User Manual

ManualsBrandsTeam Losi Racing ManualsHobbyXXX-NT Adam Drake 2 Kit

back off the adjustment nut 1/8 of a turn and retry. If you can’t hear the slipper when you punch the throttle, hold the front of the truck with the

rear wheels still on the track and give the truck full throttle. The truck should push against your hand with reasonable force and the slipper only

slipping slightly. Don't expect the slipper to make up for poor driving or set-up. You still have to use the throttle and maintain the shocks and

chassis. The slipper will help you drive more comfortably and help accelerate of corners and land jumps.

CHANGING THE GEARS on your XXX-NT AD2 is a very simple process. There are several different clutch bell gears available for the

XXX-NT AD2. When changing to a different size gear, you will need to re-set the gear mesh. To adjust the gear mesh, loosen the four screws

securing the engine mounts to the chassis and reposition the engine. When the desired gear mesh is achieved, tighten all four screws. In

conditions where more torque (bottom end) is desired, the 18-tooth clutch bell can be replaced with the 17-tooth clutch bell. The gear mesh will

need to be readjusted by loosening the four screws that hold the engine in place as mentioned above.

FUEL for nitro engines is available at most hobby shops. It is highly recommended that you use a fuel specially blended for R/C cars like

White Lightneing or Blue Thunder. Avoid using model airplane/helicopter fuel as the quantity and type of lubricant may not meet the extreme

needs of R/C cars. We have found that no more than 20% nitro content is needed for optimum performance.

THE MOST SENSITIVE ADJUSTMENTS, and the most used by the Team Losi race team, are the number of washers under the front camber

link ball studs and the anti-squat. See these two sections and try to familiarize yourself with the way that these adjustments affect the handling

of the XXX-NT AD2.

CAMBER, We suggest one to two degrees of negative camber at the front measured at ride height. A general rule of thumb is that more

negative camber will help the truck go through bumps in turns a little more consistently. Less negative camber can make the truck respond

quicker on some tracks with hard packed surfaces.

The rear camber is used to help the truck drive through bumps in corners a little better. Generally, run between 0 and 1 degrees of negative

camber at ride height. More negative camber will make the truck drive through bumps better, but you will usually lose a little straight line rear

traction.

FRONT TOE-IN AND TOE-OUT is fully adjustable by changing the length of the tie rods. When adjusting toe-in, be sure to adjust both

tie rods equally so that the steering balance from left to right will remain the same. Toe-out will make the truck turn into the corner faster, but can

cause oversteer. It can also make the truck feel “wandery” exiting corners and cause the truck to hook.

Toe-in makes the truck a little easier to drive, and will make the truck more neutral feeling and more stable exiting corners. We almost always

run about one degree of toe-in on the XXX-NT AD2.

FRONT RIDE HEIGHT is an adjustment that can change the way a truck jumps, turns and goes through the bumps. This is an adjustment

that can vary from track to track. You should try raising and lowering the front ride height to get a feel for what it does to the handling of the

truck. The front ride height should initially be set so that the arms are level at ride height. To set the ride height, drop the front of the truck from

about 2-3 inches above the table. Lightly "work" the front suspension up and down. This will "settle" the front suspension at its natural ride

height. Working the suspension becomes important as the parts start to get dirty and worn.

Once the suspension has settled, the arms should be level. If the front end is either too high, or too low, adjust the shock nuts accordingly

and check the ride height again as described above. Continue this procedure until the front ride height is adjusted to the desired location.

FRONT CARRIER CAMBER LOCATION is another adjustment that is almost always run in the middle location. This location keeps the

truck flatter (less roll). The outside location also helps the truck stay tighter in turns with a more precise steering feel. Moving the link to the

inner hole will make the steering react slightly slower. The advantage to the inner hole is that it can increase on-power steering and help the

truck get through bumps better.

WASHERS UNDER THE FRONT CAMBER LINK BALL STUD can be added or removed. This is one of the most important adjustments

on the XXX-NT AD2 Truck. You should get a feel for how the number of washers affects the handling. Adding washers will make the truck more

stable and keep the front end flatter. Removing washers will make the steering more aggressive. This can be good in some conditions, but can

also make the truck difficult to drive in others. The best all-around adjustment is with one washer as per the assembly instructions.

FRONT CAMBER LINK LENGTH is another adjustment that is difficult to make a generic statement because it can have slightly

different results on various conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment will usually impact the handling of the XXX-NT AD2.

A longer front camber link will usually make the truck feel stiffer. This will help keep the truck flatter with less roll, but can make the truck handle

worse in bumpy conditions. A shorter front camber link will result in more front end roll. This will increase high-speed steering and make the

truck better in bumps. Too short of a front link may make the truck feel twitchy or "wandery" meaning that it may be difficult to drive straight

at high speed.

FRONT SHOCK TOWER LOCATIONS can be adjusted easily by simply moving top of the shock to another hole in the shock tower. The

standard location (second hole out in the tower) works best on most tracks. Moving the top of the shock out one hole will result in an increase

in steering and the truck will react quicker. Moving the top of the shock to the inside hole in the tower will slow the steering response time and

make the truck smoother in bumps.

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