Manual

SUGGESTED SUPPLIES AND TOOLS
2 oz. Thin CA
2 oz. Medium CA
2.5 oz. 5-Minute Epoxy
2.5 oz. 30-Minute Epoxy
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”,
13/64”, 1/4”, 5/64" & 17/64”
Sealing Iron (Top Flite)
Heat Gun (Top Flite)
Hobby Saw (X-Acto Razor Saw or Coping
Saw)
X-Acto Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screwdrivers
T-Pins
Straightedge with measuring scale
Masking Tape (Required for construction)
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
Waxed Paper
Lightweight Balsa Filler (such as Hobbico
HobbyLite™)
1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench
Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
Dremel Moto Tool or similar (optional)
NOTE: On our workbench, we have
four 11” T-Bar sanders, equipped with
#50, #80, #150 and #220-grit
sandpaper. This setup is all that is
required for almost any sanding task.
Sanding blocks can be made from
balsa for sanding hard to reach spots.
We also keep some #320-grit wet-or-
dry sandpaper handy for finish
sanding before covering.
- 6 -
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE EARLY
IN THE BUILDING SEQUENCE
ENGINE AND MOUNT SELECTION
The recommended engine size range is as
follows:
.60 to .91 cu. in. (10cc to 15cc) 2-cycle
.90 to .120 cu. in. (15cc to 20cc) 4-cycle
The Mustang will fly well with any of the
recommended engines. The 4-cycle engines
and most .90 2-cycle engines will turn a larger
prop at lower RPM’s. This is often desirable for
scale realism. Many .60 2-cycle engines
produce about as much horsepower as the
popular .90 2-cycle engines and will fly the
Mustang fine. If you use a .60 2-cycle, a
Schnuerle ported engine is preferred.
If you will be side mounting your engine,
the 2-cycle engines will not stick out of the cowl
as much as 4-cycles will. If you mount your
engine inverted, you will need to provide ample
cooling air entry and exit areas.
This kit includes an EM60120 engine
mount that will hold most engines in the
recommended size range. The Top-Flite In-Cowl
exhaust system works very well in the Mustang
when the engine (2-Stroke) in mounted inverted.
RETRACTS
The choice whether or not to use fixed
gear or retracts is up to you. Retracts offer
good looks and great flight realism at the cost of
some expense and complication. For sport
flying and moderate competition work we
recommend you choose an air operated system
such as the Robart #605 90-degree retracts.
These offer the easiest installation and reliable
operation. Mechanical retracts could be fitted,
but the length and weight of the tire/strut
assembly would overload most servos. More
information on retracts is found in the “Tips for
Competition-Minded Modelers” section and in
the construction sequence. A Robart retractable
tail gear will work well and may be mounted to
F-10 (you must modify the lightening holes in F-
10). You must actuate the tail gear retract with
a servo or a 3/8” air cylinder and add a pull-pull
tail wheel steering system to your model.
Century Jet Models also offers a retract/strut
package that is specifially tailored for the P-51.
WHEEL SELECTION
The scale tire size is 4”. The
recommended range of tire sizes is 3-1/4” to 4”.
If you use fixed gear, you may choose to use
the smaller tires to reduce drag in the air. If you
use 3/8” offset Robostruts, they are only
available to fit up to 3-1/4” tires at the time of
this writing. Robart main wheels are very close
to scale for a P-51. A 1-1/4” tail wheel is scale
and recommended.
FLAPS
This model is designed with all the
provisions in place to include operating flaps
that are very scale. They require some
craftsmanship and time but are not very difficult
to install, if you follow the instructions. They
enhance the model’s flight characteristics and
scale appeal while causing no bad effects. No
trim correction of any kind is needed when they
are used with the recommended throws. The
flaps require one channel, a Y-harness, and two
standard or mini servos. They are highly
recommended for those who wish to install
them. More information on the use of the flaps
may be found in the flying section.