Operator's Manual

24
Danger
If the blade is allowed to wear, a slot will form
between the sail and flat part of the blade
(Fig. 32-C). Eventually a piece of the blade may
break off and be thrown from under the housing,
possibly resulting in serious injury to you or
bystanders.
• Inspect the blade periodically for wear or
damage.
• Never try to straighten a blade that is bent or
weld a broken or cracked blade.
• Replace a worn or damaged blade.
SHARPEN AT THIS
ANGLE ONLY
END VIEW OF
BLADE
Figure 33
Correcting Cutting Unit
Mismatch
If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will
appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be
corrected by making sure that the blades are straight and all
of the blades are cutting on the same plane.
1. Using a 3 foot (1 meter) long carpenters level, find a
level surface on the shop floor.
2. Raise the height-of-cut to the highest position; refer to
Adjusting the Height-Of-Cut, page 13.
3. Lower the cutting unit onto the flat surface. Remove the
covers from the top of the cutting unit.
4. Rotate the blades until the ends face forward and
backward. Measure from the floor to the front tip of the
cutting edge. Remember this dimension. Then rotate the
same blade so that the opposite end is forward, and
measure again. The difference between the dimensions
must not exceed 1/8 in. (3 mm). If the dimension
exceeds 1/8 in. (3 mm), replace the blade because it is
bent. Make sure to measure all of the blades.
5. Compare the measurements of the outer blades with the
the center blade. The center blade must not be more
than 3/8 in. (10 mm) lower than the outer blades. If the
center blade is more than 3/8 in. (10 mm) lower than the
outer blades, proceed to step 6 and add shims between
the spindle housing and the bottom of the cutting unit.
6. Remove the capscrews, flat washers, lock washers, and
nuts from the outer spindle in the area where the shims
must be added. To raise or lower the blade, add a shim,
Part No. 3256-24, between the spindle housing and the
bottom of the cutting unit. Continue to check the
alignment of the blades and add shims until the tips of
the blades are within the required dimension.
Important Do not use more than three shims at any one
hole location. Use decreasing numbers of shims in adjacent
holes if more than one shim is added to any one hole
location.
7. Install the belt covers.
Replacing the Drive Belt
The blade drive belt, tensioned by the spring loaded idler
pulley, is very durable. However, after many hours of use,
the belt will show signs of wear. Signs of a worn belt are:
squealing when belt is rotating, blades slipping when
cutting grass, frayed edges, burn marks and cracks. Replace
the belt if any of these conditions are evident.
1. Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor. Remove the
belt covers from the top of the cutting unit and set the
covers aside.
2. Using a torque wrench or similar tool, move the idler
pulley (Fig. 34) away from the drive belt to release the
belt tension and allow the belt to be slipped off the
gearbox pulley (Fig. 35).
1
Figure 34
1. Idler pulley