Congratulations! You now own the most accurate R/C scale kit ever produced. We at Top Flite are sure that you will find this model among the most pleasant-to-build, inspiring to look at, and exciting to fly that you have constructed. It is honest to point out, however, that while this model is no more difficult —in fact is simpler than most comparable models—to make, R/C Scale models generally are not for the newcomer to this hobby.
INTRODUCTION The S. E. 5A has always been a modeler's favorite. Among all airplanes, and certainly of those which were born and flew to fame and distinction during World War I, the S. E 5 was one of the best and most attractive Not the least of the reasons for its great appeal to modelers is the great suitability of its design as a flying model Let's explain this.
After removing any pins from the crutch that will get in the way, glue side pieces F-l and F-2 to the crutch. Use the "TRI-AIDS" provided to insure the sides are truly vertical Glue the 1/4" sq.
File notches into the rear cabane-strut wire and attach to the hardwood blocks in the crutch, using metal clips and woodscrews provided. Glue the shaped tail block in position on the fuselage, also formers F-17, F-16, F-15, F-14 and 14A, F-13, F-ll and 11A, F-8 and F-4. Formers 8, 11 and 13 must be glued at correct angles (see side view). Take care here, as the fit of the cut panels F-23 to F-27 depends on the accuracy of the angles on the formers. 8. Remove stabilizer from plan.
13. Cut proper size hole in 1/4" phenolic engine plate for the engine you are going to use. Drill holes to suit and mount the engine. Fit the plate up to the fuselage (remove the needle valve temporarily if necessary) and when you have it fitting snugly down on the mounts, drill through plate and mounts simultaneously to insure accuracy for the mounting screws. Screw plate in place using the 3/4" woodscrews provided. Slide fuel tank in position and connect to engine with fuel tubing. 14.
of formers F-14A • F-17. All stringers are to be glued in "diamond-fashion " This was done to get sharp impressions on the covering, like the real S. E 5A had, and yet have stringers big enough not to warp after covering Glue in the rest of the stringers, observing that they are alternately long and short (see Figure 6).
Specific details cannot be given for these pushrods, because as with the radio and engine, etc., requirements and equipment will differ from one builder to another. Whichever layout is chosen it will be found that there is ample space inside the model to carry out any desired positioning. However, we repeat to newcomers that the advice of an experienced R/C modeler will be invaluable. 23. Break up and discard false former F-12 from the fuselage. Smear a coat of glue over the planking joint so exposed.
31. Remove wing from plan Slide four W-14 ribs over projecting ends of wing, spars, getting them in approximately correct position in the wing center panel As with the panel just made, weight down the spars with 3/16" shim under them Slide ribs to exact position and glue See Figure 9 and 10. Glue in W-13 and 1/2" x 3/4" x 4" bass block Glue on L. E, the balsa block T. E Pieces and cap spars with 1/16" x 1/4" to support the center 1/16" sheeting, which is now glued in place.
40. All four ailerons are identical—except of course that two are left and two are right. Laminate each tip from two W-12 pieces. Construct flat on plan as in Figure 11. When dry, carve and sand L. E. and tips to correct section: see Figure 12. 41. Hinge ailerons to bottom wing—see diagram on Plan Sheet 1. The hinges should be held in place by toothpicks after drilling through wood and hinge material together.
The nylon plates (sockets) are intended to be permanently screwed in place after covering and clear doping and prior to coloring the model However, screw them in place temporarily at this time to aid in the further construction of the model. They should be removed later (see covering instructions) 47.
as a reference) When satisfied, run some Titebond into the holes at the strut-fuselage joint When this glue has dried and the top wing will not move out of alignment remove the bottom wing so that access can be had to the inside of the fuselage and liberally glue the struts to F-8. 51.
If there are places where it has not tightened properly or there are wrinkles or folds remove that panel of silk and do it over. Never expect the shrinking action of the clear dope that is applied next to pull out a bad covering job. It never does — dope will not shrink out wrinkles that water cannot remove. Clear shrinking dope can only make an excellent job of an already good one. When you have a good covering job, give the model 3 or 4 coats of clear dope. Thin the dope out.
make the rigging wires, which have to be added in any event, perform a real and important function. After all the dope on the model is completely dry, screw the lower wing in place on the fus>elage. Snap the upper wing onto the cabane struts. Snap the four interplane struts into the wings.
HOOK UPPER Z-BEND IN FIRST. FIG.
PRE-FLIGHT CHECK This is probably the most important Job to do on any model Right here is where the complete success of the maiden flight is organized A somewhat tiresome task to do properly, but hurry here can lead to an expensive crash Let's break down the pre-flight check into three units. 1. Balance 2. Alignment 3 Equipment First, balance.
PRE-FLIGHT RUN-UP Before actually committing the model to the air, it is a very wise precaution to perform a simple "flight-conditions" check by running-up the engine and checking the radio on the ground. On arrival at the field, proceed as follows: a. CHECK OPERATING FREQUENCIES OF OTHER MODELERS PRESENT! b. Remove upper cowl. Fill fuel tank and start engine. Adjust to correct high—RPM. c. Set engine for idling—RPM. Stop engine.
