DE IN MA A US Hobby Services 3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1 Champaign IL 61822 USA assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase. To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below.
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION....................................................2 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ......................................3 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ............................4 Radio Equipment................................................4 Engine Recommendations .................................4 Landing Gear Options........................................4 Cockpit & Pilots ..................................................5 Trim Scheme/Finishing Supplies........................
AMA We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and air shows.
information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots. 8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress.
The following items were also used to assemble the Piper Arrow with retractable landing gear: ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ ❏ Robart #530ARW pneumatic retractable landing gear kit for Piper Arrow (ROBQ1621) Robart #188VR variable rate air control kit (ROBQ2302, includes air tank, variable rate valve, lines, fittings) (1 pkg.
❏ Single-edge razor blades (100-pack, HCAR0312) ❏ Small T-pins (100, HCAR5100) ❏ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150) ❏ Large T-pins (100, HCAR5200) ❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (see Easy-Touch Bar Sander section) ❏ 16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] Great Planes Pro Building Board (GPMR6950) ❏ Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic parts (HCAR0667) OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Piper Arrow. ❏ 2 oz.
= = = = = = = = = = = = BASSWOOD 1" 2" 3" 6" 12" 15" 18" 21" 24" 30" 36" = = = = = = = = = = = 25.4mm 50.8mm 76.2mm 152.4mm 304.8mm 381mm 457.2mm 533.4mm 609.6mm 762mm 914.4mm PLYWOOD TYPES OF WOOD .4mm .8mm 1.6mm 2.4mm 3.2mm 4mm 4.8mm 6.4mm 9.5mm 12.7mm 15.9mm 19mm 1" = 25.
DIE-CUT DRAWINGS -8-
DIE-CUT DRAWINGS -9-
PREPARE TO BUILD 1. If you’ve already purchased the retractable landing gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines out of the package. Unravel the lines and hang them somewhere in your shop. When it’s time to install the lines they’ll be nice and straight and they’ll be easier to work with. 2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint pen (not a felt-tip pen) to lightly write the name or size on each piece so it can be identified later.
❏ 7. Glue the die-cut 3/32” [2.4mm] balsa rudder rib R1A into position. If necessary, sand R1A to blend with the rest of the structure. Now it’s time to make the balsa skins for sheeting the fin and rudder. Note: Should you decide to build your Arrow without the corrugations, replace the die-cut skins supplied with this kit with soft to medium density 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa sheeting (not supplied). ❏ 8. Glue together both sets of die-cut 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa parts that make up the fin skins.
❏ 14. Prepare the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa rudder skins by cutting out the corrugations and gluing on the corrugation fillers the same as the fin skins. ❏ 15. Remove most of the T-pins holding the fin framework to the building board, but leave a few of them in R1 and R6 to hold the structure down. Make sure none of the pins will be concealed under the skin after it has been glued into position. Refer to this photo for the following two steps. ❏ 16.
❏ 23. Cut the fin leading edge from the 1/4"x 3/4"x 30"[6.4 x 19 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it into position. Save the remainder of the stick for the rudder leading edge. Sand the top of the fin leading edge even with R6 and sand the sides of the leading edge even with both sides of the fin. ❏ 24. Use a small razor saw to separate the rudder from the fin.
❏ 6. Use a razor plane and/or a hobby knife followed by a bar sander to shape the fin and rudder tip to match the fin and rudder, but do not round the top until the next step. ❏ 7. Now go ahead and round the tips of the fin and rudder by sanding. ❏ 8. Remove the tape and separate the fin from the rudder. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to mark lines on both sides of the rudder 1/4"[6mm] back from the leading edge.
❏ 2. Repeat the previous step to make the leading and trailing edge portions of the other stab skin. Glue the sheets you just cut to the front and back of the stab skins. Reminder: Aliphatic resin is recommended over CA because it will allow time to position the sheets and will be easier to sand after it dries. ❏ 3. While the glue on the stab skins is drying, make up the ribs for the stab assembly by gluing a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib doubler “S2C” to both sides of four die-cut 3/32"[2.
❏ 8. Use 320-grit or 400-grit sandpaper to roughen the outside of the 11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass tube and the inside and outside of the 3/8"x 11/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube so glue will adhere. ❏ 9. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the dowel spar and tubes together—both tubes should be centered on the dowel. From now on this assembly will be referred to as the stab spar. Note: It may be necessary to sand down the dowel to get it to fit into the 11/32" [8.7mm] brass tub. ❏ 10.
❏ 18. Glue the 1/8"x 1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa stabilizer trailing edge into position. Cut the stab center filler block from the 1/2"x 1"x 24"[12.7 x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick (first used for the fin and rudder tips). Shape the block to fit between the S1 ribs, but don’t worry about rounding the inside edge at this time. Glue the block into position. ❏ 19. Shape the stabilizer trailing edge, the stab center filler block and the top sheeting to match the shape of the ribs. ❏ 20.
❏ 26. Mark a centerline around the tips, then glue them into position. Using the centerlines as guides, carve and sand the tips to match the stab, then round to a finished shape. ❏ 27. The same as was done on the fin and rudder corrugations, get out your putty knife and wood filler and partially fill all of the corrugations on both sides of the stab. Allow to dry, then sand. BUILD THE WING MAKE THE WING SKINS ❏ 1. Cut the wing center panel plan from the wing plan.
❏ 4. Use a #11 blade to cut part way through both sides of the ribs that go on the outer ends of the center panel between the spar notches. ❏ 5. Glue together both die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center leading edges (CLE). ❏ 6. Cut the top and bottom spars for the center panel to a length of 9-3/8"[240mm] from a 1/4"x 3/8"x 36"[6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm] basswood stick. ❏ 7. Join the ribs to the center leading edge, the diecut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center trailing edge, the die-cut 1/8"[3.
Refer to this photo for the following two steps. ❏ 12. Both sides of the center panel will be sheeted in two sections—with the seam centered over the main spars. With the assembly accurately aligned over the plan, start by sheeting the aft section with one of the skins you prepared earlier. The skin should be trimmed so that the aft edge aligns with the trailing edge depicted on the plan and the front edge aligns with the middle of the top spar.
BUILD THE OUTER PANELS We’ll start by making the wing skins. It’s a bit of an undertaking to do them all at once, but then you won’t have to make any more. Or you could just make the skins as needed… ❏ 1. Glue together two 1/16"x 3"x 36"[1.6 x 75 x 910mm] balsa sheets to make one 6"x 36"[150 x 910mm] balsa outer wing skin. Make seven more 6"x 36"[150 x 910mm] outer skins the same way. ❏ 2. After the glue has dried, cut a 3/4" x 18"[19 x 460mm] strip from four of the skins.
❏ ❏ 12. Remove the top spar from the assembly. Apply a bead of medium or thick CA along the top edge of the spar web, then reposition the top spar. Make sure W2 is still at the correct angle using the dihedral gauge. Refer to this photo for the following two steps. ❏ ❏ 16. Glue the aft skin into position. Aliphatic resin is recommended as it will allow time for positioning. Use weights and T-pins to hold the skin in position while the glue dries.
FIT THE FIXED LANDING GEAR Skip this section if installing retracts. Note: Even though the landing gear assembly for the left wing is shown in the photographs, both landing gear assemblies could be installed simultaneously. ❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue a 3/4" x 1" x 1" [19 x 25 x 25mm] basswood main landing gear torque block to one end of a 1/2" x 1" x 2-11/16" [12.7 x 25 x 68mm] grooved basswood main landing gear rail. After the epoxy has hardened drill a #11 (or 3/16" [4.
FINISH FITTING THE LANDING GEAR Even though retractable landing gear are shown in the photos, this section applies both to fixed and retractable landing gear. ❏ 1. Cut the landing gear rail shear webs from the remainder of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" [1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheet used for the shear webs for the center panel. Glue the shear webs into position. ❏ 2. Determine how close you can position a piece of leftover 1/8" [3.
SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING ❏ 1. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs on the bottom of the wing. Sand the flap bay trailing edge, the aileron bay sub trailing edge and the sub leading edges even with the bottoms of the ribs. ❏ 2. If not building working flaps, cut out the corrugations from a die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa flap skin. Glue the flap skin to the wing, then glue on the 1/8" x 1/4" x 30" [3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa TE support and the corrugation filler strips.
MOUNT THE HATCHES AND LANDING GEAR ❏ 1. Cut the openings for the aileron and flap (if used) hatches. Start by cutting a small hole, then enlarging the hole until you get to the ribs and the servo rails. Use the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood hatches as templates to enlarge the openings until the hatches fit perfectly (with an approximately 1/64" [.5mm] gap all the way around). Note that the ribs support both the sheeting and the hatch, so you’ll have to work with precision. ❏ 2.
❏ 5. Cut the sheeting for the landing gear and the wheels (if installing retracts). Do it the same way you did for the servo hatches—start by cutting small holes, then enlarging the holes until you can get the gear and the wheel to fit. If installing retracts, mount the gear first, then cut the hole for the wheel as you retract the gear and fit the wheel into the wing. ❏ 6. If you mounted retracts, reinforce the bottom sheeting around the wheel cutouts with 1/32" [.8mm] plywood (not included) or 1/16" [1.
❏ 12. Use a carving knife or a razor plane to shape the top of the block to match the shape of the wing. Follow with a bar sander and 80-grit sandpaper. Note: When sanding, hold the bar sander on the end over the tip and apply pressure there only. This way, you won’t be sanding the sheeting. angle as shown on the cross-section on the plan. ❏ 13. Shape the bottom of the tip to a 45-degree ❏ 14. Use progressively finer grades of sandpaper to final-shape the wing tip and the leading edge of the wing.
❏ ❏ 9. Prepare the top aileron skin by cutting out the corrugations. Cut the corrugation fillers. Note that the fillers extend from the front of the cutouts to approximately 1/8" [3mm] from rear of the cutouts. Cut a bevel on the aft edge of the fillers to accommodate the fillers on the top skin, then glue the fillers into position. Also note the two shorter corrugation fillers to accommodate the control horn support. Test fit, then glue the skin to the rest of the assembly.
❏ ❏ 9. Bevel the front of the flap to match the angle of the plywood flap ribs. ❏ ❏ 10. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the punchmark in the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood flap control horn. Fit but do not glue the horn into the flap next to the flap rib where shown on the plan for the flap you are working on. Mark, then cut the 1/2" x 1" x 24" [13 x 25 x 610mm] balsa flap leading edge into two pieces at the horn. ❏ ❏ 11. Position the shorter piece of flap leading edge on the flap next to the horn.
❏ ❏ 17. Carefully break away the short piece of flap leading edge that was tack glued to the flap. Glue the flap horn into the flap, then glue the flap leading edge back on. Use thick CA or aliphatic resin so you will have time to accurately reposition the leading edge. ❏ 18. Return to step 1 and build the right flap the same way. Use the small hash marks on the right wing plan to mark the flap hinge locations. HINGE THE FLAPS ❏ 1. Glue together the die-cut 1/8" [3.
❏ 6. Trim one end of three large Robart Hinge Points so they will fit into the flap. Test fit the flap to the wing with the hinges. Move the flap up and down to align the hinges and see how the flap fits. Make any adjustments needed for smooth operation. ❏ 7. Hinge the other flap the same way. MOUNT THE FLAP AND AILERON SERVOS ❏ 1. Cut four (or eight if building working flaps) 7/8" [22.2mm] servo mounts from the 3/8" x 3/8" x 24" [9.5 x 9.5 x 610mm] basswood stick.
❏ 5. If building working flaps, mount the flap servos to two more sets of mounting blocks. Note that while the aileron servos are mounted to the hatches in a “mirrored” image, the flap servos are not mirrored (so that the flaps will work together (instead of in opposition as do the ailerons). It will be easier to hook up the ailerons before joining the wing halves, so go ahead and do so as instructed below.
BUILD THE FUSELAGE FRAME THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSELAGE ❏ 1. The fuselage plan consists of two pieces. Cut one of the pieces at the lines, then tape it to the other plan aligning the lines. ❏ 2. Cut the bottom view of the fuselage plan from the rest of the plan (or leave the plan together and position the bottom view over your flat building board). Cover the plan with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere. ❏ 3. Glue a die-cut 1/8" [3.
❏ 8. Glue former 3A to the front of 3B. Glue the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood doublers 2C to both sides of former 2B. If you will be installing retractable landing gear, drill 9/64" [3.6mm] holes through the two other punchmarks for the nose steering guide tubes. ❏ 9. Use a straightedge and a fine-point ballpoint pen to draw a line across the punchmarks in one of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuselage doublers. Enlarge the notches in the doubler back to the line by cutting away the unused material.
Finally, it’s time to start gluing on formers. We’ll start with the back and work our way forward. Here’s a photo of what the bottom of the fuselage looks like when it’s partially framed-up. You can use this photo as a reference as you perform the following several steps. ❏ 13. Test fit, then glue formers 7B through 12B and the bottom stabilizer mounts into position. Be certain all of the formers are vertical and accurately align with their position on the plan.
❏ 22. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood nose gear supports and the 1/4" x 9/16" x 10" [6.4 x 14.3 x 250mm] plywood nose gear mounting rails. Cut the rails to the correct length and save the cut off pieces. Glue the parts into position with 30-minute epoxy. Use clamps to hold the supports to the firewall and to the rails. Wedge leftover balsa sticks between the rails to press them into the notches in the firewall and former 2. ❏ 23. Test fit your servos in the die-cut 1/8" [3.
❏ 4. Test fit the sheet to the aft fuselage bottom. Cut an angle at the front, then glue the sheet into position—the exact angle isn’t critical because the second sheet will be custom fit to the first. ❏ 5. Sheet the front of the fuselage bottom using two more 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm] balsa sheets. The aft end of the sheet will have to be cut at an angle to match the sheet already on the fuselage in the previous step. ❏ 6. Sheet the other side of the fuselage the same way. ❏ 7.
MOUNT THE FIXED NOSE GEAR Skip this section if installing retracts. ❏ 1. Glue the 1/4" x 3/4" x 1-3/8" [6.4 x 19 x 35mm] plywood spacer, centered, between the 1/2" x 19/16" x 2" [13 x 39.7 x 50mm] basswood fixed nose gear blocks. When doing so, lay the parts on a flat surface with the beveled edges down so they align. ❏ 2. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood mounting plate, centered, to the front, beveled end of the basswood blocks.
❏ 5. The same as was done for the main landing gear, reinforce the inside of the bottom sheeting with 3/32" plywood (not supplied) or leftover balsa. Cut an opening in the bottom of the fuselage to accommodate the nose gear. Proceed slowly to get a nice-looking cutout, but make sure you leave enough room all the way around so the gear will never “hang up.” MOUNT THE ENGINE ❏ 1. Glue together the three die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers F1T. After the glue dries drill 7/32" [5.
❏ 4. Temporarily install the pull/pull lines and connect the air valve to the air valve servo using the hardware shown. Note that the air valve servo can only move so far before it will interfere with the nose wheel steering lines. The air valve should be fully open (or closed) when the servo is in this position. This can be adjusted using the AFR or ATV function in your transmitter. ❏ 5.
Now for the fun part... ❏ 4. Use a trim seal tool to iron 3/16" [4.8mm] strips of covering down into the corrugations. Carefully cut the ends of the strips at the ends. Hint: Use a metal file and wet/dry sandpaper to round the tip of your trim seal tool to match the radius of the corrugations. ❏ 5. After all of the corrugations have been covered, cover the bottom of the stab going right over the corrugations as though they weren’t even there. The bottom can be covered in one piece.
MOUNT THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER ❏ 4. Temporarily mount the bellcrank with the brass bushing, a 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] screw, a #4 washer of the fuselage even with former F10. crosses the holes in the bellcrank. ❏ 1. Sand the sheeting around the bottom and sides and a 4-40 nut. Mark the stabilizer pushrod where it ❏ 5. Disconnect the pushrod from the servo, slide the pushrod out past former F11B and make a Zbend in the pushrod at the mark. Cut off the excess wire. Remove the bellcrank. - 43 - ❏ 2.
the fuselage. ❏ 9. Connect the stabilizer pushrod to the bellcrank and place the stabilizer bearings (that are already on the stabilizer) in the stab mounts. Mount the bellcrank. (You can see more pictures of the bellcrank hookup, starting on page 51 under “Fit the Tail Cone.”) ❏ 10. Without using any glue, place the top stabilizer mounts on the fuselage over the stabilizer bearings. Again without glue, join die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood formers 8T and 9T and the die-cut 1/8" [3.
❏ 16. Glue both die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood top stab mount triplers to the inside of the stab mounts above the bottom stab mount triplers. Glue two sets of die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood bearing retainers to the outer brass tube and to each other, but do not glue the retainers to the stab mount. Make certain the retainers are pressed tightly against the stab mount triplers, but do not glue them to the triplers. This will keep the stab from shifting in the bearings.
. ❏ 4. Use a 1/8 [3.2mm] drill bit or a brass tube sharpened on the end to drill a hole into the rudder for the torque rod. ❏ 5. Use a 5/32" [4mm] brass tube sharpened on the end or a hobby knife to cut a groove for the torque rod and the nylon bearing. Test fit the torque rod and the bearing to the rudder. ❏ 6. Cut a hinge slot in the fin for the bearing, then test fit the rudder and the bearing to the fin. Make adjustments where necessary for a good fit and smooth operation.
SHEET THE AFT END OF THE FUSELAGE ❏ 1. Glue the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" [4.8 x 4.8 x 610mm] balsa stringers into the notches in the formers as shown. As you proceed, make certain the formers are vertical (especially F6) as you glue in the stringers. Glue two shorter stringers along both sides of the fin. Make certain they follow the same contour as the top of the fuselage. ❏ 2. Use four 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm] balsa sheets to sheet the sides and top of the aft end of the fuselage as shown.
❏ 6. Use leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sheets to sheet the remaining open section of the fuselage in two pieces. Do the upper portion first, then the lower portion. ❏ 7. Apply lightweight balsa filler where needed, then sand to blend with the rest of the sheeting. BUILD THE DORSAL FIN ❏ 1. Glue together the two parts of the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] balsa dorsal fin. Glue the dorsal fin, centered, to the fuselage. both sides of the dorsal fin. Note the grain direction. ❏ 2. Glue pieces of leftover 1/16" [1.
❏ 3. Sheet the top of the fuselage over the firewall and 2T with leftover 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa sheeting. Bevel the edges of the sheeting even with the stringers, then finish the top of the fuselage by gluing on leftover 3/8" x 3" [9.5 x 75mm] balsa sheets for the fuselage corners.
❏ 8. Use a ballpoint pen to mark the edges of the cabin frame anywhere it needs to be trimmed to align with the fuselage side stringer. Remove the cabin frame, trim the edges, refit and mark and trim again as necessary until the sides of the cabin frame are even with the side stringer all the way down both sides. ❏ 9. Make spacers for the die-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood cabin top formers F2C and F6C from thin cardstock or double layers of a manila folder— approximately .020" [.5mm] is the desired thickness.
❏ 13. Once satisfied with the fit of the cabin top to the fuselage, roughen the inside of the cabin top with medium-grit sandpaper where it contacts the cabin frame. Reposition the cabin top on the fuselage. Use masking tape to hold it in position wherever necessary so it will not move. ❏ 14. Glue the cabin top to the cabin frame. As can be seen in the photo, thick CA is recommended as it will not wick down past the cabin frame, inadvertently gluing it to the fuselage. Medium CA could also be used.
❏ 3. Test fit the tail cone bottom to the fuselage. Little by little, sand the front edge of the cone where necessary to get a good fit. Hint: Scuff the outside of the cone with 320-grit sandpaper, then use a lead pencil to mark the cone where necessary for trimming. ❏ 4. Cut the remainder of the 3/8" x 3/8" [9.5 x 9.5mm] basswood stick used for mounting the flap and aileron servos into six 3/8" [9.5mm] square tail cone mounting blocks.
❏ 8. Cut twenty-four 3/16" x 1/4" [4.8 x 6.4mm] plastic strips from leftover ABS plastic. Glue the pieces in alternating locations on both halves of the tail cone. Be sure to position the strips where they will not interfere with the mounting blocks or any structure inside the cone. These pieces will align the seam. Test fit the top and bottom cone halves. Make adjustments where necessary. ❏ 9. Connect the rudder pushrod to the rudder servo by making an “L” bend in the pushrod and using a nylon Faslink.
will leave material for adjusting the fit of the cowl to the fuselage. Cut the cowl front 1/8" [3mm] outside the molded-in cutline as well. ❏ 3. Cut out a small corner from the molded-in lip on the left side of the front of the cowl top and from the right side of the front of the cowl bottom. Use a bar sander with coarse sandpaper to true the edges of all three cowl parts. Securely tape the three pieces of the cowl together with masking tape. ❏ 4.
❏ 10. Mark the center of the cowl mounting blocks onto the fuselage. ❏ 11. Tape the cowl to the fuselage. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the cowl and into the cowl mounting blocks 1/4" [6mm] from the front edge of the fuselage. ❏ 12. Remove the cowl. Enlarge the holes in the cowl only with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. Mount the cowl with eight #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.
MOUNT THE WING ❏ 1. Round one end of both 1/4" x 2-1/4" [6.4 x 57mm] hardwood wing dowels. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the dowels into the wing. Allow the epoxy to harden before fitting the wing to the fuselage. ❏ 2. Using the wing bolt holes that are already in the top of the wing as a guide, use a 3/16" [4.8mm] brass tube sharpened on the end or a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill bit to the holes through the bottom sheeting. ❏ 3.
❏ 8. Remove the wing. Tap 1/4-20 holes into the holes drilled in the wing bolt blocks. Add a few drops of thin CA to the threads, allow to fully harden, then retap the threads. ❏ 9. Enlarge the bolt holes in the wing with a 17/64" [6.7mm] drill, then bolt the wing to the fuselage with two 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon wing bolts. Cut holes in the bottom sheeting to accommodate the heads of the bolts. ❏ 10. Test fit the wing to the fuselage and bolt it down with two 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon bolts.
❏ 8. Glue the eight die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa belly pan ribs into position as shown. The outer ribs fit against the belly pan sides. ❏ 9. Mark the location of the wing bolts on the belly pan sides. Remove the wing from the fuselage. ❏ 10. Sheet the belly pan between the belly pan sides using three 3/32"x 3"x 24"[2.4 x 75 x 610mm] balsa sheets. ❏ 11. Using the marks you made on the belly pan sides as an alignment cue, cut holes in the sheeting for the cardboard wing bolt tubes.
❏ 4. Begin with the fin. Cut a piece of covering to the approximate shape, but make sure it is at least two or three inches oversize all the way around (except at the top, where it should align with your trim line (if you are duplicating the trim scheme on the kit box cover). Holding the piece of covering to the fin, use a ballpoint pen to mark the covering where the fin meets the fuselage. ❏ 5. Cut the covering 3/32"[2.4mm] outside the line.
❏ 10. When covering the wings, start with the wing tips, then cover belly pan. First cover the front and back of the belly pan, then apply a 1/4"[6mm] strip of covering as shown. Now cover the bottom of the wing, the belly pan and then the top of the wing to match the trim scheme you have selected. ❏ 11. Flat black MonoKote may be used to simulate the walkway on the right wing and flap. ❏ 12. When covering the ailerons, flaps and rudder, don’t forget to cover the corrugations to match your trim scheme.
❏ 17. Determine how the gold stripes on the fuselage will be done. The recommended way is to use a Top Flite SmartStripe stripe cutting tool to cut 1/4"[6.4mm] stripes from gold MonoKote and iron them into position. It may be helpful to have the “Nnumbers” already in position before applying the gold stripes. Refer to “Apply the Decals” on page 67 for suggestions on how to apply them. When it’s time to add the stripes to the cowl use Great Planes 1/4"[6.4mm] gold striping tape.
❏ 4. Thoroughly scuff the cabin top with 400-grit sandpaper to remove any deep scratches leftover from sanding the fuselage and to provide a surface to which the paint will adhere. Apply strips of tape where necessary to protect the windows. ❏ 5. After sanding the cabin top, apply strips of masking tape over the windows. Using the molded-in window frames as a guide, use a soft, lead pencil to mark the window outlines onto the tape.
❏ 3. Adjust the ailerons so there is a small gap between the leading edge of the ailerons and the wing—just enough to see light through or to slip a piece of paper through. Apply six drops of thin CA to both sides of all the hinges. Wait a few seconds before each drop to make sure it soaks in and does not run into the hinge gap. Any CA that does spill into the gap should quickly be absorbed with a small paper towel square. Hardened CA can be picked away with a #11 blade or removed with CA debonder. ❏ 4.
❏ 9. Now that the servos have been installed in the wing, guide the air lines for the retracts through the wing, then connect the lines to the retracts. Whichever way you connect the colored lines, hook them up the same on both landing gears. Mount the landing gear in the wing. ❏ 10. Glue strips of plastic or balsa across the openings in the wing to retain the air lines and the servo wires so they will not interfere with the landing gear. ❏ 11. Mount the air tank in the fuselage.
❏ 15. Make a mount for the air fill receptacle. Use a 5/16"[8mm] brass tube to cut a hole through the fuselage for the valve, then glue the mount to the inside of the fuselage with the fill receptacle in the hole. ❏ 16. The same as was done for the battery, make a mounting plate for the receiver. Mount the receiver, then glue the mount into position. Note: The three 6"[150mm] servo extensions coming from the receiver protruding through former F3 should actually be 12"[300mm] servo extensions.
❏ 23. If you have not done so already, assemble, paint and install the cockpit kit according to the instructions included with it. Guide and secure the aileron and flap servo extensions under the cockpit floor. MOUNT THE PILOTS Two Williams Brother’s #62600 Sportsman 3"(1/4scale) pilots (WBRQ2626) were mounted in this model. Even though the model is slightly smaller than quarter-scale, these pilots look best. ❏ 1. Make a mounting platform from leftover 3/32"hard balsa.
GLUE ON THE EXTERNAL STRINGERS The Piper Arrow has four external stringers running partway down the bottom of the fuselage. The same as a few of the other scale details on this model, the stringers are optional. ❏ 1. Cut the stringers to the correct length. They run from the aft edge of the cowl to about the leading edge of the flaps. ❏ 2. Paint the stringers to match the trim scheme. ❏ 3. Carefully glue the stringers into position using thin CA.
the servo end of the stabilizer pushrod until the top of the stabilizer control rod is even with the seam between the top and bottom stabilizer mounts. A piece of wire with an L-bend on the end can be used as a “gauge.” With the gauge under the control rod, adjust the elevator until the top of the gauge is even with the seam. Note: The plane in the sketch is upside-down because the model will be upside-down during this procedure. ❏ 4.
BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.) More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.
BALANCE PROPELLERS Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner. 5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not apply to models while being flown indoors. 7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
SECTION 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS All transmitters must be FCC type certified. 6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required for 6 meter band operation only. The following recommendations are included in the Safety Code not to police such items, but rather to offer basic suggestions for enhanced safety. It is expected that IMAA members will avail themselves of technological advances as such become available, to promote the safety of all aircraft and participants.
reason, the fuel mixture should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating. Name Address City, State Zip Phone number AMA number Fill in and place in your model. CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface flutter.
Top Flite® Piper Arrow II Cockpit Kit (TOPQ8414) Great Planes® Super Stearman 1.20 ARF (GPMA1350) Top Wingspan: 71.5 in (1815mm) Bottom Wingspan: 69 in (1755mm) Total Wing Area: 1466 sq in (94.6dm2) Weight: 14-15 lb (6.35-6.8kg) Wing Loading: 22-23.5 oz/sq ft (67-72g/dm2) Length: 56.75 in (1441mm) Requires: 2-stroke or 4-stroke .91-1.20 cu in (15-19.5cc) engine, 4-channel radio w/5-7 servos Add a detailed cockpit to your Piper Arrow II, and you'll win raves on the ground and in the air.
Wingspan: 81 in (2060mm) Wing Area: 1000 sq in (64.5dm2) Weight: 13-14 lb (5.9-6.35kg) Wing Loading: 29-32 oz/sq ft (89-95g/dm2) Length: 62.5 in (1590mm) Requires: 2-stroke .91-1.08 cu in (15-17.5cc) or 4-stroke 1.20 cu in (19.5cc) engine, 5-channel radio w/7 standard servos Great Planes® Giant Super Chipmunk 1.20 ARF (GPMA1303) Wingspan: 84.5 in (2140mm) Wing Area: 1245 sq in (80.3dm2) Weight: 17.5-19 lb (7.9-8.6kg) Wing Loading: 32-35 oz/sq ft (98-107 g/dm2) Length: 73.
2 - View Drawing Use this drawing for trim scheme planning only. Not suitable for scale documentation.
