How-To Guide

Some models are shipped
with tape holding some of
the parts together. Before
proceeding, remove the
tape and use small paper
towel squares dampened
with naptha (lighter fl uid)
to wash off any glue left
behind. Later, after you have
tightened all the covering,
CA debonder may be used
to clean off any pigmented
adhesive that gets deposited
on the model.
A model airplane covering iron with a protective cloth
cover will be required. The Coverite
21st Century
®
Sealing Iron (COVR2700) is recommended because
it has a contoured shoe, a calibrated temperature
dial and a long cord. A covering cloth protects the
covering and balsa underneath, but more importantly,
distributes heat from the iron more evenly. The cover
cloth for the Coverite iron is the 21st Century Cover
Sock (COVR2702).
After attaching the covering sock to your iron, the next
thing to do is set the iron to the correct temperature
for the covering that is on your model. If your model is
covered with Top Flite
®
MonoKote
®
and you are using
the 21st Century covering iron, set the temperature dial
to 325°F [160°C]. This should provide an actual surface
temperature on the bottom of the sock-covered iron of
approximately 280°F [140°C].
If you do not have a 21st Century covering iron or if
you are not certain what covering was used, you can
determine the ideal iron temperature yourself. Most
coverings work best using as much heat as possible, but
not so hot as to cause seams to pull away or the covering
to form “bubbles” over where it is attached to wood. To
nd the optimum temperature, set the dial on your iron
to a medium/low heat. While pressing down on the iron,
glide it over covering on part of the model that is over
wood, such as leading edge sheeting or the bottom of
the fuselage. Observe the covering to see if any bubbles
appear. If bubbles do appear, the covering is too hot. Try
using a lower temperature until you can get the covering
to shrink and stick without bubbles forming.
If no bubbles appear, try more heat and repeat the test
until you can “zero in” on a temperature that will get the
covering to stick and shrink the most without causing
the seams to pull away or bubbles to form.
Once the ideal iron temperature has been determined
you are ready to begin. There are three objectives:
1) Remove wrinkles.
2) Tighten areas of loose covering (even if there are
no wrinkles visible).
3) Over framework and sheeting, securely bond the
covering to the wood.* To do all three correctly,
and to provide lasting results, you should go over
the entire model–including areas where loose
covering or wrinkles may not currently be present.
For most medium-sized models, this should take
about an hour.
*Even though there are no wrinkles and all the covering appears to be
tight, do not skip Step 3. Wherever the covering is over wood it must
be stuck down. Otherwise, over time or in the heat of the sun, bubbles
or other areas of covering that aren’t bonded to the wood may turn
into wrinkles.
Due to the nature of mass production, your ARF model’s factory-applied covering will probably require some attention to make it look the best that it can. Its appearance
can also be affected by variations in temperature and humidity between the time covering was applied and the time you remove your new model from the box. Please note
that removing wrinkles by hastily going over them with a heat gun or a covering iron will not provide the best, longest-lasting result. You should take your time to diligently
go over the entire model with a covering iron as described below.
HOW TO TIGHTEN COVERING ON ARF MODELS
HOW TO TIGHTEN COVERING ON ARF MODELS

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