Installation Instructions

PERFECTION SHINGLE SIDING
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
PREPARING FOR THE INITIAL COURSE
WHEN INSTALLING TRADITIONAL SHINGLES:
Installs best over a solid substrate, 7/16” or better, with nail holding strength
(ex. Plywood, Oriented Strand Board.)
• The use of a plastic or woven house wrap is recommended.
FOR ACCESSORY ITEMS:
¾ inch minimum pocket width opening for the J-Channel, Inside, and Outside Corners are
required.
• It is not recommended to be installed over existing real cedar siding.
Note: Painting or staining panels will void warranty. Not intended as a roof covering. Vertical
application only.
PRODUCT DEFINITION
SPACING THE PANELS AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURE
RANGES
This product, like any other outdoor plastics, expands and contracts with the change in
temperature. Use the indicator provided on the panel as a guide for the amount of space
between panels at the time of installation. These temperature
indicator lines should be used as follows:
INSTALLING THE INITIAL COURSE
1. Install the Corner Post, Molded Corner Pieces, or J-Channel vertically on the wall. Pocket
width must be a minimum of ¾ inches.
2. Install the Starter Strip on the bottom edge of the wall, making sure that it is level.
(J-Channel alone can be usedalong the bottom as a starter but ¼ inch gap must be
allowed for expansion and contraction.) See gures 4, 5,and 6 below for alternate starting
possibilities.
Figure 4: Starter Strip Figure 5: Starter Strip Figure 6: Starter Strip
and J-Channel and Drip Edge (Stucco)
3. After Starter Strip is straight and level on the wall:
• Place one full panel inside the left J-Channel or Corner Post.
• Mark the very top of the panel with a pencil as shown.
• Repeat this step on the opposite side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line from these two points.
This is your guide for hanging the rst course of panel!
4. To install the rst shingle panel:
Cut a straight edge on the left side of the panel so it will t into the J-Channel or Corner
Post. See gure 8.
Hook the bottom lock into the starter
strip and slide into the J-Channel or
Corner Post.
Leave ¼ inch space between the cut panel
edge and the J-Channel or Corner Post.
See gure 9.
The installation methods in this guide have proven successful in attaining optimum
performance for the shingle siding. However these methods should not be construed as the
only possible way to install the siding. Field conditions and construction characteristics
may dictate the use of differing installation methods and techniques. It is always within the
sole discretion and responsibility of the independent siding installer to determine the best
methods and techniques to use.
1
PREPARING FOR THE INITIAL COURSE
PRODUCT DEFINITION
Figure 1
Figure 2
The installation methods in this guide have proven successful in attaining optimum performance for the
shake siding. However these methods should not be construed as the only possible way to install the
siding. Field conditions and construction characteristics may dictate the use of differing installations
methods and techniques. It is always within the sole discretion and responsibility of the independent
siding installer to determine the best methods and techniques to use.
WHEN INSTALLING TRADITIONAL SHAKES:
The panels may be installed at any temperature above 35°F.
Installs best over a solid substrate, 7/16 or better, with nail holding strength (ex. Plywood, Oriented Strand Board.)
The Traditional Shake Siding is made from polypropylene which generally will not be an exact color match when installed
with Polyvinyl Chloride Siding (PVC) and accessories of the same color name. Gloss and grain also will have an effect on
how close one color of the Shake Siding will match with the same color made in PVC siding and accessories. To ensure
customer satisfaction with color, it is always best to compare these materials on a small section of the wall prior to installing
on the entire house.
The use of a plastic or woven house wrap is recommended.
FOR ACCESSORY ITEMS:
¾ inch minimum pocket width opening for the J-Channel, Inside, and Outside Corners is required.
It is not recommended to be installed over existing real cedar siding.
Note: Painting or staining panels will void warranty. Not intended as a roof covering. Vertical application only.
Reserved for customer logo
PERFECTION SHINGLE SIDING
1
PREPARING FOR THE INITIAL COURSE
PRODUCT DEFINITION
Figure 1
Figure 2
The installation methods in this guide have proven successful in attaining optimum performance for the
shake siding. However these methods should not be construed as the only possible way to install the
siding. Field conditions and construction characteristics may dictate the use of differing installations
methods and techniques. It is always within the sole discretion and responsibility of the independent
siding installer to determine the best methods and techniques to use.
WHEN INSTALLING TRADITIONAL SHAKES:
The panels may be installed at any temperature above 35°F.
Installs best over a solid substrate, 7/16 or better, with nail holding strength (ex. Plywood, Oriented Strand Board.)
The Traditional Shake Siding is made from polypropylene which generally will not be an exact color match when installed
with Polyvinyl Chloride Siding (PVC) and accessories of the same color name. Gloss and grain also will have an effect on
how close one color of the Shake Siding will match with the same color made in PVC siding and accessories. To ensure
customer satisfaction with color, it is always best to compare these materials on a small section of the wall prior to installing
on the entire house.
The use of a plastic or woven house wrap is recommended.
FOR ACCESSORY ITEMS:
¾ inch minimum pocket width opening for the J-Channel, Inside, and Outside Corners is required.
It is not recommended to be installed over existing real cedar siding.
Note: Painting or staining panels will void warranty. Not intended as a roof covering. Vertical application only.
Reserved for customer logo
The installation methods in this guide have proven successful in attaining optimum performance for the shingle
siding. However these methods should not be construed as the only possible way to install the siding. Field conditions
and construction characteristics may dictate the use of differing installation methods and techniques. It is always
within the sole discretion and responsibility of the independent siding installer to determine the best methods and
techniques to use.
WHEN INSTALLING TRADITIONAL SHINGLES:
The panels install best when installed at any temperature above 35ºF.
Bottom Shingle
Top Shingle
The use of a house wrap is recommended.
2
SPACING THE PANELS AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURE RANGES
This product, like any other outdoor plastics, expands and
contracts with the change in temperature. Use the indicator
provided on the panel as a guide for the amount of space
between panels at the time of installation. These temperature
indicator lines should be used as follows:
A
mbient Temperature
Range in °F:
Position on the Temperature
Gauge:
100°F - 91°F On the 100°F Line
90°F - 76°F Between the 65° & 100° F Lines
75°F - 56 °F On the 65° F Line
55°F - 41°F Between the 35° & 65° F Lines
40°F - 35°F On the 35° F Lines
INSTALLING THE INITIAL COURSE
1. Install the Corner Post, Molded Corner Pieces, or J-Channel vertically on the wall. Pocket width must be a
minimum of ¾ inches.
2. Install the Starter Strip on the bottom edge of the wall, making sure that it is level. (J-Channel alone can be used
along the bottom as a starter but ¼ inch gap must be allowed for expansion and contraction.) See figures 4, 5,
and 6 below for alternate starting possibilities.
3. After Starter Strip is straight and level on the wall:
Place one full panel inside the left J-Channel or Corner Post.
Mark the very top of the panel with a pencil as shown.
Repeat this step on the opposite side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line from these two points. This is your guide for
hanging the first course of panel!
Figure 3
Figure 4: Starter Strip Figure 5: Starter Strip
and J-Channel
Figure 6: Starter Strip
and Drip Edge (Stucco)
Figure 7
2
SPACING THE PANELS AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURE RANGES
This product, like any other outdoor plastics, expands and
contracts with the change in temperature. Use the indicator
provided on the panel as a guide for the amount of space
between panels at the time of installation. These temperature
indicator lines should be used as follows:
A
mbient Temperature
Range in °F:
Position on the Temperature
Gauge:
100°F - 91°F On the 100°F Line
90°F - 76°F Between the 65° & 100° F Lines
75°F - 56 °F On the 65° F Line
55°F - 41°F Between the 35° & 65° F Lines
40°F - 35°F On the 35° F Lines
INSTALLING THE INITIAL COURSE
1. Install the Corner Post, Molded Corner Pieces, or J-Channel vertically on the wall. Pocket width must be a
minimum of ¾ inches.
2. Install the Starter Strip on the bottom edge of the wall, making sure that it is level. (J-Channel alone can be used
along the bottom as a starter but ¼ inch gap must be allowed for expansion and contraction.) See figures 4, 5,
and 6 below for alternate starting possibilities.
3. After Starter Strip is straight and level on the wall:
Place one full panel inside the left J-Channel or Corner Post.
Mark the very top of the panel with a pencil as shown.
Repeat this step on the opposite side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line from these two points. This is your guide for
hanging the first course of panel!
Figure 3
Figure 4: Starter Strip Figure 5: Starter Strip
and J-Channel
Figure 6: Starter Strip
and Drip Edge (Stucco)
Figure 7
2
SPACING THE PANELS AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURE RANGES
This product, like any other outdoor plastics, expands and
contracts with the change in temperature. Use the indicator
provided on the panel as a guide for the amount of space
between panels at the time of installation. These temperature
indicator lines should be used as follows:
A
mbient Temperature
Range in °F:
Position on the Temperature
Gauge:
100°F - 91°F On the 100°F Line
90°F - 76°F Between the 65° & 100° F Lines
75°F - 56 °F On the 65° F Line
55°F - 41°F Between the 35° & 65° F Lines
40°F - 35°F On the 35° F Lines
INSTALLING THE INITIAL COURSE
1. Install the Corner Post, Molded Corner Pieces, or J-Channel vertically on the wall. Pocket width must be a
minimum of ¾ inches.
2. Install the Starter Strip on the bottom edge of the wall, making sure that it is level. (J-Channel alone can be used
along the bottom as a starter but ¼ inch gap must be allowed for expansion and contraction.) See figures 4, 5,
and 6 below for alternate starting possibilities.
3. After Starter Strip is straight and level on the wall:
Place one full panel inside the left J-Channel or Corner Post.
Mark the very top of the panel with a pencil as shown.
Repeat this step on the opposite side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line from these two points. This is your guide for
hanging the first course of panel!
Figure 3
Figure 4: Starter Strip Figure 5: Starter Strip
and J-Channel
Figure 6: Starter Strip
and Drip Edge (Stucco)
Figure 7
2
SPACING THE PANELS AT VARIOUS TEMPERATURE RANGES
This product, like any other outdoor plastics, expands and
contracts with the change in temperature. Use the indicator
provided on the panel as a guide for the amount of space
between panels at the time of installation. These temperature
indicator lines should be used as follows:
A
mbient Temperature
Range in °F:
Position on the Temperature
Gauge:
100°F - 91°F On the 100°F Line
90°F - 76°F Between the 65° & 100° F Lines
75°F - 56 °F On the 65° F Line
55°F - 41°F Between the 35° & 65° F Lines
40°F - 35°F On the 35° F Lines
INSTALLING THE INITIAL COURSE
1. Install the Corner Post, Molded Corner Pieces, or J-Channel vertically on the wall. Pocket width must be a
minimum of ¾ inches.
2. Install the Starter Strip on the bottom edge of the wall, making sure that it is level. (J-Channel alone can be used
along the bottom as a starter but ¼ inch gap must be allowed for expansion and contraction.) See figures 4, 5,
and 6 below for alternate starting possibilities.
3. After Starter Strip is straight and level on the wall:
Place one full panel inside the left J-Channel or Corner Post.
Mark the very top of the panel with a pencil as shown.
Repeat this step on the opposite side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line from these two points. This is your guide for
hanging the first course of panel!
Figure 3
Figure 4: Starter Strip Figure 5: Starter Strip
and J-Channel
Figure 6: Starter Strip
and Drip Edge (Stucco)
Figure 7
Figure 7
Figure 8 Figure 9
¼” space between Shingle Panel
inserted into J-Channel
NAILING PATTERN
The diagram below is a visual description of how nails should be placed on each panel. Do
not place a nail in the far right position until the overlapping panel is positioned correctly.
Please see circle diagram below. We recommend a nail every 8-12 inches.
VERY IMPORTANT
All nails along the nailing hem must be driven in until there is an 1/8 inch to 1/16 inch
space, which will allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and contraction.
See gure 11.
• The nails must be centered in every nail slot as shown in Figure 12.
Every panel must have a nail through the center nail hole to eliminate the panel possibly
shifting left or right during normal expansion and contraction.
5. Install the 2nd panel by hooking it into the starter strip and then sliding it over into the
side locking tab. If you are having problems with the side lock, please see: “Tips for
Installing Side Lock Successfully” on the right of this page.
TIP: When installing full
length panels, rst put in on
an angle then apply even
pressure along the top and
bottom locks in an up and
over motion.
6. Position the panel so that it is positioned properly with the temperature indicator correlat-
ing with the temperature at installation. If you are having problems with the temperature
gauge, please see: “Spacing the Panel at Various Temperature Ranges” on Page 1.
7. Once the panel has the correct gap, (correlating with the air temperature at installation),
nail the panel on the wall using the same nailing pattern as discussed in “Nailing Pattern.
For help in nailing the panel onto the wall, please see “Nailing Pattern” at the top of the
page.
8. To complete the installation of the 1st course, repeat steps 4 – 7.
INSTALLING THE SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT COURSES
9. To install the second and subsequent courses, it is very important that you make sure:
A. When applying the rst starter piece for each
course, the bottom lock is fully engaged with
the panel below. (Use gure 14 as your guide).
B. That a random length piece is used for every
starter. (See gure 15.)
WHAT IS MEANT BY “RANDOM LENGTH”?
Minimize the use of similarly cut lengths
of starter pieces. Every starter course
should be a different length than previous
course to avoid a repeat pattern.
TIP: Do not use the scrap piece cut from
the end of the last course as your starter.
If this is done, a pattern will start to occur
on the 4th or 5th course. This panel should
not be hung in the same manner as vinyl siding.
Remember to cut a random length piece between 6”-46” Every Time!
10. After meeting the criteria stated in #9 above, the starter panel should be nailed with the
same nailing pattern shown in gure 10 except:
• You must drill a 3/16 inch hole in the center of the top nail hem. (See gure 16 and 17).
11. Place a nail in the hole just drilled into the middle of the panel.
Continue installing using steps 9-10!
TIP: To make sure panels are hanging straight on the wall:
Every 3 – 4 courses, measure up 14 ¼ inches from the top of the panel on either side of
the wall.
• Stretch a chalk line.
• This will be the guide for the next course.
TIPS FOR INSTALLING SIDE LOCK SUCCESSFULLY
When installing panels on the wall, it is important to check each seam making sure that
the side lock has been fully engaged. It is a good rule of thumb to note if there is any gap
at the seam. If there is a gap, a lock probably has been missed. A and B below are two very
important ways to check if the side lock has been fully engaged.
A. Once you have inserted the panels together,
just before nailing into place:
Pull back the right top side of the panel.
The left locking tabs should move with the
right if the panels are locked.
3
4. To install the first shake panel:
NAILING PATTERN
The diagram below is a visual description of how nails should be placed on each panel.
Do not place a nail in the far right position until the overlapping panel is positioned
correctly. Please see circle diagram below. We recommend a nail every 8-12
inches.
Cut a straight edge on the left side of the panel so
it will fit into the J-Channel or Corner Post. See figure
8.
Hook the bottom lock into the starter strip and slide
into the J-Channel or Corner Post.
Leave ¼ inch space between the cut panel edge
and the J-Channel or Corner Post. See figure 9.
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
¼” space between Shake Panel
inserted into J-Channel
To install the first shingle panel:
¼” space between Shingle Panel
inserted into J-Channel
Figure 10
4
All nails along the nailing hem must be driven in until there is an 1/8 inch to 1/16 inch space, which will allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction. See figure 11.
The nails must be centered in every nail slot as shown in Figure 12.
Every panel must have a nail through the center nail hole to eliminate the panel possibly shifting left or right during normal
expansion and contraction.
5. Install the 2
nd
panel by hooking it into the starter strip and then sliding it over into the side locking tab.
6. Position the panel so that it is positioned properly with the temperature indicator correlating with the
temperature at installation.
7. Once the panel has the correct gap, (correlating with the air temperature at installation), nail the panel
on the wall using the same nailing pattern as discussed in “Nailing Pattern.”
8. To complete the installation of the 1
st
course, repeat steps 4 – 7.
If you are having problems with the side lock, please see: “Tips for Installing Side Lock
Successfully” on Page 6.
If you are having problems with the temperature gauge, please see: “Spacing the Panel at Various
Temperature Ranges” on page 2.
For help in nailing the panel onto the wall, please see “Nailing Pattern on page 3.
VERY IMPORTANT
TIP:
When installing full
length panels, first
put in on an angle
then apply even
pressure along the
top and bottom locks
in an up and over
motion.
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
4
All nails along the nailing hem must be driven in until there is an 1/8 inch to 1/16 inch space, which will allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction. See figure 11.
The nails must be centered in every nail slot as shown in Figure 12.
Every panel must have a nail through the center nail hole to eliminate the panel possibly shifting left or right during normal
expansion and contraction.
5. Install the 2
nd
panel by hooking it into the starter strip and then sliding it over into the side locking tab.
6. Position the panel so that it is positioned properly with the temperature indicator correlating with the
temperature at installation.
7. Once the panel has the correct gap, (correlating with the air temperature at installation), nail the panel
on the wall using the same nailing pattern as discussed in “Nailing Pattern.”
8. To complete the installation of the 1
st
course, repeat steps 4 – 7.
If you are having problems with the side lock, please see: “Tips for Installing Side Lock
Successfully” on Page 6.
If you are having problems with the temperature gauge, please see: “Spacing the Panel at Various
Temperature Ranges” on page 2.
For help in nailing the panel onto the wall, please see “Nailing Pattern on page 3.
VERY IMPORTANT
TIP:
When installing full
length panels, first
put in on an angle
then apply even
pressure along the
top and bottom locks
in an up and over
motion.
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 11 Figure 12
4
All nails along the nailing hem must be driven in until there is an 1/8 inch to 1/16 inch space, which will allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction. See figure 11.
The nails must be centered in every nail slot as shown in Figure 12.
Every panel must have a nail through the center nail hole to eliminate the panel possibly shifting left or right during normal
expansion and contraction.
5. Install the 2
nd
panel by hooking it into the starter strip and then sliding it over into the side locking tab.
6. Position the panel so that it is positioned properly with the temperature indicator correlating with the
temperature at installation.
7. Once the panel has the correct gap, (correlating with the air temperature at installation), nail the panel
on the wall using the same nailing pattern as discussed in “Nailing Pattern.”
8. To complete the installation of the 1
st
course, repeat steps 4 – 7.
If you are having problems with the side lock, please see: “Tips for Installing Side Lock
Successfully” on Page 6.
If you are having problems with the temperature gauge, please see: “Spacing the Panel at Various
Temperature Ranges” on page 2.
For help in nailing the panel onto the wall, please see “Nailing Pattern on page 3.
VERY IMPORTANT
TIP:
When installing full
length panels, first
put in on an angle
then apply even
pressure along the
top and bottom locks
in an up and over
motion.
Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
5
B. That a random length piece is used for every starter.
(See figure 15.)
Do not use the scrap piece cut from the end of the last course as your
starter. If this is done, a pattern will start to occur on the 4
th
or 5
th
course.
This panel should not be hung in the same manner as vinyl siding.
Remember to cut a random length piece between 6”-46” Every Time!
WHAT IS MEANT BY “RANDOM LENGTH”?
Minimize the use of similarly cut lengths of starter pieces.
Every starter course should be a different length than
previous course to avoid a repeat pattern.
Tip:
Make sure 1¼ (one and one quarter) inch of the lock is
remaining for the next panel to use. (See figure 14).
A. When applying the first starter piece for each course, the
bottom lock is fully engaged with the panel below. (Use figure
14 as your guide).
9. To install the second and subsequent courses, it is very important that you make sure:
INSTALLING THE SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT COURSES
10. After meeting the criteria stated in #9 above, the starter panel should be nailed with the
same nailing pattern shown in figure 10 except:
You must drill a 3/16 inch hole in the center of the top nail hem. (See figure 16 and 17).
Figure 14
Figure 15
1 ¼”
Figure 17Figure 16
5
B. That a random length piece is used for every starter.
(See figure 15.)
Do not use the scrap piece cut from the end of the last course as your
starter. If this is done, a pattern will start to occur on the 4
th
or 5
th
course.
This panel should not be hung in the same manner as vinyl siding.
Remember to cut a random length piece between 6”-46” Every Time!
WHAT IS MEANT BY “RANDOM LENGTH”?
Minimize the use of similarly cut lengths of starter pieces.
Every starter course should be a different length than
previous course to avoid a repeat pattern.
Tip:
Make sure 1¼ (one and one quarter) inch of the lock is
remaining for the next panel to use. (See figure 14).
A. When applying the first starter piece for each course, the
bottom lock is fully engaged with the panel below. (Use figure
14 as your guide).
9. To install the second and subsequent courses, it is very important that you make sure:
INSTALLING THE SECOND AND SUBSEQUENT COURSES
10. After meeting the criteria stated in #9 above, the starter panel should be nailed with the
same nailing pattern shown in figure 10 except:
You must drill a 3/16 inch hole in the center of the top nail hem. (See figure 16 and 17).
Figure 14
Figure 15
1 ¼”
Figure 17Figure 16
Figure 16 Figure 17
6
To make sure panels are hanging straight on the wall:
Every 3 – 4 courses, measure up 14 ¼ inches from the top of the panel on either
side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line.
This will be the guide for the next course.
Tip:
11. Place a nail in the hole just drilled into the middle of the panel. Continue installing
using steps 9-10!
Figure 18
Figure 19
TIPS FOR INSTALLING SIDE LOCK SUCCESSFULLY
When installing panels on the wall, it is important to check each seam making sure that the side lock has been fully engaged. It is
a good rule of thumb to note if there is any gap at the seam. If there is a gap, a lock probably has been missed. A and B below
are two very important ways to check if the side lock has been fully engaged.
A. Once you have inserted the panels together,
just before nailing into place:
Pull back the right top side of the panel. The left
locking tabs should move with the right if the panels
are locked.
B. Next, peek your head around to the left side of the
joint or seam.
Use your fingers or a flat pry bar to peek into the seam.
If you don’t see the bottom lock, or any large gap on the
bottom shake, it has been successfully locked. See figure
21.
Figure 22 below is an example of what the seam should
not look like. Notice the large gap, the bottom lock has
been missed.
Figure 21
Figure 22
This locking technique should be used on
every seam. It is a quick and easy way
to check the side locks!!
Tip:
Figure 20
bottom shingle, it has been successfully locked. See gure
Figure 18
Figure 10
Figure 19
6
To make sure panels are hanging straight on the wall:
Every 3 – 4 courses, measure up 14 ¼ inches from the top of the panel on either
side of the wall.
Stretch a chalk line.
This will be the guide for the next course.
Tip:
11. Place a nail in the hole just drilled into the middle of the panel. Continue installing
using steps 9-10!
Figure 18
Figure 19
TIPS FOR INSTALLING SIDE LOCK SUCCESSFULLY
When installing panels on the wall, it is important to check each seam making sure that the side lock has been fully engaged. It is
a good rule of thumb to note if there is any gap at the seam. If there is a gap, a lock probably has been missed. A and B below
are two very important ways to check if the side lock has been fully engaged.
A. Once you have inserted the panels together,
just before nailing into place:
Pull back the right top side of the panel. The left
locking tabs should move with the right if the panels
are locked.
B. Next, peek your head around to the left side of the
joint or seam.
Use your fingers or a flat pry bar to peek into the seam.
If you don’t see the bottom lock, or any large gap on the
bottom shake, it has been successfully locked. See figure
21.
Figure 22 below is an example of what the seam should
not look like. Notice the large gap, the bottom lock has
been missed.
Figure 21
Figure 22
This locking technique should be used on
every seam. It is a quick and easy way
to check the side locks!!
Tip:
Figure 20
bottom shingle, it has been successfully locked. See gure
Figure 20
TOP LOCK NAIL HEM
CENTER
NAIL HOLE
TEMPERATURE
GAUGE
TOP SHINGLE
FEMALE
SIDE LOCK
MALE
SIDE LOCK
MALE
SIDE LOCK
FEMALE
SIDE LOCK
BOTTOM
LOCK
FRONT
BACK
TEMPERATURE
GAUGE
BOTTOM
SHINGLE
J-CHANNEL
STARTER STRIP
NAIL NAIL NAIL NAIL
STARTER STRIP
NAIL
CORRECT SPACING
BETWEEN NAIL & FRONT
PANEL: 1/16” – 1/8
ADDITIONAL LOCKING TIP
INSTALL PANELS STARTING IN ON AN ANGLE
AT THE LOCK AND SLIDING UP AND OVER.
MEASURE TO THE
END OF LOCK THEN
SUBTRACT 1 1/2”
MEASURE FROM
INSIDE J-CHANNEL
1 1/4”
1 1/4”
AT 18” OF LENGTH,
DRILL A 3/16” HOLE
TAKE PANEL LENGTH AND DIVIDE IN HALF. PANEL
LENGTH IS FROM CUT END TO END OF GRAIN. IN
THIS EXAMPLE THE PANEL IS 36” LONG.
MEASURE FROM:
CUT END
MIDDLE
OF PANEL
MEASURE TO:
END OF GRAIN
CHALK LINE
CHALK LINE
14 1/4”
Figure 14
Figure 15

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