™ DE MA IN A S U WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BUILDING SEQUENCE INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 ENGINE SELECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 RADIO SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . 3 LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 COMPETITION-MINDED MODELERS. . . . . . . . 4 DOCUMENTATION . . . . . . . . . .
Your Top Flite Gold Edition Giant P-51B is intended for scale and general sport flying including mild aerobatics such as loops, stall turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to withstand such stresses. If you intend to use your P-51B for more abusive types of flying, such as racing or aggressive aerobatics, it is your responsibility to reinforce areas of the model that will be subjected to the resulting unusually high stresses.
LANDING GEAR The Top Flite Giant P-51B is designed for the Robart #622-5 retracts. Robart #675 will work great if you prefer to use fixed main landing gear. SCALE COCKPIT INTERIOR Should you decide to add a complete cockpit interior, you may construct your own completely from scratch, or use parts from the Top Flite Giant Scale P-51D Cockpit Kit as a starting point.
To prevent some of the die-cut parts from falling out of the die sheets, the parts may not be completely cut out. Do not force the parts from the sheets. Use a sharp hobby knife to carefully finish cutting the parts out.
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -6-
DIE-CUT PATTERNS -7-
0" Inch Scale Deg = degrees Fuse = fuselage LE = leading edge Stab = stabilizer Elev = elevator " = inches Ply = plywood TE = trailing edge 1" 0 10 20 30 Metric Scale COMMON ABBREVIATIONS 40 2" 50 TYPES OF WOOD 60 70 3" 80 90 BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD 4" 5" 6" 7" 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 METRIC CONVERSION 1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor) 1" = 25.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 3" = 76.2mm 6" = 152.4mm 12" = 304.8mm 15" = 381mm 18" = 457.2mm 21" = 533.4mm 24" = 609.6mm 30" = 762mm 36" = 914.
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES BUILD THE STABILIZER ❏ 1. Lay the plan of the stab on a flat work surface and cover it with wax paper or Plan Protector. ❏ 6. Use a sanding bar to sand an angle on the LE of the ribs so that the 3/8" x 3/8" LE fits flush on the LE of the ribs. Glue the LE, centered vertically, onto the front edge of ribs S-2 and S-6. ❏ 10. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to build the left half of the stab. The left half of the stab is built next to the right half with the two halves butt glued together.
the die-cut 1/8" balsa S-1 ribs and insert the assembly into position to check the fit. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the assembly into position, making sure all parts are properly aligned and the S-1 jig tabs contact the work surface. ❏ 13. Using medium CA, reinforce any glue joints that do not look strong. D. To make skins the following steps are suggested: ❏ 1. True up the edges of the sheets with a metal straightedge and a sharp knife or a long bar sander. ❏ 14.
❏ 19. Remove the stab from the building surface. Trim off the jig tabs with a sharp knife. Trim and blend the LE and TE to the top of the ribs as you did before in step 15. Check all glue joints, adding glue as necessary. ❏ 23. Sand the ends of the stab skins, LE and TE ❏ 25. If you are building the stab with notches for balance tabs, trim the openings at this time. flush with the sides of the S-6 ribs. Round the LE of the stab to match the stab cross-section shown on the plan. BUILD THE FIN ❏ 1.
❏ 6. Sand the LE to match the ribs on the upward facing side (left side). Sand the ends of the TE flush with the ribs. ❏ 10. If you want to modify the fin for the scale balance tab, now is the time to add the appropriate structure. Refer to the plan for the location and size of the balance tab (parts not included). ❏ 15. If you are building the fin with an opening for the balance tab, trim the opening at this time. BUILD THE RUDDER ❏ 7.
❏ 4. Align the rudder plate over the plan and mark the “rib” locations on both sides of the rudder plate. (See the photo in step 5.) ❏ 10. If you want to modify the rudder for the scale balance tab, now is the time to add the appropriate structure. We made our balance tab from leftover 3/32" balsa sheeting and leftover 1/8" balsa from the die sheets. ❏ 5. Glue the rudder plate, centered, on the rudder LE. Make sure the rudder plate is perpendicular to the rudder LE. BUILD THE WING ❏ 8.
aileron TE (F). Use a sanding bar to taper the two pieces slightly as shown in the wing cross-section drawing on the plan. These pieces are die-cut slightly long to allow you to trim off any imperfections. ❏ ❏ 7. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the pre-assembled ribs W-4 and W-5 to the main spar. Make sure the W-4W and W-5W face each other. ❏ 3. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood wing ribs W-5 between the laser-cut 1/8" birch ply rib doublers W-5W and W-5Z.
CENTER LE ON RIB ❏ ❏ 9. Glue the lower 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa TE spar as far forward as possible in the slots in ribs W-2 through W-8. ❏ ❏ 10. Glue the lower 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" balsa flap LE into the aft portion of the slots in ribs W-2 through W-7, extending to but not glued to the aileron wing TE. There should be a 1/16" gap between the TE spar and the flap LE. ❏ ❏ 11. Repeat steps 9 and 10 for the slot in the upper side of the ribs. ❏ ❏ 12. Check the fit of the upper main spar in the wing ribs.
❏ ❏ 16. Sight down the wing TE to make sure it ❏ ❏ 18. Use the die-cut 1/8" plywood 93Þ tool (93) as shown to mark the ends of the spars and TE’s. ❏ ❏ 20. Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa flap root rib (FL1) flush to the flap LE and flap horn base. is still straight. Shim any low jig tabs if required. From the 3/32" x 3" x 30" balsa sheets, make aft shear webs to fit on the front of the TE spars from rib W-2 to W-8. The shear webs must be glued securely to the TE spars.
needed. The rails will need to be glued into the slots in the ribs at a slight angle so that the retract mounting flanges sit flat. You will need to trim the ribs appropriately. ❏ ❏ 22. Cut eleven 1-1/4" long pieces from the 3/4" x 3/4" x 30" balsa stick to make hinge point backups. Glue the backups at the flap and aileron locations shown on the plan and sand them flush with the edges of the ribs. NOTE: Pay close attention to your retract installation at this time.
❏ 9. When the wing fits on the jig blocks with the aft cross brace (CB) and the two equal length sticks in place, it is time to glue the wing panels together. Coat the mating surfaces of the spars and dihedral braces with 30-minute epoxy. Assemble the wing on the jig blocks. Use CA to tack glue the two equal length sticks into place. Apply 30-minute epoxy on the ends of the aft cross brace and insert into position. Use masking tape or adjustable clamps to hold the assembly together.
around the top of the center tray) to allow for a center doubler of 3/32" balsa center sheeting. Put marks 1-1/8" on each side of the dihedral brace centerline to help in the alignment of the center assembly. ❏ 13. Insert the die-cut 1/8" plywood F-8C into the ❏ 18. Mark a centerline on the wing bolt plate. Mark a line offset 1" on both sides of the centerline. aft end of the radiator assembly. Make sure all the edges are square and properly aligned. Make small adjustments to the notches if required.
SHEET THE BOTTOM OF THE WING ❏ 1. Sort through the remaining 3/32" x 3" x 30" wing sheeting. Pick out the best 3 sheets and set them aside for the top of the wing. Also, from the 3/32" x 3" x 42" balsa wing sheeting, pick out the best 6 sheets and set them aside for the top of the wing. ❏ 2. Notice that the center wing rib W-1 is 3/32" ❏ 21. See the cross-section at W-1 on the fuselage plan for the proper orientation of the angle on the front of the W-1A ribs.
to cut out around the radiator frame. We usually leave about 3/8" overhang where possible. Use a piece of the sheeting you trimmed off to fill in the angled area along the LE. ❏ 12. Trace the shape of the skin onto the other ❏ 16. Repeat the process to install the second bottom wing skin. ❏ 17. Turn the wing over and check all the glue joints applying CA where needed. bottom skin and the two top skins. It is not an exact match, but this will offer an excellent starting point. ❏ 9.
SHEET THE TOP OF THE WING ❏ 1. Trim any remaining jig tabs from the top of the wing. Use a long sanding bar to remove any high spots and excess glue. ❏ 2. Pass a 13/64" drill bit through the holes in the wing bolt plate, drilling through the bottom skin to eliminate any problems finding the holes later. ❏ 6. Tape the wing skin to the LE in a few places. Use thin CA to glue the skin to the LE. ❏ 7. Set the wing horizontally on the table and lift the TE so the wing tilts forward at about 45%. ❏ 8.
BUILD THE AILERONS NOTE: The aileron skin goes from the outside of rib A-1 to the outside of rib A-6. After the top and bottom skins are applied, a 3/32" balsa cap is installed on both ends of the ailerons. Save the excess sheeting to make the aileron end caps. ❏ ❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/4" balsa aft LE (ALE) centered on the die-cut 1/4" balsa forward LE (FLE). ❏❏ ❏ ❏ 4. Glue the aileron LE flush with the forward edge of the bottom skin. The wider end of the LE goes on the wider end of the aileron skin.
BUILD THE FLAPS ❏❏ 11. Use the excess 3/32" balsa trimmed from the aileron skins to make end caps on the ailerons. ❏ 12. Return to step 1 and construct the other aileron. ❏ 3. Saw a 1/8" slot along the joint of the wing tips and glue the braces in the slots with CA. Sand the aft end of the wing tip to match the shape of the wing tip brace. ❏ ❏ 1. Tape the aileron to the wing with a 1/16" gap between the ailerons and the wing tips.
together edgewise to make two flap skins 3/32" x 4-1/2" x 30". Trim the flap skins following the drawing. Save the excess balsa sheet to make the flap end caps. ❏❏ ❏ ❏ 8. Sand the ends of the 1/4" LE’s and the top and bottom flap skins flush with ribs FL-1 and FL-3. Also, sand the forward edge of the 1/4" LE’s flat. 11. Use a Dremel® MultiPro™ with a drum sander or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to sand the ribs flush with the shear webs inside the 1/4" TE spars.
❏ 2. Place wax paper or Plan Protector over your work surface. Reassemble the parts over the plan and check their alignment. For a straight fuselage, it is important to have the fuse sides straight and identical. Use thin and medium CA to glue the parts together. Use a quick wipe with a paper towel to remove excess glue, as this will make sanding easier. Keep in mind that you are making a left and a right fuselage side. ❏ ❏ 14. Tape the flap to the wing. Sand the TE of the wing to match the flap TE angle.
❏ 9. Tape the fuselage bottom view over your flat building surface (we recommend cutting that part of your plan loose to make it easier to handle). Cover the bottom view with wax paper or Plan Protector. IMPORTANT: You are building the fuselage upside-down over the bottom view. This aircraft has right thrust built into the firewall. Since the fuse is built upside-down, this will appear to be left thrust until the fuse is flipped over. Just follow the instruction sequence and the fuse will be correct.
❏ 16. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the die-cut plywood sub-former F-8D to the aft face of former F-8A/B. Make sure the 3/8" holes line up. This assembly is now called F-8. ❏ 19. Fit the right fuselage side into place. Check that all the notches fit properly or make adjustments. Make sure the tip edges of the fuse are against the building surface. ❏ 23.
same technique used with F-10 to hold the fuse sides against the former. Make sure F-11 is perpendicular to the building surface and the embossed number is facing forward. ❏ ❏ 25. Position the retractable tail wheel on the rails and mark the mounting hole locations. Drill a 7/64" pilot hole at each mark. Attach the retractable tail wheel to the rails with #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws. Check that the former does not interfere with the movement of the retractable tail wheel. 27.
INSTALL THE RADIATOR ❏ 35. Glue 3/8" triangle reinforcement at the forward and aft joints between former F-10 and the balsa fuse sides. ❏ 36. Insert the outer pushrod tubes in the holes for the elevator pushrods. Approximately 1" of the guide tube should protrude past former F-11. Insert the pull-pull guide tubes (not included) in the holes for the tail wheel steering. Glue the guide tubes to the formers with medium CA. ❏ 37. Trim the guide tubes 2" in front of former F-8. Save the pieces you cut off.
❏ 6. Glue the radiator corners to the fuse. Wetting these sheets may be required depending on the softness of the wood. You may need to use tape to hold the parts until the glue cures. ❏ 2. On your flat building surface, glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood firewall F-1B to F-1C. Sand both sides of the firewall smooth. ❏ 4. Test fit the firewall assembly into the front of the fuse with F-1B/C facing forward. Check the angle with the firewall gauge. Remember, the crutch and doublers also set right thrust.
❏ 7. Slide the die-cut 1/8" plywood tank floor through the notches in former F-3 and align the forward end of the tank floor with the line you drew on the back of the firewall. Use CA to glue the tank floor in position. ❏ 11. Sand the fuse sides and the 1-1/4" triangle sticks flush with the bottom of former F-3 and the firewall. Use medium CA to glue the chin block to the firewall, former F-3, the fuse sides and the triangle sticks.
ATTACH THE STAB AND FIN ❏ 7. Tape a piece of leftover balsa between the fuse sides at the aft end of the fuse. Insert a T-pin in the leftover balsa on the fuse centerline and tie a string to the pin, which will help with wing alignment. ❏ 1. For scale accuracy, the fuse sides in the area of the stab saddle need to be contoured. Study the cross-sections at formers F-10 and F-11 on the plan as well as the photo. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to obtain the proper shape. ❏ 9.
1-1/16" ❏ 8. Thread a nylon torque rod horn onto each ❏ 4. Use the stab plan to locate the elevator torque rod positions. Cut slots centered in the stab TE for the torque rod guides. Test fit the elevator torque rods in the TE of the stab. elevator torque rod so that the center of the torque rod horn is 1-1/16" from the center of the bend. It’s important that both horns are the same distance from the center of the bend. front and rear of the model.
How To Achieve A Good Solder Joint A. Roughen the area to be soldered with fine sandpaper. Thoroughly clean the area with rubbing alcohol. ❏ 14. Install the two elevator servos, rudder servo B. Assemble the items to be soldered. ❏ 20. Work the fin into position on the stab. Trim and tail wheel steering servo in the fuse. Hook up the radio and center the servo arms on the elevator servos. Thread 4-40 metal clevises onto two 4-40 x 36" threaded pushrods.
NOTE: The elevator skin goes from the outside of rib E-1 to the outside of rib E-6. After the top and bottom skins are applied, a 3/32" balsa cap will be installed on the face of E-1. ❏ ❏ 6. Use a razor plane and sanding bar to blend the sub LE and hinge point backups flush with the upward facing edge of the ribs. Sand the TE of the elevator skin to the same angle as the ribs. ❏ ❏ 3. Place the die-cut 1/8" balsa elevator sub LE on the forward edge of the bottom skin.
❏ 17. Go back to step 2 and construct the other elevator. NOTE: Make sure to construct it over the other elevator plan. ❏ ❏ 14. Drill a 3/32" hole into the elevator for the torque rod, perpendicular to the LE. Make a slot large enough to clear the torque rod from the 3/32" hole to the root end of the fillet block. ENGINE INSTALLATION FUSELAGE COMPLETION ❏ 1. The firewall F-1A has punch marks to locate the centerline of the engine.
a leftover piece of outer pushrod tube. Drill a 3/16" hole through former F-3 so that the outer pushrod tube is aligned with the throttle servo arm. Glue the outer pushrod tube to the firewall and F-3. ❏ 6. On our prototypes we mounted the air retract fill valves to the firewall below the engine. Now is a good time to drill a hole for the air line to pass through the firewall. ❏ 7. Fit a piece of foam rubber on the tank floor. Assemble the fuel tank per the manufacturer's instructions.
more easily, then glue it in position. Glue the other aft deck side to the fuse the same way. ❏ 23. True the top of the aft deck sheeting and 1/4" stringers with a razor plane and a bar sander. ❏ 19. Repeat steps 16 through 18 for the other side of the fuse. ❏❏ 16. Thoroughly wet the outside of the forward deck sheeting with warm water. Allow the water to soak into the wood for a few minutes. Test fit the sheet to the stringers and formers.
❏ 27. Make the cockpit sides as shown on the should align with the bottom edge of the spinner ring and the mark you made on the fuse sides. Notice on the top view of the fuse plan how the cowl sides protrude outward from the fuse and spinner ring about 1/8" to allow for shaping. plan from leftover 1/8" balsa and glue them into position. ❏ ❏ 4. Tack glue the spacers on the spinner ring to the backplate of the spinner. Make sure the spinner ring is centered on the backplate.
ASSEMBLE THE COWL ❏ 10. The cowl corners are made from the remaining 3/8" x 3" x 24" balsa used for the dorsal fin. Fit the cowl corners between the spinner ring and firewall. Once the cowl corners fit properly, glue them in place. ❏ 5. Remove the engine from the fuse and test fit ❏ 1. Trim the left and right cowl halves along the molded cut lines. Note that the right cowl half has a tab along the joint that the left cowl half fits over.
❏ 14. After the filler cures, sand it flush with the plastic. Wet sand the entire cowl with 400-grit sand paper in preparation for primer. BUILD THE WING FILLETS NOTE: There are many techniques to build a wing fillet. Some modelers prefer to carve the entire fillet from balsa. Others use a mixture of epoxy and micro balloons to finish the fillet. If you have a favorite technique, feel free to use it. The technique described below works fine for aircraft covered with MonoKote film. ❏ 8.
❏ 9. Allow the filler to dry completely. It may take area (the shims used to simulate the thickness of the fillet bases in earlier steps should be removed). Bolt the wing firmly onto the fuselage. Check to make sure the wing fits properly along the wing saddle, making adjustments as needed. overnight, depending on the thickness of the filler. ❏ 6. Glue the balsa fillet sheet in place starting in the middle and working toward each end.
INSTALL THE FORWARD WING FAIRING ❏ 1. Install the wing onto the fuse with wax paper or Plan Protector under the front portion of the wing saddle. ❏ 5. Glue the fairing in place. Blend the fairing into the chin block. Use balsa filler to blend the fairing into the wing. ❏ 6. With the bottom cowl installed, use a razor plane and sanding bar to blend the chin block to the cowl. ❏ 3. Glue F-3C to the wing with medium CA. ❏ ❏ FIT THE SCOOP 4.
❏ 12. Before painting the scoop, fill the seams and other imperfections with filler. ❏ 13. After the filler has cured, sand it flush with the plastic. Wet sand the entire cowl with 400-grit sandpaper in preparation for primer. ❏ 6. Trim out the scoop front. Fit and glue it to the scoop sides. ❏ 7. Slide the radiator scoop over the support and into position. It should slide on far enough to overlap F-8C about 1/32". Check for binding or resistance.
❏ 3. Install the flap on the wing and check its fit and range of motion. Make any required adjustments until the flap moves freely through its range of motion (remember the flap is not required to raise above neutral). ❏ 4. Mark a centerline on the LE of the aileron. Shape the LE of the ailerons to the “V” shape as shown below and on the cross-section on the wing plan. B. Using the “bevel to” lines and the centerline as a guide, make the “V” on the LE of the aileron with a razor plane or your bar sander.
INSTALL THE RUDDER PUSHROD ❏ 5. Position the servos on the hatches so that the servo arms are centered in the hatch openings. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue 5/16" x 3/4" x 7/8" basswood servo mounting blocks to the servo hatches. NOTE: Secure the servo mounting blocks by first drilling several 1/16" holes about 3/16" deep into the gluing surface of the basswood blocks. Roughen the servo hatch where the epoxy will be applied. Pack epoxy into the 1/16" holes before clamping the blocks in position. ❏ 9.
RETRACT INSTALLATION securely to the rudder. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the base to the rudder, making sure to work epoxy into the 1/8" holes. ❏ 1. Enlarge the retract opening in the bottom wing skin and mount the retracts on the retract rails. ❏ 4. Reinstall the rudder, position the rudder control horn on the rudder base and mark the mounting hole locations.
NOTE: Fuelproof the wheel wells. Die-cut 1/8" plywood main gear doors are provided in the kit if you prefer to install them. ❏ 5. Install the 1-3/4" tailwheel (not included) on the retractable tail gear (not included). Move the retractable tail gear through its full range of motion to check for any binding or interference. ❏ 9. Install the retract servo on the servo rails in ❏ 6. Sand the bottom of the aft fuselage sides flush with formers F-10 and F-11. front of former F-5.
antenna. Glue the antenna holder to the inside of the top of the canopy aligning it with the slot. Test fit your antenna but do not glue it in place. You can remove the antenna for transportation and install it when you get to the flying field. Paint your antenna or cover it with MonoKote film. through the covering material; therefore, before covering, you should make a final check of the entire structure. Fix any “dings” before sanding the entire structure.
Suggested Covering Sequence Fuse: 1. Bottom, then top of stab 2. Fin (olive drab on our prototype) 3. Aft, then forward fuse bottom 4. Nose checkers (see HOW TO APPLY THE NOSE CHECKERS) 5. Wing fillets 6. Fuse sides (up to forward and aft deck) 7. Olive drab on aft, then forward fuse top (overlap nose checkers 1/8") 8. Elevators and rudder 9. Invasion stripes on stab Wing: 1. Hidden areas and corners such as the TE in the flap and aileron area 2. Forward wing fairing on bottom of wing 3.
❏ 12. For the ultimate finish, lightly wet-sand the checkers only with 600-grit sandpaper (do not sand the aluminum), then coat the entire cowl with a coat of Crystal Clear LustreKote. ❏ 13. No warbird is complete without panel lines. Panel lines set your model apart from others along the flight line and “bring it to life.
❏ 3. Apply petroleum jelly to the hinge joints to prevent epoxy from gluing the hinge joints. Glue the torque rod wires and hinges in the elevators and stab with 30-minute epoxy. ❏ 4. Install the ailerons with their hinges. Repeat the gluing technique described previously and allow the epoxy to cure. ❏ 7. Install the receiver switch and connect the receiver battery. Wrap the receiver battery in foam. Secure the battery in the fuselage. gluing on canopies such as Pacer “Formula 560” canopy glue.
Note: If your radio does not have dual rates, set the control surfaces to move between the high rate and low rate throws. 4-9/16" We recommend the following control surface throws: High rate Low rate Elevator 9/16" up 9/16" down 3/8" up 3/8" down Rudder 1-1/2" left 1-1/2" right 1" left 1" right Ailerons 3/4" up 5/8" down 1/2" up 3/8" down Flap Positions 7/8" and 2-1/8" down We added about 20% exponential to the elevator. This reduces the sensitivity of the elevator at the neutral position.
PREFLIGHT At this time check all connections including servo horn screws, clevises, servo cords and extensions. Make sure you have installed the nylon retainer on the Screw-Lock Pushrod Connector and the silicone retainers on all the clevises. CHARGE THE BATTERIES Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction manual. You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop. Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller. Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller. The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after operation.
throttle trim, however, other methods are acceptable. This requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition engines regardless of size. Section 6.0: RADIO REQUIREMENTS 6.1 All transmitters must be FCC type certified. 6.2 FCC Technician or higher-class license required for 6 meter band operation only. engine size relative to airframe strength and power loading mandates good discretionary judgement by the designer and builder. Current AMA maximums for engine displacement are 6.0 cu. in. for two-stroke and 9.
Hinges should be rated heavy duty and manufactured for Giant Scale use primarily. Homemade and original design hinges are acceptable if determined to be adequate for the intended use. Clevis (steel, excluding heavy-duty ball links) and attachment hardware should be heavy duty 4-40 threaded rod type. 2-56 threaded size rod is acceptable for some applications (e.g. throttle). Clevis is to have lock nuts and sleeve or spring keepers.
FLIGHT LOG DATE COMMENTS Started Construction Finished Construction First Flight - 59 -
2-VIEW Photocopy this page and use the copy to plan your trim scheme.
