Installation Guide

2-sided adhesion
allows bond to stretch freely
Polyethylene Bond
Breaker Tape
SEALANT APPLICATION:
Prior to use, confirm that sealant is within its shelf life.
Ensure the use of proper tools for a consistent and uniform
application.
To make clean-up easier and force product to lie in a straight
line, tape off areas adjacent to joints and around the joint area
to prevent sealant from attaching to unintended surfaces.
To function properly, a sealant must not be bonded on three
sides (only the joint sides, never the base) or applied too thick.
Sealant bonded on three sides can fail adhesively, cohesively
or both (see Failures).
Read instructions on caulk cartridge prior to use. Caulk
cartridge should have a nozzle of proper size, and be cut on a
slant and the foil seal needs to be punctured before placing
cartridge in cartridge gun.
Extrude product into joint with steady, consistent pressure in a
rounded bead form – free of ridges, wrinkles, sags, air pockets
and embedded impurities.
Use color coated nails if recommended by the fiber cement
board manufacturer.
Do not fill nail holes; do not tool, smear, feather or wipe
sealant to a thin consistency or film outside of joint or masked
area as these films may discolor (see troubleshooting).
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
IDEAL BEAD:
Forms an hourglass shape twice as wide as it is deep, allowing
the bead to stretch without tearing or pulling away from the
substrate. The sealant should be no thicker than ½ inch and
not thinner than inch.
We recommend that consumers NOT use caulk in any electrical
application.
TOOLING:
It is NOT recommended to tool sealant into thin films unless
they will be painted. It is best if the sealant stays in bead form.
If you decide to tool the sealant, joints should be neatly tooled
as soon as possible before sealant forms a skin layer.
Tooling can be done wet or dry, using various techniques,
depending on the sealant type and project.
As stated in sealant application above, taping the area prior to
application is recommended (unless sealant will be painted
over) to avoid spreading sealant too thin, which may cause
bleaching or discoloring of the sealant (see troubleshooting).
Tooling is typically done to eliminate air pockets which may
expand and rupture during hot weather or voids. It also
ensures good substrate wetting for optimum adhesion to gain
a low stress area (which can prevent the sealant from pulling
away from the sides of the joint).
•
•
•
•
•
TO INSTALL:
Use blunt tool when inserting a closed cell backer rod to avoid
puncturing it (prior to sealant installation), as this will cause
bubbling in sealant.
Length-wise stretching, twisting or braiding of the backer rod
should be avoided.
•
•
CLEANUP:
Once sealant is dry to touch and does not transfer, remove tape if applied. Uncured polymer-based
sealants may be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol or acetone (mineral spirits or similar solvent for
translucent). Uncured water-based sealants will clean-up easily with water and a damp rag. Sealants are
difficult to remove once cured, as they are designed to be permanent – excess sealant must be cut or
scraped away. Follow solvent vendor’s precautions when using solvents.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
Joints that are too narrow will push the sealant out during
substrate expansion or split from too much expansion during
substrate contraction which may cause leaks. Wide joints can
handle more movement but need backing material to form a
seal not thicker than ½ inch with large attachment areas on
each substrate.
APPLYING IN LOW TEMPERATURES:
The cold air usually lacks moisture and may retard the cure for
some sealants.
When substrates are below 0°C (32°F), they are always subject
to frost. Even when melted, water may remain and there is the
possibility of frost occurring, poorly bonding the sealant to the
substrate. Warm sealant to 60-80°F before use, so the sealant is
not too thick to extrude.
APPLYING IN HIGH TEMPERATURES:
Three-sided adhesion will cause sealant to be severely compressed
at the high end of the temperature range (substrate expansion),
which can cause the sealant to “pop” out of the joint.
Improper substrate preparation is the most common mode of
sealant failure (adhesion failure).
If the bead is too narrow, there may be insufficient material to
accommodate the joint movement and the sealant will split
(cohesive joint failure). Under-filling of joints normally leads to
adhesion loss.
•
•
Sales: 1.800.669.4583 /
Visit www.TITEBOND.com for the most up-to-date product information.
CURE TIME AND PAINTABILITY:
Make sure to vary your wait time based on the humidity level, as reactive sealants will cure slower when
it is cooler and less humid, and water-based sealants will dry slower when it is cooler or more humid.
Once a skin is formed it can be tested for durability and may be painted over at this time. Check specific
product information for preferred type of paint, how long to wait after application before applying
paint, and if compatibility tests are recommended for paint (other than water-based latex).