™ DE MA IN A S U WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BUILDING SEQUENCE INTRODUCTION .................................................3 PRECAUTIONS...................................................3 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE .........................3 Engine selection ................................................3 Exhaust system .................................................4 Retractable landing gear....................................4 Flaps ..................................................................
Your Top Flite Gold Edition Spitfire Mk IX is intended for scale and general sport flying including mild aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you intend to use your Spitfire for more abusive types of flying such as racing, aggressive aerobatics, or flying from rough fields, it is your responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.
larger prop at lower RPM. This is often desirable for scale realism. Many .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] 2-stroke engines produce about as much horsepower as the popular .75 [12.0cc] 2-stroke engines and will fly the Spitfire extremely well. If you use a .61 [10.0cc] 2stroke, a ball bearing, Schnuerle-ported engine is recommended. Our prototype Spit weighs 9-1/2 pounds [4310g] with all of the options, including flaps and the scale cockpit interior and was flown with an O.S. .61 cu. in. [10.0cc] engine.
instrument panel, seat and armor back rest! You don’t install the cockpit kit until you are near the end of construction and no modifications to the fuselage are required to install it. Instructions for painting, detailing and installing your Scale Cockpit Kit are included with the cockpit kit. SCALE PROPELLER AND SPINNER Although Top Flite does not offer a scale static display propeller for your Spitfire, you can modify the Top Flite scale P-51 propeller (TOPQ7906) to look like the Spitfire propeller.
❏ 3/32" [2.4mm] Wheel Collar for tailwheel ❏ Denatured or Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean up (GPMQ4302) ❏ 12 oz.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES • There are two types of screws used in this kit. Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a length. For example #6 x 3/4" [19.1mm] Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per inch and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4" [19.1mm] always the top main spar even if the wing is upside down when you are working on it. Similarly, move the former up means move the former toward the top of the fuselage even if the fuselage is upside down when you are working on it.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -8-
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -9-
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES BUILD THE STAB ❏ 1. Use your own method or the Hot Tip that follows to glue two 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheets together to make a 6" x 30" [152 x 762mm] sheet for the top and bottom stab skins. ❏ B. Tightly tape the sheets together with masking tape. Top Flite selects balsa that is intended for sheeting, though occasionally a few of these sheets may have a small nick or split near the ends.
❏ 2. While you’re making skins, make a 6" x 15" [152 x 381mm] fin skin by cutting a 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 76 x 762mm] balsa sheet in half and gluing the two pieces together. Set the skins aside for now. ❏ 8. Use the stab skin template on the plan to make the top and bottom stab skin from the 1/16" [1.6mm] sheets you glued together earlier. ❏ 9. Trim the LE of one of the stab skins so it accurately fits the stab leading edges.
BUILD THE ELEVATORS Note: The die-cut elevator bases included in the kit have one large lightening hole instead of the two smaller ones shown in the instruction manual photos. This is to reduce the weight in the tail. Start with the left elevator. ❏ ❏ 1. Position one of the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] ❏ 14. Trim the front of the ribs to accommodate the bottom stab leading edges the same way you did the top. Glue the stab leading edges to the stab core. ❏ 15.
❏ 12. Round the leading edge of the stab as shown on the cross section of the plan, blending it to the stab tips. ❏ 13. Carefully break both elevators free from the ❏❏ 9. Use a razor plane and your bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to sand the elevator and stab tips as shown on the plan. Avoid sanding the 1/16" [1.6mm] stab sheeting. Proceed slowly, removing small amounts of material at a time and inspect your work frequently. stab. Notice which elevator matches which side of the stab.
leading edges. Cut a slot in the leading edge of both elevators to accommodate the joiner wire. Hint: Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened at one end to cut the slots. DRILL A 3/32" HOLE 1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER OF HINGE SLOT ❏ 17. Drill a 3/32" [2.40mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep in the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotary tool with a 3/32" [2.40mm] drill bit or a carbide cutter for the best results. Reinsert your knife blade to clean out the slot after you drill the holes. ❏ 21.
❏ 3. See the following photo and temporarily pin the remainder of the 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa stick you used for the stab hinge blocks (it should be about 6" [150mm] long) to your building board over the TE of the fin plan. This will help you accurately position the fin ribs until you actually glue the fin TE in position. Use small T-pins to pin the fin ribs over their location on the plan so they contact 1/4" x 1/2" [6.4 x 12.7mm] balsa stick. die-cut 1/4" [6.
❏ 5. Cut the rudder ribs from two 3/32" x 3/8" x 24" [2.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa sticks and one 3/32" x 1/2" x 12" [2.4 x 12.7 x 305mm] balsa stick (for the bottom two rudder ribs on each side) and glue them to the rudder base. ❏ 6. Sand the rudder ribs and the rudder blocks so they match the cross section on the plan. Do not sand the “V” on LE until instructed to do so. the rudder tip block with the tip of the fin and hold it in place with a T-pin. Sand the tip block to match the fin.
Perform step 5 only if you are building fixed landing gear (a scale warbird without retracts? Won’t you reconsider?). ❏ 2. Mark rib 4 at the center of the leading edge. Lay a straightedge on the rib across the mark you made and the trailing edge of the rib where it comes to a point. Draw a short line along the straightedge from the trailing edge of the rib to the notch for the inner trailing edge. This is where you will cut the bottom of the ribs (when instructed to do so) to accommodate the flap. ❏ 3.
set rib 4 at the correct angle. Make sure the notches in the ribs for the landing gear rails allow the rails to go in at an angle as indicated on the plan. Enlarge the notches if necessary. ❏❏ 10. Test-fit, then glue the precut 1/16" [1.6mm] shear webs to the spars where shown on the plan. Note: The spars are slightly tilted to match the airfoil of the wing so the shear webs do not fully contact them.
BUILD THE CENTER SECTION ❏ 1. Align the center section wing plan over your building board and cover it with waxed paper. die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood servo mount plate base between the #2 ribs. The holes in the dowel plates are closest to the bottom of the wing. ❏ 5. Add both die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa center TE’s and the top spar. ❏ 6. Pin the ribs to your building board the same way you did for the outer panels (pin down the jig tabs and the low point of the ribs). ❏ 7.
❏ 16. Take the center section off of your building board. Perform steps 17 through 21 only if you are building flaps. ❏ 17. Mount your flap servo to two 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" [7.9 x 19.1 x 22.2mm] hardwood servo mounts with the screws included with your servo. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the servo mounts to the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood mount plate. ❏ 20.
Perform step 29 only if you are building flaps. ❏ 2. Test fit the right wing panel to the center section the same way. ❏ 6. Gather your clamps and cut some paper towels into 2" [50mm] squares to wipe away excess epoxy as you proceed. Separate the wing panels. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy and apply to all joining surfaces. Proceed immediately to the next step. Note: If you feel your 30-minute epoxy will not provide enough working time for you to join both wing panels, you may join one at a time.
Perform steps 1, 2 and 3 only if you are building fixed landing gear. landing gear. This will allow it to fully seat in the groove. Test fit the bent 3/16" [4.8mm] wire landing gear in the landing gear rail. Make adjustments where necessary for a good fit. ❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 1/2" x 3/4" x That’s all for now for the fixed gear. Skip to Prepare the outer panels for sheeting on page 23. FIT THE LANDING GEAR 6" [12.7 x 19.
rib 8 to the inner TE of both wing panels. Glue the gussets in position. ❏ 4. Securely glue both flap bellcrank plates to ribs 4 and 5 as shown on the plan. Note: Study the plan and position the flap bellcranks so both flap pushrods move in the same direction when the servo is actuated. ❏ 5. Slip a silicone retainer over both clevises of the flap center pushrod (not shown in the photo) and connect the pushrod to the bellcranks. Make sure the bellcranks are neutral when the flap servo is neutral.
SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING ❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, remove your retracts from the wing. ❏ 2. Make sure all the ribs, spars, rails and trailing now!) to make wing skin doublers that fit inside the wheel and retract openings in the bottom skin. The doublers fit between the ribs as shown in the photo. Set these pieces aside for now. You will be instructed to glue them inside the wing after you sheet the bottom.
circle but will be more of an ellipse because of the angle at which the wheel retracts into the wing. Allow at least 1/8" [4mm] clearance between the wheel and the rear of the opening in the wing in case you bend your landing gear on one of those bumpy landings. ❏ 14. Return to step 3 and construct the right wing panel. ❏ ❏ 12. Cut the bottom skin to accommodate the landing gear. First, cut a small hole under the retract rails for just the retract (not the wheel and strut).
hatch where shown on the plan. Position the servo within the lines you marked inside the hatch indicating where the rails are. ❏❏ 7. Temporarily mount the hatch with your aileron servo in the wing. ❏ 8. Return to step 1 and mount the hatch and aileron servo on the right wing panel. Perform steps 9 through 13 only if you are building flaps. Temporarily position a bottom flap skin in its location on the wing. Temporarily connect the flap pushrods to the bellcranks and rest the flap horn on the flap.
SHEET THE TOP OF THE WING ❏ 1. If you haven’t already done so, make the top wing skins as described in steps 1, 2 and 3 on page 23. the tip of the flap. This will keep the wing from bowing when you place weights on it to hold the top skin down. Sheet the left side of the wing first. ❏ ❏ 2. Trim the end of one of the skins to join the top sheeting of the center section (the skin will have a slight curve due to the curvature of the airfoil and the dihedral of the wing).
❏ 2. Test fit the flap skins to the wing and trim where needed for a good fit. Bevel the trailing edge of the flap skins as shown in the sketch below. ❏ 3. Glue the balsa flap skins to your wing. ❏ 4. Proceed to Build the ailerons on page 30. Perform steps 5 through 26 only if you are building flaps. ❏ ❏ 6. Glue the flap skin to the top of the wing. ❏ ❏ 7. Trim the bottom flap skin so it aligns with the top flap skin when you position it on the wing. Make the left flap first. ❏ ❏ 8.
❏❏ Refer to this photo for steps 14 through 18. ❏ ❏ 14. Cut the flap LE from a 3/16" x 1/4" x 24" [4.8 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa stick. Glue the flap LE to the top of the bottom flap skin. ❏ ❏ 15. Remove the hinges from the wing and trim the flap LE until the flap fits the wing. ❏ ❏ 16. Cut the flap ribs from a 3/32" x 3/8" x 24" [2.4 x 9.5 x 610mm] balsa stick. Glue the flap ribs to the flap where shown on the plan and sand them to match the shape shown on the cross section. ❏ ❏ 12.
BUILD THE AILERONS ❏❏ 1. True up the wing sheeting where the ailerons will fit. ❏ ❏ 5. Use the plan to mark the location of the ❏ 9. Remove the T-pins and take the aileron out aileron ribs on both sides of the aileron base. of the wing. For the next two steps it is helpful to set the wing on the leading edge between two blocks or boxes so it won’t fall over. ❏ ❏ 10. Place a straightedge against two T-pins ❏ ❏ 2. Hold a die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa aileron base up to the wing.
❏ 15. Return to step 1 and build the other aileron the same way. Let’s finish up the woodwork on the wing before we hook up the ailerons and move on to the fuselage. working time to align the LE as you bend it to the wing; therefore, we recommend using aliphatic resin and masking tape to hold it in place until the glue dries. While you’re waiting for the glue to dry on the leading edges, you can get started on the wing tips. FINISH THE WING ❏ 1.
❏ ❏ 11. Glue a die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa horn block to the bottom of the left aileron where shown on the plan. Sand the horn block to match the shape of the aileron. clevis. Connect one end of the pushrod to the aileron servo arm and the other end to a large nylon control horn. Adjust the length of the pushrod as shown on the plan. Drill 1/16" [1.60mm] holes in the mounting plate for the control horn. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes.
❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood former 1B to the back of 1A. From now on this assembly will be referred to as former 1A. ❏ 4. Starting at the rear with former 10, glue the die-cut and laser-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa formers 6 through 10 and the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers 3 and 4 between the main stringers where shown on the plan. Use a small square to hold the formers perpendicular to the building board as you glue them. ❏ 8.
❏ 10. See the following sketch and trim the sides of the cockpit floor to match the contour of the instrument panel, former 5 and former 6. ❏ 12. Trim the rails to match the contour of the formers the same way you did the cockpit floor. ❏ 15. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the center of the middle stringer on the front of former 1A. This is a reference mark that will be used later to align the stab. ❏ 13. From two 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 4.
SHEET THE TOP OF THE FUSELAGE ❏ 1. Blend the the stringers to the formers with a small bar sander and 150-grit sandpaper. ❏ 4. Wet the outside of the upper fuse skin with isopropyl alcohol so you can carefully bend it into position as you trim it to fit your model (the pattern on the plan is slightly oversize so you will have to custom fit the skin to your model). Frequently wet the sheet as you continue to shape and fit it to the fuselage.
MOUNT THE FIN AND STAB ❏ ❏ 1. Slightly bevel the edges of the die-cut 1/4" [6.4mm] balsa fin spacer to match the tapering angle of the fuse sheeting. Glue the fin spacer to the stab saddles, accurately aligned over its location on the plan between the fuse sheeting. ❏ 2. Pin, but do not glue, the sheeting to the fin spacer. ❏ 3. Carefully sand the balsa fuse side sheeting 5. Position the stab on the saddle with the centerline on top of the stab in the center of the fuse.
stab. Trim the leading edge and the sheeting on both sides of the fin until it fits the stab. If necessary, enlarge the opening you cut in the stab sheeting so the leading edge of the fin will straddle the center rib. When the fin trailing edge contacts your building board and is perpendicular, the fin is ready to glue in place (see the following steps). ❏ 15. Glue the turtle deck top in place.
❏ 8. Glue four 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 4.8 x 914mm] stringers and four 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x 4.8 x 610mm] stringers in the notches of the formers. Hold formers 6B through 10B in alignment as you glue the stringers to them. Note: All the stringers end in the middle of former 10B. ❏ 2. Silver solder the brass tube to the tail gear wire. Drill a 1/16" [1.60mm] hole through the end of the brass tube where shown on the plan.
❏ 7. Cut a 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x 914mm] pushrod guide tube to a length of 29" [735mm]. Sand the guide tube with coarse sandpaper so glue will stick when it’s time to glue it in place. Slide the tube through the holes in the formers as shown on the plan until it reaches the right fuse side just behind former 10. This is where the guide tube will exit the fuselage. ❏ 12. Raise or lower the tail gear wire in the nylon bracket until the steering arm is centered in the slot in the fuse.
Make adjustments if necessary and round the inside corners of the blocks for a finished appearance. Securely glue the wing bolt blocks in place with 30-minute epoxy and make small fillets of epoxy around the blocks, where they meet the doublers. SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE Sheet the right side first so it will look like the photos. ❏ 2. Sand the edges of the die-cut 1/4" [6.
❏ 2. Trim the fuse sheeting even with the lower crutches. Test fit the wing on the fuselage. This is the moment of truth! Slightly enlarge the holes in the bottom of former F1 to accommodate the wing dowels if necessary. Trim the balsa fuse sheeting near the leading edge of the wing until the wing fits. ❏ 9. Unscrew the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws that hold the tail gear bracket to the tail gear plate and remove the bracket and tail gear wire.
BUILD THE WING FILLET ❏ 5. Turn the fuselage over and remove the wing. Cover the middle of the wing with waxed paper so glue will not stick. ❏ 6. Remove the fillet bases and apply a mixture of 30-minute epoxy and microballoons to the lower crutches and the fuse side. Retape the fillet bases to the lower crutches and bolt the wing to the fuselage. Wipe away excess epoxy. ❏ 7. Position the fillets on the fuselage and glue ❏ 1. Temporarily tape both die-cut 1/32" [0.
❏ 10. Blend the fillet to the fillet base and the fuselage with automotive Bondo, Squadron white or green putty or an other suitable filler. Sand when dry. ❏ 9. Test fit your fuel tank and determine where to fuselage with lightweight balsa filler. ❏ 5. Now that the fuse is nearly complete, mount a 1-1/4" [32mm] tail wheel to the tail gear and mount the wing to the fuse. Set the model on its wheels and make sure both wing tips are the same distance from the ground.
from the engine, you must use a long Silicone tube to connect them. We used an Aerotrend 3/4" [19mm] (inside diameter) Silicone tube (AERG2220) with the included spring-sleeve inside the tube to prevent the hot exhaust gas from burning through the silicone. Before you mark the location of the muffler mounting screw holes, temporarily insert a 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa spacer between the muffler and the tank floor so the top of the muffler does not contact the fuel tank floor. ❏ 13. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.
❏ 24. After the filler has fully cured, wet-sand with ❏ 21. Use 30-minute epoxy or thin CA to apply a 1" [25mm] wide strip of glass cloth over the seams and screw holes inside the cowl, where indicated in the photo. Thoroughly sand these areas first, for a good bond. If you use CA, make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and avoid inhaling the fumes. Avoid using accelerator. progressively finer grits of sandpaper.
❏ 3. Make the throttle pushrod from a .074" x 12" [1.9 x 305mm] pushrod and a nylon clevis. Bend the pushrod as necessary and connect the clevis to the carburetor. Connect other end of the pushrod to the servo with a screw lock pushrod connector. other solvent. Cut twelve 3/8" [9.5mm] long bushings from the white inner pushrod tube, then slide them, evenly spaced, onto both elevator and pushrod wires.
Refer to this photo for steps 8 through 11. ❏ 8. If you have the elevators temporarily attached to the stab, remove them for now. Cut two filler pieces from leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa to fit between the fin sheeting and the fuse sheeting behind the stab TE on both sides of the fuse. Do not glue them in yet. ❏ 9. Cut a small, round notch in the front edge of both filler pieces to accommodate the elevator joiner wire. ❏ 10. Roughen the elevator joiner wire with sandpaper so glue will stick. ❏ 11.
❏ 3. Now is the time to install your scale cockpit interior kit. Trim and paint the scale cockpit sides, instrument panel, back and floor according to the instructions included with your cockpit kit. Glue the cockpit floor to the balsa cockpit sub floor. From now on this will be called the cockpit floor. ❏ 9. Mount your battery pack. On our model we used leftover 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood to make a 1/8" [3.2mm] battery plate and two rails to hold the battery pack in place.
❏ 7. Reinstall the cockpit floor, instrument panel, sides and support rails the same way you did before. Securely glue all the parts in place with CA. ❏ 8. Accurately trim the canopy along the molded cutlines. True the edges with a bar sander for a finished appearance. FINISHING PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING ❏ FUELPROOFING Remove the pushrods, cowl, engine, muffler and other hardware that may interfere with final sanding and covering.
COVER THE MODEL WITH MONOKOTE It is assumed that you are an intermediate to advanced modeler, so we won’t go into many details on covering techniques, but here are some tips you should consider: The larger pieces of covering will overlap the smaller pieces. This technique also eliminates the need to cut the covering after it has been applied. ❏ 1. NEVER CUT THE COVERING DIRECTLY ON THE SHEETING. The Spitfire depends upon the wood sheeting for some of its strength.
COVERING SEQUENCE FUSELAGE ❏ 1. Tail junction strips as described previously ❏ 2. Stab tops, then bottoms ❏ 3. Fin right, then left side ❏ 4. Fuse bottom aft, then front ❏ 5. Fuse sides ❏ 6. Turtle deck (may be done in one or ❏ 4. Take the covering off the fuse and cut along two pieces) ❏ 7. Front deck (aft of cowl) the lines you marked. Wipe away leftover ink with a tissue dampened with alcohol. There’s your invasion stripe! WING ❏ 1.
JOIN THE CONTROL SURFACES Do not use CA accelerator on any of the hinges and do not glue the hinges with anything but thin CA. Do not attempt to glue one half of the hinge at a time. The hinges will not be properly secured and could come out while the model is in flight. ASSEMBLE, THEN APPLY 6 DROPS OF THIN CA TO CENTER OF HINGE, ON BOTH SIDES CUT THE COVERING AWAY FROM THE SLOT ❏ 1. Start with the stab and elevators. Remove a small strip of covering from the hinge slots. ❏❏ 7.
CANOPY CAUTION: LustreKote will deform clear butyrate plastics when painting large areas. If unsure, test the paint on a leftover piece of plastic. Butyrate plastic will curl after a few days. ❏ 1. Mask the canopy for painting with wide masking tape (or several standard size strips of masking tape). Apply the masking tape, then use the frame as a guide to simultaneously press the masking tape down while you draw a guide line around the edge with a pencil. ❏ 3.
❏ edge of the wing in the location of the gun. Cut the brass tube to a length of 1-1/4" [32mm] and glue it into the wing in the hole you just made (see the following photo). 3. Use a belt sander or a rotary tool with a sanding drum to trim the propellers along the lines you marked to arrive at the correct outline. ❏ 4. Sand the blades to a uniform contour, rounding the leading and trailing edges. Sand off the boot portion of the blades as well. ❏ 5.
WHEEL COVERS The wheel covers shown on the model on the cover of the box are intended for display, but could be left in place for flying if you enlarge the opening in the bottom of the wing to accommodate the covers when the wheels are retracted. Use the template provided on the plan to cut them from 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood. To fit the wheel covers to your landing gear struts you will need two landing gear straps (GPMQ4254) and four 4-40 x 1/4" [6.4mm] screws.
The second method for applying panel lines is to use a Top Flite Smart Stripe™ to cut narrow strips of MonoKote film. Iron the panel lines in position. Black or Charcoal MonoKote film is recommended. DECALS ❏ 1. Study the plans and the photos on the box to decide where to place the decals. ❏ 2. Thoroughly clean your airplane before applying decals. may experiment by shifting the balance up to 1/4” [6.4mm] forward or 9/32” [7.1mm] back to change the flying characteristics.
your wheels to the landing gear with a 3/16" [4.8mm] wheel collar on both sides of both wheels. Secure the wheel collars with a drop of thread lock on the set screws. Note: We recommend you file a small flat spot on the landing gear wire where the set screws are located. Skip to step 5. ❏ 7. Take the servo arms off your servos, turn on your transmitter and center all the trims. Reinstall all the servo arms and secure them with the screws. movements as follows.
PREFLIGHT RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO Ground check the range of your radio before the first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing.
❏ 2. Verify the C.G. ❏ 3. Secure the battery and receiver with a strip of balsa or plywood. Simply stuffing them into place with foam rubber is not sufficient. ❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder joint inside the receiver. ❏ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in the instructions. ❏ 6. File flat spots on landing gear wires and axles for the set screws to lock onto. ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏14.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller. The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engine during or immediately after you operate it. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine and cause a fire. To stop the engine, close the carburetor barrel (rotor) or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel flow. Do not use your hands, fingers or any body part to stop the engine. Never throw anything into the prop of a running engine.
Caution (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz”, this may indicate control surface “flutter”. Because flutter can quickly destroy components or your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this may indicate which surface fluttered) and make sure all pushrod linkages are slop-free.
(TOPA0100) Top Flite F4U Corsair (TOPA0120) Top Flite P-40E Warhawk 62" [1575mm] Wingspan, 7–9.5 lb [3170 - 4310g] 64" [1626mm] Wingspan, 8–10.5 lb [3630 - 4760g] (TOPA0135) Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt (TOPA0110) Top Flite P-51D Mustang 63" [1600mm] Wingspan, 8.5-10.
(TOPA0130) Top Flite AT-6 Texan (TOPA0300) Top Flite Cessna 182 Skylane 69" [1753mm] Wingspan, 7.5–10 lb [3400 - 4540g] 81" [2057mm] Wingspan, 10-12 lb [4540 - 5440g] (TOPA0305) Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza (TOPA0400) Top Flite Giant Scale P-51D Mustang 81" [2057mm] Wingspan, 11-13 lb [4990 - 5900g] 84.5" [2146mm] Wingspan, 17.
2-VIEW DRAWING Use this layout for trim scheme planning only. Not suitable for scale documentation.
