User Manual

20
:: Tuning Tips
Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means
that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.
Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.
Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the front. Negative camber means
that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber, where the top of the tire is
leaning out, is not recommended. Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.
Front Camber Links:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ball end height on the tower.
Shortening the camber link (or lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering response.
Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the front more roll and slower steering response. Longer
camber links are typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on medium-grip loose tracks.
Ackermann:
Ackermann is the angle difference between the front wheels when they are turned to steer the car. For minimal tire
slip, it is standard for the inside wheel to steer to a greater angle than the outside wheel. If corner entry steering is too
aggressive, try increasing the Ackermann by moving the ball studs to the rearward holes. Increasing the Ackermann
will increase the angle difference of the front wheels when steered, resulting in a more stable car on corner entry.
Rear Camber Link:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ball end height on the rear chassis
brace. Shortening the camber link (or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less roll and the car will tend to
accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the rear more roll and
more cornering grip. Longer camber links are typically used on high grip tracks, while shorter links tend to work better
on medium grip loose tracks. The kit setting is the best compromise of cornering grip and acceleration.
Set The Gear Mesh:
You should be able to rock the spur gear back and forth in the teeth of the pinion gear without making the pinion gear
move. If the spur gear mesh is tight, then loosen the #25188 screw and move the motor away, then try again.
A gear mesh that is too tight or too loose will reduce power and damage the gear teeth.
Tips for Beginners:
Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get around the track without crashing. Changes
to your vehicle will not be beneficial if you can’t stay on the track. Your goal is consistent laps. Once you can get around
the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE adjustment at a time, testing it before making another
change. If the result of your adjustment is a faster lap, mark the change on the included setup sheet (make adddtional
copies of the sheet before writing on it). If your adjustment results in a slower lap, revert back to the previous setup and
try another change. When you are satisfied with your vehicle, fill in the setup sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this
as a guide for future track days or conditions. Periodically check all moving suspension parts. Suspension components
must be kept clean and move freely without binding to prevent poor and/or inconsistent handling.