™ DE MA IN A US Wingspan: 51 in [1295.4 mm] Wing Area: 550 sq in [35.5 sq dm] Weight: 3-1/2 to 5-1/2 lb. [1588-2495g] Wing Loading: 14.7 - 23.0 oz/sq ft. [44.8-70.2 g/sq dm] Fuselage Length: 42-3/8 in [1076 mm] WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Engine selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Retractable landing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Flaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
systems. The model has been engineered to allow the installation of up to 7 servos, as well as retractable landing gear. Well, this should be enough to get your juices flowing, so get your other projects off your workbench, say goodbye to your significant other for a while and...keep reading! PRECAUTIONS 1.You must build the plane according to the plan and instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
For Retractable Landing Gear you will need these items (not included): Great Planes Retracts (GPMQ2905) Retract servo (FUTM0670 or HCAM0160) (2) 2-1/4” [57mm] wheels (GPMQ4222) (2) Nylon Clevis (GPMQ3800) (2) 2-56 x 12” [305mm] pushrod, threaded one end (GPMQ3750) (2) Screw-Lock connectors (GPMQ3870) (8) #4 x 3/8” [9.5mm] flat head sheet metal screws FLAPS Your R/C Nobler is designed to incorporate flaps. You must build these flaps, but you do not have to make them operational.
Radio installation The radio installation can be as simple as five standard servos - or as challenging as seven servos that must be fitted in a confined space. Pay very close attention to the instructions and it will all fit easily. Drift off on your own if you want, but be prepared to spend a lot of time getting things to fit properly. Nose heavy/Tail heavy Most models require some nose weight to balance properly. This one requires tail weight! The built up tail feathers are light yet very strong.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS IMPORTANT Do not remove the wing ribs or other wing parts from the die-cut sheets until instructed to do so.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -7-
Tools ❏ #11 Blades (HCAR0311) -100 qty. ❏ Single Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312) -100 qty. ❏ Razor Plane (MASR1510) ❏ Hobbico Builder’s Triangle (HCAR0480) ❏ T-Pins (HCAR5100) small, (HCAR5150) medium, (HCAR5200) large ❏ Drill Bits: 1/16” [1.6mm], 3/32” [2.4mm], 1/8” [3.1mm], 5/64” [2mm], 7/64” [2.8mm], 9/64” [3.6mm], 5/32” [4mm], 11/64” [4.4mm], 3/16” [4.8mm], 7/32” [5.6mm], 1/4” [6.
main spar even if the wing is upside-down when you are working on it. Similarly, move the former up means move the former toward the top of the fuselage even if the fuselage is upside-down when you are working on it. • When you get to each step, read that step completely through to the end before you begin. Frequently there is important information or a note at the end of the step that you need to know before you start.
When you install the tip on the end of the CA bottle, cut the large end of the tip to a depth of about 1/4” [6.4mm]. Doing so will prevent the tip from splitting and leaking when it is pressed onto the bottle. ❏ 6. After the CA has cured, remove the pins from the stab. Use a sanding block with 150-grit sandpaper to sand the stab flat. ❏ 5. Cut the stab ribs, diagonals and hinge blocks from soft 1/8” x 1/4” x 24” [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa sticks and place them into position.
that is required should be done before the sheeting is glued in place. The only sanding that should be required after the sheeting is glued to the structure is final sanding with 320 or 400-grit sandpaper. ❏ 9. After the glue dries, remove the stab from the building board and trim the sheeting along the LE and both tips. Save the leftover sheeting for use in the next step. ❏ 10. Locate another hard sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 24" Here are a few other things to keep in mind while sanding balsa sheeting: 1.
❏ 3. Use a soft 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 x 610mm] sheet of balsa to sheet the top of both elevators. Cut a piece from the sheet for each elevator. Then, glue it in place with medium CA or aliphatic resin. Save the leftover sheeting for use later. BUILD THE VERTICAL FIN ❏ 1. Cut the vertical fin plan along the dashed line and tape it to your building board. Cover the fin plan with Plan Protector or wax paper. ❏ 4.
BUILD THE RUDDER ❏ 7. Locate a die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply control horn mount. Using the plan as a reference, position the control horn mount on the left side of the rudder and mark its location. Cut along the lines you marked and remove the balsa to inset the mount. Glue the mount into the rudder. ❏ 6. Locate the leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa sheeting used to sheet the stab and elevators. Use this material to make two fin skins similar to the above photo. HINGE THE ELEVATORS AND RUDDER ❏ 1.
❏ 5. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the hinges. If any hinge slots are not wide enough or are misaligned, make adjustments so the elevators accurately fit the stab. ❏ 6. Bevel the leading edges of the elevators to a “V” as shown on the cross section of the plan. Use the centerline on the elevator leading edges as a guide. Test fit the elevators to the stab with the joiner wire and the hinges. (If necessary, remove the joiner and tweak it so both elevators are in the same plane.) ❏ 1.
fuselage side extends 1/4" [6.4mm] beyond the doubler at the front end of the assembly. Also check that the fuselage side extends 3/32" [2.4mm] beyond the doubler along the edge of the assembly as shown in the photo. ❏ ❏ 2. Use your bar sander to sand the edges flat and straight where the parts join. Using one set of parts, edge glue the upper fuselage side, front lower fuselage side and rear lower fuselage side parts together using either thin CA or aliphatic resin.
FRAME THE FUSELAGE them to hold them in place. Be careful not to get any epoxy in the threaded holes in the blind nuts. Note: The blind nuts are installed on the aft side of F1. HOW TO DRILL ANGLED HOLES A. Mark the fuselage side with pins where the hole enters and exits the fuselage side. B. Start by drilling a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole at the exit point on the outside of the fuselage side. C. Turn the side over and use a rotary tool with a cutoff wheel to cut a trough in the interior of the fuselage side.
❏ 12. Glue the top deck to the fuselage sides between F2 and F3 with thin CA. Be sure the top deck is firmly seated against the ply fuse doublers. ❏ 7. Place the fuselage top deck over the top view of the fuselage plan. Align the cutouts in the top deck with formers F2, F3TC and F3. Mark the location of former F1TR and all of the formers aft of F3.Transfer the marks for F4, F5 and F6 to the bottom of the top deck.
❏ 15. Glue the top deck to the fuselage sides ❏ 23. Sand the top of the fuselage lightly to remove any between F1 and F2 with thin CA. glue bumps. Sand the bottom of the fuselage flat and level. Sand the front and rear ends flat and smooth. INSTALL THE PUSHRODS AND SERVOS The elevator servo is installed on the left side of the fuselage and the pushrod for that servo exits from the right side of the fuselage. ❏ 16. Fit former F4 into position. Note the curve of the sides.
We recommend Z-bends be used for the pushrods where they connect to the servo arms. This results in the most compact installation possible and will reduce the possibility of a pushrod contacting something close to it. As an alternative you can use an L-bend with one of the supplied nylon Faslink keepers. For making Z-bends we highly recommend the Precision Z-bend Pliers from Great Planes (GPMR8025).
If you are using an O.S. .46 FX the location is already marked. Remove the engine but leave the engine mount in place. Note: To allow as much room as possible for the fuel tank, the throttle pushrod should be placed as close to the fuselage side as possible. See the photo at step 10. ❏ 7. Position the servo and rails so that the pushrod ❏ 12. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] basswood stick, cut two servo mounting rails to a length of 2-5/8" [66.7mm].
❏ 16. From the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] ❏ 14. Install a Screw-Lock connector, nylon basswood stick, cut FOUR servo mounting rails to a length of 2-5/8" [66.7mm]. Glue two of these rails to the top deck on the inside of the fuselage. Glue a second set of rails on top of these rails. This will space the rudder servo 1/8" [3.2mm] further from the deck than the throttle servo.
FINISH THE FUSELAGE ❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply former F3T into place on the top deck using thin CA. Make sure that it is perpendicular to the top deck and that it is centered between the sides, directly on top of F3. ❏ 4. Glue two 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa sticks from F3T and F6T along the top of the top deck. Trim the sticks even with F3T and F6T. ❏ 5. Use a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper to blend the sticks with the shape of the formers. ❏ 8.
❏ 10. Locate the four 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm] balsa sheets. Set the two softest sheets aside for use later. Use the remaining two to sheet the front of the fuselage in the following steps. C. In the same manner, mark the sheeting at F1T. D. The sheeting is straight from F3T to F2T and then slowly slopes to F1T. Mark the sheeting where it crosses F2T. Transfer the mark at F3T to F2T. Our F3T mark showed the sheeting needs to be 1-15/16" [49.2mm] wide at F3T. It should also be 1-15/16" [49.
BUILD THE WING BUILD THE RIGHT PANEL ❏ 18. Locate the two soft 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 76 x 610mm] balsa sheets you set aside in step 10. Cut both sheets to a length of 14" [356mm]. Fit a piece of sheeting to the area to be covered between F3T and F6T on the left side of the fuselage. Glue the sheet into position with thin CA. Note: There is a small area of the sheeting at the top near F3T that needs to be filled in. Use a corner of the piece you just cut off and glue it to the sheeting. ❏ 1.
❏ R8. In the same manner, prepare both W4 ribs. Remove the lightening holes from both W2 ribs. ❏ 9. Cut the right wing plan along the dashed line and tape it to your building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector or wax paper. ❏ F3. If you are installing fixed gear on your model, prepare both W2 ribs as shown in the above sketch. Glue the lightening hole forward of the spars back into the rib. Remove the two pieces from the lightening hole aft of the spars. ❏ R6.
❏ ❏ 18. Remove the top basswood spar. Spread a bead of medium CA along the top of the spar web between W2 to W10 and on each rib where the top spar will contact them. Re-install the top spar and hold it firmly in place against the spar web until the CA cures. crisscross fashion. Place an additional pair of pins beside the spar between ribs W5 and W6. Do not crisscross these as it would interfere with the spar web. Stick them into your building board vertically so that they keep the spar in position.
front of each rib with thin CA. The top of the leading edge should be even with the tops of the ribs. Use a straight edge along the sides of W1 and W10 to insure that they are straight. Note: You will need to carefully sand the front of W2, W3 and W4 at an angle to match the sweep of the LE if those ribs have a ply doubler installed. After you remove the wing from the building board, use thin CA to glue the skin to the tapered leading edge.
❏ ❏ F32. Chamfer the inside edge of the hole in the landing gear rail to accommodate the bend of the landing gear wire. This will allow it to fully seat in the groove. Test fit the 5/32" [4mm] landing gear wire in the landing gear rail. Make adjustments where necessary for a good fit. Continue with step 36. and the retract mounting rail(s) to fit the retract unit. The best tool for this is a rotary tool with a 1/2" [12.7mm] sanding drum. Do not trim W2 for the wheel.
head sheet metal screws. Mount the hatch to the rails with six #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screws. Remove the hatch and harden the holes with a couple of drops of thin CA. After the CA has cured mount the hatch to the rails. If some of the glue joints were loose when you glued the first leading edge skin on, you may want to use aliphatic resin glue for this skin. Most aliphatic resin glues can be heat activated after the glue has dried, allowing a loose skin joint to be ironed back into place. ❏ ❏ 40.
BUILD THE WING TIPS ❏ ❏ 6. Turn the tip over and glue a second set of tip ribs into position. It is easiest to build the wing tip as a separate assembly and then glue it to the wing. All of the tip ribs are slightly oversize in length to allow them to be blended and rounded at the tip. T5 and T6 are slightly tall as well. ❏ 7. Return to step 1 and build a second wing tip. The wing tips will be glued into place during final assembly. ❏ ❏ 46. Glue the top 1/16" x 1-7/16" x 24" [1.6 x 36.
❏ ❏ 8. Turn the aileron over and use a sanding block to sand the un-sheeted side flat. Use medium CA or aliphatic resin to glue the second skin to the aileron. Align the skin even with the LE of the aileron. ❏ ❏ 9. After the glue dries, remove the aileron from the building board and trim the sheeting along the TE and both tips. ❏ ❏ 4. Cut the aileron ribs, diagonals and hinge blocks from a soft 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2 x 6.4 x 762mm] balsa stick and place them into position.
flaps as shown on the plan and in the photo. Mark the leading edge of the flaps where the arm portion of the joiner will enter each flap. The center of the hole will be about 3/8" [9.5mm] from the end. ❏ 4. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole, 1/2" [12.7mm] deep in the center of the hinge slots. Use a rotary tool with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill bit or a carbide cutter for the best results. Reinsert your knife blade to clean out the slot after you drill the holes. ❏ 5.
❏ 2. Mark the joiners where they protrude from the right wing. Remove them and trial fit them in the left wing panel, making sure that they can be inserted at least as far as the marks. If they can’t, find out why. If they are slightly long, trim them as needed. DO NOT apply any glue. MOUNT THE SERVOS IN THE WING ❏ 5. Use a sheet of 1/16" x 3" x 24" [1.6 x 76 x 610mm] balsa to cut and fit the bottom center sheeting. Fit the first piece to the trailing edge.
In the following steps you will mount the flap servo. It is important that the servo linkage be mounted in the exact position shown on the plan as there is very little clearance with the servos and pushrods mounted in the fuselage. Use the flap servo mounting template on the plan as a guide in positioning the servo. ❏ ❏ 3. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the servo hatch into each servo mount block. Countersink the hole and install a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] flat head sheet metal screw. ❏ ❏ 6.
centered and the servo arm at 90 degrees to the servo, make a Z-bend in the control rod where it will connect to the servo arm. Connect the control rod to the servo arm. Note that the control rod is installed into the top of the servo arm. ❏ 10. Using the FLAP SERVO MOUNTING ❏ 12. Position the wing on the fuselage and check the clearance of the flap servo and linkage with the other servos and linkages in the fuselage.
Note: In the following steps you will build the belly pan for the wing. Once you tack glue the parts into position you will remove the wing from the fuselage. If you are not known for your neat gluing technique, you may want to put some plan protector or wax paper between the wing and fuselage to prevent them from being glued together. of 1/32" [0.8mm] ply or some cardboard from a cereal box can be used. You may need to trim F2BP where it fits to the wing. ❏ 9. From leftover 1/4" [6.
❏ 17. From a leftover 1/8" x 1/4" [3.2 x 6.4mm] ❏ 13. Reposition the wing on the fuselage making sure it fits properly and that the belly pan sides are even with the fuselage sides. Drill a tap hole for the 1/4-20 nylon bolts in the three wing hold down blocks. Drill the holes at the pin point punch marks. The holes go through the wing hold down blocks and also through the fuse hold down blocks under them. basswood stick cut three pieces 1" [25.4mm] long.
MOUNT THE STAB AND FIN ❏ 1. Mount the wing to the fuselage with the wing bolts. Make any adjustments to be sure the wing seats properly in the wing saddle. ❏ 7. Locate the two die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa fuselage bottom sheeting parts. Use your bar ❏ 4. Cut a 1/4" [6.4mm] wide notch in the top of the sander to sand the edges flat and straight where the fuselage for the leading edge of the vertical fin. Fit the fin to the fuselage and check its alignment.
ROUGH SAND THE MODEL ❏ 10. Glue the wing tips to each end of the wing. ❏ 4. Fit the 1/4" x 2-7/8" x 3-5/8" [6.4 x 73 x 92.1mm] They should be centered on the LE and TE. Glue a piece of leftover 1/16" balsa on the TE of the tip as shown on the plan. MOUNT THE FUEL TANK ❏ 1. Assemble your tank using the instructions that came with the tank. If your tank has a 90 degree fitting, use it pointing to the left side of the tank. balsa hatch to the tank compartment opening.
❏ ❏ F2. Install two nylon landing gear straps on ❏ F6. Cut a groove in the LE of the rudder for the tail each wire. Use four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal screws to hold the straps in place. Note that the straps are angled so that the screws will fit on the rails properly. Harden the holes for the screws with some thin CA. ❏ ❏ F3. Install your wheels on the main landing gear wires using two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars and 6-32 x 1/8" [3.2mm] set screws for each wheel.
opening in the top sheeting for the servo being careful not to go beyond where the fuselage side will be. Mount the servo, using the screws, grommets and eyelets supplied with the servo, to basswood blocks (not included) that are glued to the bottom sheeting. Install screw lock connectors on the servo arm. Fit, adjust and install pushrods to the retract units. INSTALL THE ENGINE COWL ❏ 4. Glue the cowl halves together with thin CA or ❏ R14. Go back to page 41 step F4 and install the tail wheel.
❏ 6. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes in the side of the fuselage at the marked locations. Enlarge the holes in the cowl with a 7/64" [2.8mm] drill. Mount the cowl to the fuselage using four #4 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet metal screws and #4 washers. Remove the cowl and harden the holes in the fuselage with a few drops of thin CA. ❏ 7. Use epoxy or thin CA to glue a 1" [25.4mm] wide strip of glass cloth over the screw holes inside the cowl. Thoroughly sand these areas first for a good bond.
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR COVERING ❏ 2. Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints and seams that require filler. Apply lightweight balsa filler ❏ 1. At this stage, there shouldn’t be much left to do. (HCAR3401) where needed. Many small dents or ❏ 15. After the filler has fully cured, wet-sand with progressively finer grits of sandpaper. When you’re done, your cowl should look something like the one in the photo - just enough filler left to fill in the low spots near the seams.
❏ 3. Some modelers have three irons going at once: one on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching the covering around curves like wingtips; one on medium heat with a Hot Sock for bonding the covering to large sheeted areas like the wing and stab; and a Trim Iron for small areas. ❏ 4. When you cover large sheeted surfaces such as the wing, bond the covering in the middle and work outward, pushing out air as you proceed.
❏ 5. Connect the clevis on the elevator pushrod wire to the elevator horn. With the elevators neutral, mark the pushrod wire at the servo arm where you will make a Z-bend. Make sure that the elevator is centered and that the servo arm is at 90 degrees to the servo. ❏ 9. Start installing the hinges with the stab and ❏ 2. Cut ten 1/4" [6.4mm] long pieces from the 6-1/2" elevators. Remove a small strip of covering from the hinge slots. [165mm] white plastic pushrod material.
❏ 13. Use the same hinging method to join the rudder to the fin and the ailerons and flaps to the wing. Use 30minute epoxy to glue the flap joiner wire and tail wheel wire to the flaps and rudder. join the elevators to the stab, remove the elevators and insert a pin in the center of the hinges to keep them centered. Make sure there is approximately a 1/64" [0.4mm] gap between the elevators and the stab so you do not glue them together.
How to mark the balance point forward or add weight to the nose. If the nose drops, it is nose heavy and you must relocate your battery pack or other components aft or add weight to the tail. In order to save weight, relocate your battery pack and/or other components before you add additional weight to arrive at the correct C.G. You may install nose or tail weight by gluing lead weights inside the fuselage where necessary.
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS We recommend the following control surface throws: NOTE: Throws are measured at the widest part of the control surface.
CHECK LIST During the last few moments of preparation your mind may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of your first flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain checks and procedures that should be performed after your model is built. To help avoid this, we’ve provided a checklist to make sure you don’t overlook these important areas. Many are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete instructions.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller. RADIO CONTROL Flight 1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper. 3.
extended, you’ll need to add a little more throttle than usual to overcome the increased drag and maintain airspeed. Mind your fuel so you can make as many attempts as required so you can bring your baby home safely. CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface flutter.
2-VIEW Use this layout to plan your trim scheme.
B C
D A