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RC-34 INSTRUCTION MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Holy smoke, what a name for an airplane!

The name was derived from comments

made by other modelers when they saw

this delta fly for the first time. From a

marketing standpoint, we're very happy

that the standard comment was not "Holy

Cow"!

The delta that we are presenting in this kit

was designed by Hal Parent! and it has a

long and successful history. The design is

exceptionally easy to fly due to its in-

herent stability and will accept a fairly

broad range of engine sizes (2-cycle) and

still remain flyable and fun. The design

itself is the essence of simplicity. We feel

that it is entirely possible to start con-

struction on a Monday evening and have it

ready to fly by the following Saturday. It

may well be the perfect "other" airplane.

The "H.S. 40" has been test-flown off of grass fields as

well as asphalt with uniformly good results. When

powered with one of today's strong-running .40 engines

(Enya CX, O.S., etc.), the take-off is short and to the point.

We have test-flown the airplane with engines as small as

.25 (an 0.S. FSR) and it still flys quite nicely. Those of you

who may be considering the installation of a .60 engine

might first strongly consider one of the .40's or .45's

mentioned earlier. A .60 is going to give you some balan-

cing problems which might well result in a rather heavy

airplane.

The radio installation in your H.S. 40 is straight-forward

and the radio/tank compartment is roomy enough for all

but the largest of servos. As with most R/C models, the

radio installation should be made with achieving the

correct Center of Gravity as the goal. If your battery

pack, for instance, has to be located at the rear of the

radio compartment in order to achieve the correct C.G.,

that's fine and superior to having to add lead. The in-

stallation shown on the plans is typical of our pro-

totypes; yours may be different due to varying radio com-

ponents and engine weights.

Flying your H.S. 40 should prove to be a delight. There

just aren't many maneuvers that this design is not

capable of. The possible exception might be those

maneuvers which require some rudder.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

TOP FLITE MODELS, INC. does not recommend the

Holy Smoke 40 as a first R/C powered aircraft. However, if

you are a beginner to the sport of R/C flying, we would

urge you to seek and use experienced assistance in con-

structing and flying this airplane. Again, if you are new

to this hobby, consider this:

Flying this or any other radio-controlled model aircraft is

a PRIVILEGE and not a RIGHT and this privilege begins

with the utmost safety considerations to others and

yourself as well. An R/C model airplane in inexperienced

hands has the potential of doing serious personal or pro-

perty damage. These safety considerations start at the

building board by following instructions, seeking com-

petent help when you are confused and avoiding short-

cuts. These considerations have to be carried over to the

flying field where safety must come first and limitations

TOP FLITE MODELS INC.

1901 NORTH NARRAGANSETT AVENUE • CHICAGO. ILLINOIS 60639

Summary of content (8 pages)

PAGE 1
RC-34 INSTRUCTION MANUAL INTRODUCTION Holy smoke, what a name for an airplane! The name was derived from comments made by other modelers when they saw this delta fly for the first time. From a marketing standpoint, we're very happy that the standard comment was not "Holy Cow"! The delta that we are presenting in this kit was designed by Hal Parent! and it has a long and successful history.
PAGE 2
average workshop—are a must to do the job correctly: • Hobby knife and sharp #11 blades • Single-edge razor blades • T-pins • Sanding blocks in assorted sizes • Sandpaper in various grits • Hand-held hobby saw, such as an X-acto • Dremel tool or power drill and assorted drill bits • Straight-edge, preferably metal, at least 36" long • 90" triangle • Soldering iron, flux (silver) and solder • Carbide cut-off wheel for wire cutting • Small power jig-saw, such as a Moto-Saw • Razor plane • Tapes, such as maski
PAGE 3
outer ends of the crutch assembly should be in contact with the inner surfaces of the two W-5's. It may be necessary to trim a little here or there to achieve the proper fit. If so, do it now. With the crutch still in place but not yet glued, turn your attention to the slots provided in the ends of each rib. Locate the 3/32" x 7/8" x 36" bottom trailing edge balsa piece provided in your kit and carefully slide it into place in the rear rib slots.
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7. The first piece of planking that you are going to at- 13. From your parts bag, locate the four 4-40 blind mountach will be the rear one which is one-piece from tip ting nuts and their corresponding 1-1/4" motor mount to tip and flush with the bottom 3/32" x 7/8" balsa strip bolts. Also locate the two 3/16" x 3/4" x 5-1/2" maple installed in the rib slots earlier—see cross-sections motor mounts and the two top 7/8" x 1-3/4" x 5-1/2" on plans. Glue and pin this rear piece of planking in balsa cowl blocks.
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planking in place and allow to dry. 16. Again using the X-acto knife, remove all remaining building tabs from the bottoms of all of the ribs. Accurately bevel cut the ends of the two remaining bottom spars and glue in place. 17. From your parts bag locate two 5-1/4 " long slotted hardwood landing skid mounts and two slotted landing gear uprights. Epoxy the two 5-1/4" long skid mounts in place in the cutouts provided in ribs W-2 and W-3 as shown on the plans.
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the cable/tube assembly around to the exit point shown at the aileron horn location. Use a marking pen to note the location of the tube on each rib. Repeat this operation for the opposite wing panel. Again, use the 1/8" drill bit to drill holes through the W-2's and W-3's that will allow the tubing to pass. Now use a piece of sharpened 1/8" dia. tubing to make the tubing exits, at the angles shown, through the bottom, rear planking.
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29. Locate and remove the W-8 ailerons from their diecut sheet. Glue lengths of 1/8" x 1/4 "balsa on each of their ends as shown for stiffening. Tape these in place to the trailing edge of the wing. Locate the 1/8" x 1-3/4 " x 20" elevator piece and likewise, reinforce each end with lengths of 1/8" x 1/4" balsa. Trim the elevator as needed to fit snuggly between the ailerons; we recommend about 1/16" spacing. Remove these surfaces, sand them smooth and set them aside for covering. 30.
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threaded end of the pushrod. With the elevator servo centered, mark the location for the required "Z-bend" in the pushrod. Make the "Z-bend", attach the output arm to the pushrod and then to the servo. 4. As shown on the plans, the throttle pushrod is plastic tubing with a 6" threaded wire and "Z-bend" at the throttle servo end and a 1" threaded stud and kwik-link at the carb end. 5. There is a gauge fixture provided on die-cut sheet RC-34-2.