Part No. 92801SL, Rev. I Service Manual Groundsmaster 300 Series ® Groundsmaster 328-D Preface Use this book along with the Toro Operator’s Manual and Parts Catalog for the specific model and serial number of the machine, and the Kubota 05 Series Workshop Manual. This publication will provide the service technician with information for troubleshooting, testing, and repair of major systems and components on the Groundsmaster 345, 322-D and 325-D (Model 30788 and 30795).
Table Of Contents Chapter 1 - Safety Chapter 6 - Electrical System Safety Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 - 1 Wiring Schematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 2 Special Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 3 Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 345) . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 6 Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D) . . . . . 6 - 12 Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 - 18 Repairs . . .
Chapter 11 - 72″ Cutting Units Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Information. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Adjustments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 - 2 11 - 3 11 - 4 11 - 5 11 - 8 Chapter 12 - Triflex® 88″ Cutting Unit Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chapter 1 Safety While Doing Maintenance, Troubleshooting, Testing, Adjustments or Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Before Operating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 While Operating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Safety Instructions The Groundsmaster 300 Series was tested and certified by TORO for compliance with the B71.4 1984 specifications of the American National Standards Institute.
10. Sit on the seat when starting the engine and operating the machine. 11. On machines equipped with roll-over protection (ROPS), always use seat belt and ROPS together. Make sure seat pivot retaining pin is installed. 12. Before starting the engine: If movement is evident, the neutral return mechanism is adjusted incorrectly. Shut engine off and adjust until machine does not move when traction pedal is released. 13. Do not run the engine in a confined area without adequate ventilation.
27. Before getting off the seat: B. Set the parking brake and disengage the PTO. A. Move traction pedal to neutral position and remove foot from pedal. C. Shut the engine off and remove key from ignition switch. Wait for all movement to stop before getting off the seat. While Doing Maintenance, Troubleshooting, Testing, Adjustments or Repairs 28. Remove key from ignition switch to prevent accidental starting of the engine when servicing, adjusting, or storing the machine. 29.
43. Wear safety glasses, goggles or a face shield to prevent possible eye injury when using compressed air for cleaning or drying components. 44. Failure to follow proper procedures when mounting a tire on a wheel or rim can produce an explosion which may result in serious injury. Do not attempt to mount a tire unless you have the proper equipment and experience to perform the job. Have it done by your Toro Distributor or a qualified tire service.
Chapter 2 Product Records and Manuals Table of Contents 1 2 2 2 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Capscrew Markings and Torque Values - U.S. . . 3 Capscrew Markings and Torque Values - Metric . 3 EQUIPMENT OPERATION AND SERVICE HISTORY REPORT FORM Record information about your Groundsmaster 345, 322-D or 325-D on the Equipment Operation and Service History Report Form. Use this information when referring to your machine.
Equivalents and Conversions Decimal and Millimeter Equivalents ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ Fractions Decimals mm Fractions Decimals mm ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ 1/64 0.015625 1/32 ––––– 0.03125 3/64 0.046875 1/16 –––––––––––– 0.0625 5/64 0.078125 3/32 ––––– 0.9375 7/64 0.109275 1/8 ––––––––––––– 0.1250 9/64 0.140625 5/32 ––––– 0.15625 11/64 0.
Torque Specifications Use these torque values when specific torque values are not given. DO NOT use these values in place of specified values. Torque values listed are for lubricated threads. Plated threads are considered to be lubricated. Capscrew Markings and Torque Values - U.S.
Torque Specifications Page 2 - 4 Rev.
EQUIPMENT OPERATION AND SERVICE HISTORY REPORT for GROUNDSMASTER® 345 Unit Model and Serial Number: __________-__________ Deck Model and Serial Number: __________-__________ Engine Numbers: ____________________ Transmission Numbers: ____________________ Drive Axle(s) Numbers: ____________________ Date Purchased: ____________________ Warranty Expires__________ Purchased From: ____________________ ____________________ ____________________ Contacts: Parts ____________________ Phone _____________
GROUNDSMASTER® 345 Maintenance Schedule Minimum Recommended Maintenance Intervals: Maintenance Procedure Check Battery Fluid Level Check Battery Cable Connections Maintenance Interval & Service Every 50hrs Every 100hrs Every 200hrs Every 400hrs Lubricate All Grease Fittings Lubricate Brake Cables Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment Check PTO Belt Adjustment Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup, and Baffle A Level Service ‡ Chang
GROUNDSMASTER® 345 Daily Maintenance Check List Unit Designation:__________ TORO ID#:_______-_______ Daily Maintenance:(duplicate this page for routine use) Daily Maintenance Check For Week Of _____________ Maintenance Check Item MON TUES WED THURS FRI SAT SUN _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS Safety Interlock Operation Grass Deflector in Down Position Brake Operation Fuel Level Engine Oil Level Cooling System Fluid Level Dust Cup and Baffle (Air Filter) Radiator & Screen for
A B C D Inspect Cooling System Hoses A-Service required ________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________ Lubricate All Grease Fittings Lubricate Brake Cables Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment Check PTO Belt Adjustment Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup, and Baffle ________________________________ ____________
EQUIPMENT OPERATION AND SERVICE HISTORY REPORT for GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D Unit Model and Serial Number: __________-__________ Deck Model and Serial Number: __________-__________ Engine Numbers: ____________________ Transmission Numbers: ____________________ Drive Axle(s) Numbers: ____________________ Date Purchased: ____________________ Warranty Expires__________ Purchased From: ____________________ ____________________ ____________________ Contacts: Parts ____________________ Phone __
GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D Maintenance Schedule Minimum Recommended Maintenance Intervals: Maintenance Procedure Check Battery Fluid and Cable Connections Lubricate Grease Fittings Maintenance Interval & Service Every 50hrs Every 100hrs Every 200hrs Every 400hrs Lubricate Brake Cables Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment Change Engine Oil Check PTO Belt Tension Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup and Baffle A Level Service ‡
GROUNDSMASTER® 322-D and 325-D Daily Maintenance Check List Unit Designation:__________ TORO ID#:_______-_______ Daily Maintenance:(duplicate this page for routine use) Daily Maintenance Check For Week Of _____________ Maintenance Check Item MON TUES WED THURS FRI SAT SUN _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS _____HRS Safety Interlock Operation Grass Deflector in Down Position Brake Operation Fuel Level Engine Oil Level Cooling System Fluid Level Drain Water/Fuel Separator Dust Cup and Baf
A B C D Inspect Cooling System Hoses A-Service required ________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________ ________________________________ Lubricate Brake Cables Check Cutting Unit Gear Box Oil Level Clean Under Cutting Unit Belt Covers Check Cutting Unit Drive Belt Adjustment Change Engine Oil Check PTO Belt Tension Inspect Air Filter, Dust Cup and Baffle ________________________________ _____________________________
Chapter 3 (For Groundsmaster 345 only) Ford VSG-411 Engine Table of Contents SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement . . . . . . ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alternator Belt Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Coolant Fan Belt Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Governor Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
General Information Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement Since air gap between center and side electrodes increases gradually during normal engine operation, check condition of electrodes at 100 hour intervals. The correct spark plugs to use in the engine are Motorcraft AGSF22C or AGRF22 or equivalent. Set air gap at 0.040 in. (1.0 mm). 1. Clean area around spark plugs so dirt does not fall into cylinder when plugs are removed. 2. Pull wire off spark plugs and remove plugs from cylinder head. 3.
Adjustments Alternator Belt Adjustment (Fig. 1) A new alternator belt is to be tensioned to 65 lbs. A used belt is to be re-tensioned to 40 lbs. 1. To adjustable tension, loosen bolt securing brace to engine, bolt securing alternator to brace and alternator mounting bolts. 2. Insert pry bar between alternator and engine and pry out on alternator. 3. Hold alternator in position after proper tension is achieved and tighten alternator and brace bolts to secure adjustment. Figure 1 1. Alternator 2.
Governor Adjustment (Fig. 3, 4) 1. With engine shut off, move throttle control to FAST position and open hood. Check between throttle arm and stop on carburetor base to make sure there is a 1/32 in. (0.8 mm) gap. If gap is not correct, adjust throttle rod by turning ball joint ends until gap is 1/32 in. (0.8 mm). If gap is correct, to to step 2. WARNING Engine must be running so final adjustment of governor can be performed.
5. Release throttle arm, loosen jam nut on governor low idle stop screw and adjust it to get 1500 ± 100 rpm. Tighten jam nut. 6. Slowly move throttle to FAST position until engine speed reaches 3200 ± 100 rpm. Shut off engine. Adjust high idle stop screw until it contacts speed control lever. IMPORTANT: Do not over-speed the engine because the transmission could be damaged. 7. Move throttle rapidly from SLOW to FAST. The engine should not surge. If engine surges, go to step 8. 8.
Repairs Crankshaft Pulley Installation 1. Insert three of four locking rings into crankshaft pulley. NOTE: Outside locking rings have tapered I.D. and flat O.D. Inside locking rings have flat I.D. and tapered O.D. A. Install first outside ring seated against small internal shoulder of pulley, flat edge of ring touching small pulley shoulder. B. Install second inside ring, mating taper to taper with first ring. C. Install third outside ring with flat edge against previous inside ring. D.
Engine Removal and Installation Removing the Engine 14. Remove fuel line from inlet side of fuel pump. 1. Put machine on a level surface, stop engine, remove key from ignition switch and engage parking brake. NOTE: Be prepared to insert a plug into fuel line to prevent fuel spill. 2. Remove intake hose from air cleaner and carburetor. 15. Remove capscrews securing fan shroud to radiator so fan shroud can be move during engine removal for cooling fan clearance. 3.
Engine Repair Information Ford VSG-411 Component Changes Ford VSG-411 engines with a date code of 2D21 or later have five (5) main bearings, which is the same design used on the VSG-413 engine. VSG-411 engines produced before this date have four (4) main bearings (see Page 1-01, under IDENTIFICATION in the Ford VSG-411/413 Engine Service Manual for an explanation of Ford corporate date system).
Chapter 4 (For Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) Mitsubishi K3D Diesel Engine Table of Contents For Groundsmaster 328-D, use the Toro Operator's Manual and Parts Catalog along with the Kubota 05 Series Workshop Manual (Toro Part No. 01090SL). INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Introduction This chapter gives information about specifications, maintenance, troubleshooting, testing and repair of the diesel engine used in the Groundsmaster® 322-D and 325-D mower. Most repairs and adjustments require tools which are commonly available in many service shops. Special tools are described in the Special Tools section.
Specifications The illustrations (Figs. 2a and 2b) give information about the general construction of the engine. Refer to the specifications listed in this section when performing tests on the engine or examining parts for wear. Some specifications are included in the service procedures later in this chapter. Figure 2a Figure 2b 1. Cooling fan 2. Water oulet fitting 3. Intake valve 4. Exhaust valve 5. Water pump pulley 6. Water pump 7. Piston 8. Connecting rod 9. Fan belt 10. Crank pulley 11.
General ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Item Specification ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Make/Designation Mitsubishi K3D-61TG, overhead valve, vertical in-line, 4 cycle diesel ______________________________________________________________________________________
Engine ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Governor Mechanical/Centrifugal ________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Engine (cont.
Engine (cont.) ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Main Bearings Oil Clearance Undersize 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 mm (0.01, 0.02, 0.03 in.
Fuel System ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Fuel Pump Delivery Rate 225 cc (13.73 in3) or more (15 sec.
Electrical System ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Item Standard Specification Repair Limit Service Limit ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Starter Type Nominal Output Direction of Rotation No-load Characteristics (Cold) Terminal Voltage/Current Speed Height of Brush
Tightening Torque The Mitsubishi diesel engine has many bolts and capscrews of special materials and sizes. It is very important that special care be used to replace all bolts and capscrews in their proper location during assembly of the engine. The torque specifications in American Standard and Metric as listed below MUST be followed in order to have the assembled engine conform to the original specifications.
Special Tools Order special tools from T O R O S P E C IA L T O O L S A N D A P P L IC AT IO N S G U ID E (C o m m e rcial P ro d u c ts). Some tools may be available from a local supplier. Filter Cleaner (Fig. 3) Filter cleaner. Mix with water and use solution to wash the Donaldson air cleaner element. Figure 3 Diesel Engine Compression Test Kit (Fig. 5) Diesel engine compression test kit. 0-1000 PSI Gauge allows testing of diesel engines to check general operating condition of engine.
Nozzle Tester (Fig. 7) Nozzle tester tests condition and opening pressure of fuel injector nozzles. Figure 7 Nozzle Tester Adapter (Fig. 8) Nozzle tester adapter is required to test the fuel injection nozzles. Figure 8 Camshaft Bushing Tool (Fig. 9) The camshaft bushing removal and installation tool is used in conjunction with a soft metal hammer to remove or install the camshaft bushing in the Mitsubishi K3D engine.
Adjustments Valve Clearance (Fig. 10, 11, 12) Check the valve clearance after the first 50 hours of operation and every 400 hours of operation after that. 1. The engine must be cold when the valve clearance is checked. 2. Remove the air breather hose from the rocker cover. 3. Remove the rocker cover nuts and washers. Remove the rocker cover. 4. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the proper torque. The rocker assembly must be removed before tightening the cylinder head bolts.
Engine Speed Adjustments (Fig. 13, 14) Adjustments to the engine speed settings are not normally necessary unless the throttle linkage, injection pump, or governor mechanism have been repaired, rebuilt, replaced or are not operating correctly. Since there is no ignition system from which to power an electronic tachometer, a vibration-type tachometer must be used to set engine speed. NOTE: This engine is equipped with a special damper spring (Fig.
Throttle Linkage Adjustment (Fig. 15) 1. Loosen the capscrew and nut securing the throttle cable to throttle lever. 2. Push the governor lever all the way back so it is contacting the high speed set screw. 3. Move the throttle lever to the maximum speed position (all the way forward). 4. Tighten the cap screw and nut securing the throttle cable to the governor lever. 5. Make sure the throttle cable conduit does not interfere with the full range of motion of the throttle lever or governor lever.
Troubleshooting Page 4 - 16 Groundsmaster® 300 Series
Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 4 - 17 Troubleshooting
Testing Glow Plug Test (Fig. 16) Be careful while handling or testing glow plugs. Glow plugs become extremely hot. Accidental contact with the heated plug tip could cause personal injury. 1. Disconnect the wire lead(s) to the glow plug. 2. Remove the glow plug. 3. Inspect the glow plug for signs of a burnt glow plug end tube. Figure 16 NOTE: If the metal of the glow plug end is melted, it is a sign of cylinder overheating. (See Engine Overheats in the Troubleshooting section of this chapter.) 4.
Compression Test (Fig. 17) Normal cylinder compression is 32 kg/cm2 (455 psi) at 280 rpm (normal cranking speed). The engine should be warm - coolant temperature of 50o C (120o F). IMPORTANT: DO NOT put oil into the combustion chamber before performing a compression test. Damage may result because of “hydraulic” forces acting upon the piston and connecting rod. 1. Remove the glow plug lead wires and glow plugs from all three cylinders. 2. Insert the compression gauge adapter into the glow plug hole.
Nozzle Tests (Fig. 18, 19) There are several tests to examine the condition of the injection nozzles. These tests require the use of a nozzle tester and nozzle tester adapter. (See the Special Tools section of this chapter.) 3. Allow pressure to dissipate before performing the test. 4. Operate the pump handle slowly and observe the gauge to determine the pressure at which the nozzle opens and the fuel is sprayed. 5.
6. While pressure is being applied, watch for an accumulation of fuel at the tip of the nozzle (Fig. 18). A small amount of fuel may be present due to a previous chattering test - this would be normal. If the fuel accumulates and drips down during the test (about ten seconds) the nozzle assembly is defective and must be replaced. Spray Test For proper combustion, the nozzle must effectively atomize the injected fuel. 1. Operate the pump handle at a rate of 20 - 30 strokes per minute. 2.
Injection Pump Test D. Put the throttle control in the FAST position. Turn the ignition key to the START position to crank the engine. Observe the nozzle. Calibration of fuel delivery volumes, pressure and distribution between pump barrels should be performed by a professional diesel engine service shop. Special test fixtures and equipment are required. It is possible to determine if the fuel injection pump requires service through a process of elimination using other fuel system tests.
Injection Timing Test (Fig. 20, 21) Injection timing can be adjusted by installing shims under the pump body. The timing is important because it determines when the fuel enters the combustion chamber. The most accurate method of timing is done with an electronic diesel timing tester (available from major tool supply companies). The following method is an initial setting for starting the machine. 1. Remove the number one injection pipe from both the pump and nozzle.
Fuel Pump Test (Fig. 22) 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Test for pump operation by listening for the pump oscillating sound, or by feeling for vibration which indicates the pump is operating. 2. If no pumping action occurs when the ignition switch is turned on, connect a 12 volt DC battery directly to the pump (Fig. 22). If the pump now operates, check for an electrical failure of the pump circuit, eg. fuses, connections, wires, etc. 3.
Preparation for Engine Repair 1. Before cleaning and disassembly, carefully check for problems that cannot be found after the engine has been cleaned or disassembled (e.g. oil leaks from cracked components, gaskets or loose fittings, damaged air cleaner or breather hoses that could cause cylinder wear, etc.). Make a note of any problems that you find. 2. Clean or wash the engine exterior thoroughly before disassembly. engine oil to disassembled parts, as necessary to prevent rust. 5.
External Engine Component Repair In this section, repairs to the external engine components will be outlined. These are repairs which can be accomplished without removing the engine from the mower frame. They are: Crankcase Breather Fan, Pulley, Bearing and Shaft Repair or Replacement Oil Pressure Switch Replacement Oil Pump Stop Solenoid Replacement Water Pump Replacement Crankcase Breather System (Fig. 24) The crankcase breather system is shown in the illustration.
Alternator Belt Service (Fig. 25) 1. Unlatch and open hood. 2. Check tension by depressing belt midway between alternator and crankshaft pulleys. Belt should deflect 7/16 in. (11 mm). If deflection is incorrect, proceed to step 3. If correct, continue operation. 3. Loosen bolt securing brace to engine and bolt securing alternator to brace. 4. Insert pry bar between alternator and engine and pry out alternator. 5.
Fan, Fan Pulley and Fan Shaft Service (Fig. 27) Fan Assembly Removal Fan Assembly Inspection 1. Park the machine on a level surface, turn engine off, remove key from switch, and apply the parking brake. 1. Inspect fan for cracks; replace fan if damaged. 2. Remove five capscrews which secure fan belt guard and remove guard. 3. Loosen locknut securing idler pulley. Slide pulley to right to remove tension from fan V-belt and slip belt off of flywheel and fan pulleys. 2.
Fan Assembly Installation 1. Clean inside of pulley end of tube and outside diameter of pulley end bearing. Apply Loctite #609 (or equivalent) to outside diameter of bearing and press bearing into pulley end of tube. 4 2 6 7 7 1 3 2 1 4. Position woodruff key in fan shaft and slide pulley onto shaft. Fit flat washer and shim washer(s) to shaft and install slotted hex nut. Torque nut from 50 to 70 ft–lb (68 to 94 N–m). 5. Position woodruff key in fan shaft and slide fan hub onto shaft.
This page is intentionally blank. External Engine Components Repair Page 4 – 28.2 Rev.
Glow Plug Replacement If a glow plug has been determined to be defective by failing the glow plug test, it should be replaced. 3. Remove the defective glow plug from its mounting hole. 1. Remove the nut and lead wire. 4. Install the replacement glow plug. Torque the glow plug to 11 - 14.5 ft-lb (1.5 - 2 KgM). 2. Clean the area around the glow plug to prevent dirt or grit from falling into the glow plug hole and the cylinder during replacement. 5. Reinstall the lead wires and nuts.
Oil Pump Servicing The oil pump is a trochoid gear type pump, mounted to the rear of the fuel injection pump, and driven by the fuel injection pump camshaft. The pump houses a check valve which opens to the oil pan when the pump delivery pressure exceeds 57 psi (393 kPa), thereby preventing excessive oil pressure. Disassembly of Oil Pump (Fig. 29) 1. Drain the engine oil. 2. Remove the oil filter. The use of a filter wrench may be necessary. Figure 29 3.
Oil Pump Reassembly (Fig. 33) 1. Install the Plunger, Spring, Gasket and Plug of the Oil Relief Valve into the Pump Cover. 2. Verify that the dowel pins are in place, and install the 0-ring in the pump body (if replaced or removed). 3. Place the Rotor Assembly into the Pump Body. Apply oil to the rotating parts. NOTE: The Inner and Outer Rotors have a dimple which faces outward from the Pump Body. 4.
Stop Solenoid Replacement (Fig. 34) The Mitsubishi engine uses an electrical solenoid to shut off the fuel supply and stop the engine. An emergency stop lever is provided in case the stop solenoid fails. If a solenoid failure is suspected, it can be checked by attaching 12 VDC battery leads to the solenoid terminals. If the solenoid operates when battery contact is make the stopping failure is elsewhere in the electrical system (refer to Chapter 6). 1.
Water Pump Servicing The water pump is a centrifugal impeller type pump which is mounted on the front upper part of the cylinder block. The pump bearings and seals are not serviceable. Water Pump Removal 1. Drain the coolant from the radiator and cylinder block (drain plug on the left-hand side of the block). Water Pump Inspection 1. Inspect all hoses for cracks or leaks. 2. Rotate the water pump impeller and shaft.
Fuel System Service When cleaning the engine, DO NOT spray water onto a hot injection pump. This could cause the fuel pump to seize and be damaged. When working on the fuel system, ALWAYS make sure that the equipment and work area is clean. The close tolerance parts of the fuel system can be easily damaged by dirt. Wash fuel system parts in clean fresh diesel fuel. If parts are removed for a period of time, store them in containers of clean diesel fuel to prevent corrosion. Bleeding the Fuel System (Fig.
Bleeding Air From the Injectors (Fig. 37) This procedure should only be used if the fuel system has been purged of air. (See Bleeding the Fuel System in this section of the book.) 1. Loosen the pipe connection at the number 1 nozzle and holder assembly on the cylinder head . 2. Move the throttle control to the FAST position. 3. Turn the ignition key to the START position to crank the engine and pump fuel to the nozzles.
5. Carefully remove the spring retainer from the end of the plunger tube. Remove the washer, o-ring, valve, plunger spring and plunger. IMPORTANT: Be careful not to bend or deform the plunger tube while disassembling the fuel pump. If the plunger tube is bent, the fuel pump plunger will bind and the pump will need to be replaced. 6. Install the plunger (valve side out), plunger spring, valve, o-ring, washer and spring retainer. Make sure the plunger operates freely. 7.
Governor Mechanism Operation Operation of the governor keeps the engine speed constant as the centrifugal force acting on the governor weights balances with the tension of the governor spring. As the engine speed increases the governor weights will open, forcing the end of the sliding shaft against the governor lever.
Injection Pump Servicing (Fig. 41) A built-in three-cylinder injection pump is mounted on the right-hand side of the cylinder block. It consists of a pump element (plunger and barrel assembly), a delivery valve, a tappet and a smoke set unit. As the pump cam rotates, the plunger is moved up and down through a prescribed stroke, delivering fuel to the engine cylinders. A key operated stop system is provided.
Control Rack Smoke Set and Ungleich Device (Fig. 42, 43, 44) The injection pump on the is equipped with a mechanism that allows for over injection of fuel during starting, and thereafter limits the amount of fuel delivered during operation to reduce excessive exhaust smoke. These devices, the smoke set plate and Ungleich set plate, are located on the side of the injection pump and operate by limiting the travel of the control rack.
Delivery Valve Operation (Fig. 45) The delivery valve serves two functions. First, the valve opens to deliver fuel to the delivery pipe when the pressure generated by the stroke of the plunger within the barrel is sufficiently high. The pressure must be high enough to cause the injector nozzle to open. Second, after injection into the cylinder the Delivery Valve closes, reducing the pressure within the delivery pipe to nearly zero while preventing fuel from flowing from the tube.
Injection Pump Disassembly (Fig. 47) The injection pump may be disassembled to replace worn, damaged or defective components according to the following procedures: IMPORTANT: Clean external engine area near injection pump before disassembly. Do not spray water on a hot injection pump. Do not remove Inter-cylinder adjusting plates unless necessary. If necessary, scribe plates and housing carefully to ensure exact repositioning upon reinstallation.
Injection Pump Inspection (Fig. 48) 1. Inspect the contact surfaces of the delivery valve seat. Replace the Delivery Valve Assembly if defective. 2. Inspect the plunger and barrel for wear, damage or rust. Check to see that the plunger slides smoothly in the barrel. Replace the Pump Element Sub-Assembly if defective. 3. Inspect the Control Rack and Pinions for worn or damaged teeth. Replace worn or damaged components. 4. Inspect the Tappet outside diameters, rollers and shafts for wear or damage.
6. Install the upper spring seat and spring. 7. Assemble the lower spring seat to the plunger. Insert the plunger into the barrel with the side of the plunger collar marked “L” towards the control rack. NOTE: the collar and pinion are designed to prevent incorrect installation. 8. Insert the tappet carefully to avoid dropping the shim. Align the tappet guide hole with the hole for the tappet guide pin. Install the guide pin locking plate and guide pin.
Injection Pump Pressure and Delivery Rate Injection pump pressure and the delivery rate of the pump, as well as inter-cylinder delivery rates must be determined by the use of specialized equipment. If difficulties with the injection pump are suspected the help of a competent diesel engine service shop should be sought. Injection Pump Timing and Adjustment Adjusting the shim thicknesses as explained on, “Injection Timing Test,” will adjust the injection timing.
Nozzle Servicing (Fig. 51) The fuel from the injection pump flows through the injection pipes to the nozzle. During the injection stroke of the pump, pressurized fuel builds up in the nozzle. When the pressure becomes sufficiently high, the nozzle valve opens and a spray of fuel is injected into the combustion chamber where it is ignited due to the heat produced by the cylinder compression. If the nozzle does not function properly, starting failure, low power output, or engine knocking can occur.
Removing and Installing the Engine Removing the Engine 1. Put machine on a level surface, stop engine, remove key from ignition switch and engage parking brake. NOTE: Be prepared to insert a plug into fuel line to prevent fuel spill. 2. Remove intake hose from air cleaner and carburetor. 12. Remove main fuel return hose at injector nozzle connection. 3. Remove transmission drive coupling (see Chapter 10 - Transmission Coupler and PTO). 4. Remove PTO belt (see Chapter 10 - Transmission Coupler and PTO).
Cylinder Head Overhaul This section explains disassembly, inspection, repair, and reassembly of the cylinder head and its components as outlined below: Cylinder Head Removal Cylinder Head Servicing Valve Guides Valves Valve Seats Valve Springs Rocker Arms, Bearings, Shaft Cylinder Head Reassembly and Installation IMPORTANT: When overhauling the cylinder head and cylinder block it is important that many of the components be reinstalled in the exact location from where they were removed.
Cylinder Head Servicing (Fig. 54) 1. Use a spring compressor to compress the valve springs. Remove the retainer locks (keepers), retainers, and valve springs. Place each part in a holder or rack so that they can be replaced in their original position. 2. Remove the valves and place them in position in the rack. Examine each valve for indications of burning, pitting, heavy carbon deposits or wear.
Valve Guides (Fig. 55) If the valve guide clearance, after cleaning, exceeds the specifications in step 6 above, they must be replaced. 1. Remove the existing valve guide by pressing it upward using a valve guide removing mandrel with a pilot section. 2. To install the new guide press it in from the top of the cylinder head using the valve guide mandrel. Valve guides should be installed so that their installed height is as shown.
Valve Seats (Fig. 57, 58) 1. Check the valve seat for damage and signs of incorrect contact. 2. If the valve seat is defective, the seat can be re-cut to the dimensions shown. 3. After cutting new valve seats, lap the valve to the seat using the lapping compound. After lapping, thoroughly clean the valve seat and valve areas to remove any traces of lapping compound.
Valve Springs (Fig. 59) 1. Check the valve springs for rust, pitting, cracks or other damage. 2. Check the squareness of the valve spring by placing it upright on a level surface. Springs may be out of square by 1.5 degrees. Springs that are out of square by 3 degrees or more must be replaced. 3. Measure the spring free length. The standard dimension is 1.69 inches (43 mm). Springs which measure 1.64 inches (41.7 mm) or shorter must be replaced. 4. Over time, valve springs can lose some of their tension.
Cylinder Head Reassembly and Installation (Fig. 61, 62, 63) 1. Ensure that the valve guides are properly installed. 2. Install the valve stem seal onto the valve guide securely. 3. Apply a coating of oil to the valve stems and insert them in proper order, into the valve guides. Install the valve springs, valve retainers and retainer locks. 4. Assemble the rocker arms to the rocker shaft in the following order.
Cylinder Block Overhaul This section outlines procedures for disassembly, inspection, repair and reassembly of the cylinder block and its components, as outlined below: Cylinder Block Disassembly Camshaft Service Injection Pump Camshaft Service Crankshaft Bearings Timing Gears Connecting Rods and Bearings Cylinders Oversized Pistons, Cylinder Bore and Rings Piston and Pin Replacement Cylinder Block Disassembly NOTE: It is assumed that the engine has been removed from the mower, placed on an engine stand, a
14. Remove the ring ridge from each cylinder using a ridge removing tool. This will prevent damage to the rings and pistons. Remove the connecting rod cap nuts and then remove the bearing caps. Place these parts in cylinder number order. Remove the pistons and connecting rods by pushing them up from the bottom of the block. Use a wooden block to push the pistons and rods to avoid damage to the connecting rod. NOTE: Before removing the pistons scribe the number of the cylinder onto the top of the piston.
Camshaft and Bearing (Fig. 65, 66) 1. Inspect the camshaft for evidence of severe wear. 2. Using a micrometer and a hole gauge, measure the clearance between the camshaft journals and the cylinder block. If the clearance is greater than 0.0059 inch (0.15 mm) the camshaft or the camshaft bushing must be replaced. 3. To remove the camshaft bushing in the cylinder block, carefully drive the bushing from its location using the camshaft bushing tool (refer to “Special Tools”).
Crankshaft Bearings (Fig. 68, 69) 1. Measure the crankshaft for “run-out” (bend). Mount the crankshaft in a pair of V-blocks (or live centers) and use a dial indicator to measure the run-out in the crankshaft. The maximum allowable crankshaft run-out is .0012 inch (0.03 mm). 2. Check the crank journals and crank pins for damage such as galling, seizure, etc. If journals or pins are seriously damaged they may be reground and oversized bearings installed.
Connecting Rod and Connecting Rod Bearings (Fig. 71) 1. Check for bending or distortion of the connecting rod. If excessive, replace the rod (0.002 inch or 0.05 mm max.). 2. Assemble each connecting rod to the crankshaft in their proper order. Use a feeler gauge to measure the connecting rod thrust clearance between the connecting rod and crankshaft. The proper clearance is .0039 -.0138 inch (.1 -.35 mm). If the clearance exceeds this amount replace the connecting rod assembly. 3.
Oversized Pistons, Cylinder Bore and Rings (Fig. 73, 74, 75) 1. Check the piston for wear, signs of seizure or nicks. Replace it if it is defective. 2. Measure the piston outside diameter. If the clearance between the piston and the cylinder exceeds 0.01 18 in. (.3 mm), replace the piston. NOTE: The piston O.D. should be measured at the lower end of the skirt across the thrust faces, or on access points perpendicular to the piston pin direction. 3.
Piston and Pin Replacement (Fig. 76) To remove a piston from its connecting rod, use the piston pin tool (see Special Tools section) to press the pin from the connecting rod. IMPORTANT: Do not attempt to remove the piston pins by driving them out with a hammer. A stuck piston pin, requiring excessive pressure to remove, should be replaced. 1100 - 3300 lbs (500 - 1500 Kg) pressure is standard force needed to remove the piston pin. 1. Press the piston pin from the connecting rod as described above. 2.
Engine Reassembly Procedures Follow the procedures listed below in reassembling the engine. 1. Install the camshaft bushing. Figure 77 Installing camshaft bushing 2. Install the main bearings to the cylinder block and main bearing cap. Ensure that these are in proper position. 3. Install the crankshaft. 4. Install the main bearing caps then tighten the cap bolts to the specified torque. Each cap carries an embossed arrow mark and letter or numeral to indicate its position in the cylinder block.
6. Apply sealant to the outside surface of the front and rear side seals. The side seals are installed with the radius towards the outside of the engine. Figure 80 Installing bearing side cap seals Figure 81 Direction of side seal installation 7. Insert the oil seal into the crankshaft rear oil seal case.Apply a light coat of oil to the oil seal lip and install the seal case to the cylinder block. NOTE: Use a new gasket. 8. Install the rear engine plate if it has been removed. 9.
NOTE: Before insertion apply engine oil to the piston pin O.D. and the connecting rod small end inside diameter. 10. To assemble the piston to the connecting rod, press the piston pin into the set position. Use the piston pin setting tool. Make sure the identification mark of the rod and and the arrow mark on the piston head are directed up. Pin press fitting force: 500 - 1500 kg (1100 - 3300 lb.) NOTE: The piston and piston pin are matched parts and should not be mixed.
12. Insert the piston and connecting rod assembly into the cylinder block using a ring compressor and a wooden block. After insertion into the cylinder, properly install the connecting rod bearings and rod caps and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. NOTE: The bearing assembly grooves in the connecting rod cap should be on the same side when assembled. 13. Install the front plate. Remember to use a new gasket. 14. Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is a top dead center (TDC). 15.
29. Install the front gear case and gasket, using PERMATEX No. 2 on gasket surfaces. When installing the gear case insert the tie rod and tie rod stopper spring into the hole in the cylinder block under injection pump. Install the crankshaft pulley and key. Torque the retaining nut to 144 - 180 ft-lbs. (20 - 25 KgM). 30. Install the oil screen and the oil pan using a new gasket. Figure 87 Installing gear case 31. Reinstall the speedometer unit while rotating the speedometer shaft.
Chapter 4A (For Groundsmaster 328–D only) Kubota Diesel Engine Table of Contents General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 General Information The engine used in the Groundsmaster 328–D is manufactured by Kubota. Service and repair parts for this engine are supplied through TORO Distributors. Repair parts may be ordered by TORO part number.
Specifications Item Description Make / Designation Kubota Model 1105 4 Cycle, 3 Cylinder Diesel Engine Number of Cylinders 3 Bore 3.07 in (78.0 mm) Stroke 3.09 in (78.4 mm) Total Displacement 68.53 cu in (1123 cc) Firing Order 1–2–3 Combustion Chamber Spherical Type Fuel No. 2 Diesel Fuel (ASTM D975) Fuel Capacity 6.5 U.S. gallon (24.
Chapter 5 Hydraulic System Table of Contents SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Hydraulic Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Hydraulic Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Hydraulic Fitting Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 HYDRAULIC SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications Item Description Standard ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________ Transmission Sauer-Sundstrand 15 Series In-line Operating Pressure Charge pressure Implement relief pressure Forward traction relief pressure (4WD only) 500 to 5200 PSI 70 - 150 PSI 700 to 900 PSI 5200 PSI ________________________________________________________________________________________________________
General Information Hydraulic Hoses Hydraulic hoses are subject to extreme conditions such as, pressure differentials during operation and exposure to weather, sun, chemicals, very warm storage conditions or mishandling during operation or maintenance. These conditions can cause damage or premature deterioration. Some hoses are more susceptible to these conditions than others. Inspect the hoses frequently for signs of deterioration or damage.
SAE Straight Thread O-Ring Port (Non-adjustable) 1. Make sure both threads and sealing surfaces are free of burrs, nicks, scratches, or any foreign material. 2. Always replace the O-ring seal when this type of fitting shows signs of leakage. 3. Lubricate the O-ring with a light coating of oil. O-Ring 4. Install the fitting into the port and tighten it down full length until finger tight (Fig. 4). 5. Tighten the fitting to the correct flats from finger tight (F.F.F.T.). Figure 4 Size 4 (1/4 in.
Pushing or Towing (Fig. 6) In an emergency, the traction unit can be pushed or towed for a very short distance. However, Toro does not recommend this as a standard procedure. IMPORTANT: Do not push to tow the traction unit faster than 2 to 3 mph because the transmission may be damaged. If traction unit must be moved a long distance, transport it on a truck or trailer. When ever traction unit is pushed or towed, the by-pass valve must be open. 1. Raise and support seat to get access to by-pass valve. 2.
Hydraulic Schematics 2 Wheel Drive Traction Unit 4 Wheel Drive Traction Unit Hydraulic Schematics Page 5 - 6 Groundsmaster® 300 Series
Hydraulic Flow Diagrams Forward Traction Operation The hydrostatic transmission consists of a charge pump, variable displacement pump and a fixed displacement motor. The diagram shows flow of the hydraulic oil during forward operation.
Raising the Cutting Unit The charge pump supplies oil through the “AUX” port of the steering valve to the lift valve. When the lift lever is actuated to raise the cutting unit, oil supplied by the charge pump is directed out the work port of the lift valve to the barrel end of the lift cylinder. Oil displaced from the rod end of the cylinders goes through the oil cooler and back to reservoir.
Turning Steering Wheel to Right When the steering wheel is turned to the right the control valve within the steering valve shifts to close the “AUX” port. This directs oil supplied by the charge pump to the metering section of the steering valve. As the steering wheel turns, oil is metered out port “RT” to the steering cylinder. Oil displaced by the other end of the steering cylinder returns to the steering valve through port “LT” which directs it through the “OUT” port back to reservoir.
Special Tools NOTE: Order special tools from the TORO SPECIAL TOOLS AND APPLICATIONS GUIDE (COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS). Some tools may be listed in the Parts Catalog for your Toro equipment. Some tools may also be available from a local supplier. Hydraulic Pressure Gauges (Fig. 7) Used to take various hydraulic pressure readings for diagnostic tests. Low pressure gauge 0 - 1000 psi, high pressure gauge 0 - 5000 psi, and associated hoses and fittings.
Hydraulic Tester (With Pressure and Flow Capabilities) (Fig. 8) Figure 8 You must have o-ring face seal (ORFS) adapter fittings for this tester to use it on current models of the Groundsmaster 300 Series. 4. HIGH PRESSURE GAUGE: High range gauge to accommodate pressure beyond the capacity of the low pressure gauge, 0 - 5000. 1. INLET HOSE: Hose connected from the system circuit to the inlet side of the hydraulic tester. 5.
Troubleshooting The cause of an improperly functioning hydraulic system is best diagnosed with the use of proper testing equipment and a thorough understanding of the complete hydraulic system. A hydraulic system with an excessive increase in heat or noise is a potential failure. Should either of these conditions be noticed, immediately stop the machine, turn off the engine, locate the cause of the trouble, and correct it before allowing the machine to be used again.
System Operates Hot Check engine rpm Low Adjust, use tachometer Ok Check hydraulic oil level Check radiator, screen, fan, fan belt and coolant level Ok Low Defective cooling system Fill to proper level Clean radiator & screen. Repair fan or belt.
Loss Of Power Or Unit Will Not Operate In Either Direction Check engine rpm Ok Low Adjust, use tachometer Check engine to transmission coupler Disconnected or damaged Repair Ok Check hydraulic oil level Ok Inspect by-pass valve Low Open or defective Fill to proper level Close or repair Ok Inspect inlet filter Ok Tighten or replace Inspect charge pump Ok Ok Loose or defective Loose or clogged Inspect implement relief valve OK Inspect charge relief valve Defective Repair or replace c
Check engine rpm Ok Inspect underside of cutting unit Ok Inspect lift valve control linkage Ok Check hydraulic oil level Inspect lift arm pivots Low Excess debris Low Binding, broken or out of adjustment Binding Adjust, use tachometer Clean Fill to proper level Lubricate or repair Lubricate or repair Check charge pump pressure/flow Ok Repair or replace transmission (pump & motor) Ok Inspect charge pump Defective Repair charge pump Ok Ok Test lift cylinders for internal leakage Ok
Check steering linkage for binding or damage High Steering Effort Ok Ok Check hydraulic oil level Defective Low Repair Fill to proper level Check charge pump pressure/flow Ok Repair or replace transmission (pump & motor) Ok Inspect charge pump Defective Repair charge pump Ok Troubleshooting Check for restriction in return line (“OUT” port) Ok Inspect steering valve Defective Defective Replace hydraulic cylinder Repair or replace valve Ok Inspect implement relief valve Defective Rep
Steering Wander or Shimmy Inspect for loose or worn steering linkage Defective Repair linkage and adjust toe-in Groundsmaster® 300 Series Ok Air in hydraulic system Defective Bleed air from hydraulic system Page 5 - 17 Ok Inspect steering cylinder for internal leakage Defective Replace steering cylinder Troubleshooting
Testing The most effective method for isolating problems in the hydraulic system is by using hydraulic test equipment such as pressure gauges and flow meters in the circuits during various operational checks. (See the Special Tools section in this Chapter.) 1. Thoroughly clean the machine before disconnecting or disassembling any hydraulic components. Always keep in mind the need for cleanliness when working on hydraulic equipment. 2.
TEST NO. 1: Charge Pressure (Fig. 9) Using a low pressure gauge: 0 - 1000 psi 1. Engage the parking brake, and block the front wheels to prevent movement of the machine. Lower the cutting unit or implement to the floor and turn the engine OFF. 2. Raise and support the seat. 3. Place a drain pan under the transmission. Use a 3/16 inch Allen wrench to remove the 1/8 inch pipe plug located next the implement pressure port on top of the transmission. 4.
TEST NO. 2: Implement Relief Pressure (Fig. 9) Using a low pressure gauge: 0 - 1000 psi 1. Perform steps 1 - 7 under Charge Pressure Test. 2. While observing the gauge, move the lift control lever to the RAISE position. While holding the lever in the RAISE position, look at the pressure reading on the gauge. The gauge should show 700 - 800 psi. Stop the engine and move the lift control lever to the LOWER position to lower the implement to the ground. 3.
TEST NO. 3: Traction Pressure (Fig. 10) Using a high pressure gauge: 0 - 5000 psi CAUTION Failure to use a high pressure gauge 0 - 5000 psi during this traction pressure test could result in damage to the gauge and possible personal injury due to leaking, hot oil. 1. Before beginning the traction test, drive the machine to an open area, lower the cutting unit, turn the engine OFF and engage the parking brake. Connect a chain to the rear axle.
TEST NO. 4: Charge Pump Flow and Implement Relief Pressure (Fig. 11) Using a hydraulic tester with flow meter 1. Engage the parking brake and block the front wheels to prevent movement of the machine. Lower the cutting unit or implement to the floor and turn the engine OFF. 2. Raise and support the seat or remove the seat and seat mounting plate. 3. Put a drain pan below the transmission. Disconnect the hydraulic hose from the charge pump outlet (pressure) fitting on the transmission. 4.
Adjustments Traction Control Rod Adjustment (Serial Numbers Below 50000) (Fig. 12) 1. Check traction drive neutral position to assure front wheels do not creep; refer to “Traction Drive Neutral Adjustment”. 2. Depress traction pedal fully. There must be 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) between inside front edge of pedal and triangular support brace. If distance is as specified, the control rod is adjusted correctly. If distance is not as specified, proceed to step 3 for an adjustment. 3.
Traction Control Neutral Adjustment (Fig. 13) 1. Park vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off. Apply the parking brake, tip seat forward, and actuate pump lever (Fig. 13) to ensure assembly is properly seated and operating freely. Correct any discrepancy. 2. Jack up frame so left front wheel is off the ground. On four wheel drive machines, jack up frame so at least one rear wheel is also off the ground. Use jack stands to support the raised machine. 3.
Lift Lever Latch Adjustment (Fig. 14) A lift lever latch that is positioned incorrectly can cause the lift lever to hold the spool in an actuated position when the implement is in the FLOAT position. This causes oil in the hydraulic system to overheat. When lift lever latch is adjusted correctly, the lift lever should just clear the rounded part of the latch as lever is moved into FLOAT position. 1. Unscrew ball from lift lever. 2.
Repairs Transmission Trunnion Seal Replacement (Fig. 15) 1. Remove the control lever and the interlock switch assembly from the trunnion shaft on the right side of the transmission. 2. Remove the snap ring from the end of trunnion shaft and slide the flat washer off of the shaft. Using a seal puller; pull the seal out of the housing. Do not scratch the shaft. NOTE: Since oil drains out of the transmission when the seal is removed, use a drain pan to catch the oil; however, do not use this oil again. 3.
Transmission By-Pass Valve (Fig. 16) 1. Place a drain pan below the by-pass valve. 2. Remove the by-pass valve assembly from the center section by turning it counterclockwise. Some oil may flow into the drain pan. 3. Inspect the threads on the by-pass valve. Replace the valve if the threads are damaged. 4. Check the O-ring and back-up ring for damage. If the parts are damaged, replace them. 5.
Transmission Acceleration Valves (Fig. 17) 1 . Place a drain pan below the acceleration valves. 2. Remove both acceleration valve plugs and O-rings from the sides of the center section. Some oil may flow into the drain pan. 3. Slide the acceleration valve and spring out of the center section. Also slide the other acceleration valve out of the opposite side of the center section. NOTE: There are two acceleration valves in the center section, but only one spring. 4. Remove the O-rings from the plugs. 5.
Transmission Implement Relief Valve (Fig. 18) 1. Place a drain pan below the implement relief valve. 2. Remove the implement relief plug and O-ring from the side of the pump housing. Slide the shim pack, spring and cone out of the pump housing. Some oil may flow out of the transmission. NOTE:Count the shims when they are removed. The same number of shims must be installed when assembling the parts. Do not interchange implement relief shims with charge relief shims. 3. Remove the O-ring from the plug. 4.
Transmission Charge Relief Valve (Fig. 19) 1 . Place a drain pan below the charge relief valve. 2. Remove the charge relief plug and O-ring from the side of the pump housing. Slide the shim pack, spring and ball or cone out of the housing. Some oil may flow out of the transmission. NOTE: Count the shims when they are removed. The same number of shims must be installed when assembling the parts. Do not interchange charge relief shims with implement relief shims. 3. Remove the O-ring from the plug. 4.
Transmission Charge Pump (Fig. 20, 21) 1. Remove the drive coupling from between the engine pulley and the transmission hub; refer to "Removing Drive Coupling" in Chapter 10. 2. Remove the taper lock (if applicable) and the hub from the transmission shaft. 3. Examine the transmission pump shaft and remove all burrs, sharp edges and residue to prevent possible damage to the lip seal. NOTE: Disassembly of the charge pump is not necessary when the seal is the only part that must be replaced (see step four).
8. Examine the bearing in the charge pump housing for damage and free rotation. If the bearing is damaged, replace the bearing and seal. 9. To assemble the charge pump, install a new O-ring into the groove in charge pump housing. 10. Apply transmission oil on the gerotor wheel and the inside of the charge pump housing. Slide the drive pin through the hole in the pump shaft. (It is helpful to have this hole positioned horizontally, as shown, to keep the pin in place during reassembly.
Transmission Removal and Installation 1. Position the machine on a level surface in a clean area of the workshop.Block all four wheels of the unit to prevent it from moving. 7. Loosen and remove the engine to transmission coupler; refer to "Removing Drive Coupling" of Chapter 10. 2. Lower the cutting unit or implement to the shop floor. Turn the engine off and remove the key from the ignition switch. 8. Disconnect and remove the traction pedal rod where it fastens to the transmission. 3.
Transmission Overhaul As the transmission components are removed for service and inspection, it should be noted that nominal wear to the components is acceptable. Critical contact surfaces (i.e. charge pump gerotor, piston slippers, etc.) must be in good condition or the system will be inefficient. When components have circumferential scratches or grooves noted on the running surfaces, it is an indication of foreign material in the hydraulic oil.
Transmission Pump Section (Fig. 24, 25, 26, 27) 1. Separate the pump housing from the center section; refer to "Separating Transmission Into Sections,". 2. Lift the cylinder block assembly out of the pump housing.
10. Clean and inspect the following parts: A. Thrust Plate - Check both sides for damage and flatness. B. Cylinder Block Assembly - Check surfaces for wear, scratches and scoring. Also, check the slippers for damage and make sure the pistons are free in the bores. be 1/4 inch below the surface of the swash plate. Make sure the swash plate swings freely; 15 degrees to each side of center. 14. Lubricate the thrust plate with transmission oil.
Transmission Center Section (Fig. 28) 1 . Separate the center section from the motor and pump housings; refer to "Separating Transmission Into Sections". 2. Wrap the pump side of the center section with a clean rag to protect its face. Set the center section on a clean work bench so that the motor side faces up. The rag will protect the pump side of the center section from direct contact with the top of the work bench. 3.
Transmission Motor Section (Fig. 29, 30) 1. Separate the motor housing from the center section; refer to "Separating Transmission Into Sections". NOTE: Make sure the splines at the end of the motor shaft are toward the flange side of the motor housing. 2. Lift the cylinder block assembly out of the motor housing. The pistons may come out of the cylinder block, but do not be concerned; they do not have a special order in the cylinder block. 7. Lubricate the thrust plate with transmission oil.
Assembling Transmission Sections (Fig. 31, 32) 1. Apply transmission oil on both sides of the center section. Place the gaskets in position against the pump and motor sides of the center section. NOTE: The transmission oil should hold the gaskets against the sides of the center section. 2. Identify the motor side of the center section by locating the two slotted directional charge check plugs.
Priming After Transmission Overhaul Or Replacement Use the following procedures to prime the hydraulic system whenever the Sundstrand Transmission is overhauled or replaced: 4. Start the engine and operate the traction and lift system controls for approximately five minutes. Then turn the engine off. 1. Pour a quantity of transmission oil into the transmission before mounting it to the machine. 5. Allow the machine to stand idle for approximately two minutes, remove the dipstick and check the oil level.
Lift Cylinder Removal and Installation (Fig. 33) 1. Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor and turn the engine off. Jack up the right front side of the traction unit and support it with a jack stank. Remove the wheel nuts and slide the wheel off of the mounting studs. 2. Remove the hoses from the lift cylinder and cap the hoses to prevent contamination. 3. Remove the hair pin cotters and spring from the cotter pin.
Lift Cylinder Repair (Fig. 34) Pump the oil out of the cylinder into a drain pan by moving the piston back and forth. 10. Use a new seal kit (Items 3, 6 - 10) to replace all O-rings, seals and back-up rings. 1. Wash the lift cylinder in solvent and dry it thoroughly. IMPORTANT: The dust seal lips must point outward; the seal must have the O-ring portion facing towards the inside of the cylinder. 2. Mount the lift cylinder vertically in a vise so the shaft end of the cylinder is facing up. 11.
Lift Valve Removal and Installation (Fig. 35) 1. Unscrew the ball from the lift lever. 2. Remove the self-tapping screws and lift the cover off of the lift lever to expose the valve. 3. Loosen and remove the hydraulic lines that are attached to the valve. Cap or plug all of the fittings and hoses to prevent contamination. 4. Remove the five cap screws and locknuts that secure the valve and lever to the main frame. 5. Lift out the control valve. Figure 35 6.
Lift Valve Repair (Fig. 36) 1. After removing the control valve assembly, wash the valve in solvent and dry it thoroughly. 2. Carefully mount the control valve into a vise so that the control valve mounting pads are against the jaws of the vise. The control valve spool snap ring (Item 15) should be facing up. 3. Remove the hex cap plug (Item 1) from the side of the valve body.
Chapter 6 Electrical System Table of Contents WIRING SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Groundsmaster 345. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 TROUBLESHOOTING (Groundsmaster 345) . . . . . . . . . 6 Starting Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Operation Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wiring Schematics Groundmaster 345 (Serial Number less than 40000) Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 2 Rev.
Groundmaster 345 (Serial Number 40001 to 200999999) Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 2.1 Rev.
Wiring Schematics 7.5 A 15 A F2 F3 GY OR OFF BK GY N.C. R Page 6 − 2.2 Rev. E FL3 FL2 FL1 ENGINE GROUND B 7.
Groundmaster 322−D/325−D (Serial Number less than 20000000) Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 3 Rev.
Wiring Schematics 15 A F3 GY BK GY N.C. R Page 6 − 3.1 Rev. E FL3 FL2 FL1 () R PK W B R L GN = GREEN GY = GRAY T = T AN KEY TO WIRE COLORS BK = BLACK BR = BROWN BU = BLUE ENGINE GROUND 7.
Groundsmaster 300 Series Page 6 − 3.2 B+I+A B+I+S 2. RUN 3. START BLACK NONE 1. OFF Rev.
Wiring Schematics Page 6 − 3.3 B+I+A B+I+S 2. RUN 3. START BLACK NONE 1. OFF Rev.
Groundsmaster 300 Series BK GY R R R GY R GY OR Page 6 − 3.4 Rev.
Special Tools NOTE: Order special tools from the TO R O S P E C IA L TO O L S A N D A P P L IC AT IO N S G U ID E (C O M M E R C IA L P R O D U C T S ). Some tools may be available from a local supplier. Continuity Tester (Fig. 1) Battery powered test lamp which is helpful in testing for continuity of circuits and electrical components when the current is off. Figure 1 Volt - Ohm - Amp Meter (Fig. 2) The meter can test electrical components and circuits for current, resistance, or voltage draw.
Skin-Over Grease (Fig. 3) Special non-conductive grease which forms a light protective skin to help waterproof electrical switches and contacts.
Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 345) Study the operating characteristics preceding the electrical failure to help identify the area of difficulty. Try to isolate the failure to a specific functional system; then check that area, repairing one component at a time. Attempting to repair more than one system at one time will lead to confusion. CAUTION Remove all jewelry, especially rings and watches, before doing any electrical trou bleshooting or testing.
Starting Problems (continued) Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Nothing happens when start attempt is made. Groundsmaster® 300 Series Battery is dead. Charge battery. Replace battery if it will not hold a charge. Loose or corroded battery cables. Loose or corroded ground. Clean and tighten or repair as necessary. Fuse open.
Starting Problems (continued) Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Engine cranks, but does not start. Engine wiring connector or wires loose, corroded or damaged. Repair wiring. Temp. gauge switch faulty. Test temp. gauge switch and replace if faulty. Temp. relay faulty. Test temp. relay and replace if faulty. Temp. relay wiring faulty.
Operation Problems Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Engine continues to run (but should not) when traction pedal is depressed with no operator on seat. Seat switch plunger depressed with no operator on seat. Check for seat support spring that is broken, missing or stuck in down position. Check for binding seat pivot hinge.
Operation Problems (continued) Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Engine continues to run (but should not) when PTO is ON with no operator on the seat. Seat switch plunger depressed with no operator on seat. Check for seat support spring that is broken, missing or stuck in down position. Check for binding seat pivot hinge. Check for waterlogged seat.
Verify Interlock System Operation The machine has interlock switches in the electrical system. These switches are designed to stop the engine when operator gets off the seat while either the PTO lever is engaged or traction pedal is depressed. However, operator may get off the seat while engine is running. Although engine will continue to run if PTO lever is disengaged and traction pedal is released, it is strongly recommended that the engine be stopped before dismounting from the seat. 2. Sit on seat.
Troubleshooting (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D) Study the operating characteristics preceding the electrical failure to help identify the area of difficulty. Try to isolate the failure to a specific functional system; then check that area, repairing one component at a time. Attempting to repair more than one system at one time will lead to confusion. CAUTION Remove all jewelry, especially rings and watches, before doing any electrical trou bleshooting or testing.
Starting Problems (continued) Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Nothing happens when start attempt is made. Groundsmaster® 300 Series Battery is dead. Charge battery. Replace battery if it will not hold a charge. Loose or corroded battery cables. Loose or corroded ground. Clean and tighten or repair as necessary. Circuit breaker open.
Starting Problems (continued) Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Engine cranks, but does not start (if engine cranks, cause of problem is not in interlock system). Glow plugs not used properly before starting. Use glow plugs to pre-heat engine cylinders before and during cold starting.
Operation Problems Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Engine continues to run (but should not) when traction pedal is depressed with no operator on seat. Seat switch plunger depressed with no operator on seat. Check for seat support spring that is broken, missing or stuck in down position. Check for binding seat pivot hinge.
Operation Problems (continued) Condition Possible Cause Correction ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Engine continues to run (but should not) when PTO is ON with no operator on the seat. Seat switch plunger depressed with no operator on seat. Check for seat support spring that is broken, missing or stuck in down position. Check for binding seat pivot hinge. Check for waterlogged seat.
Verify Interlock System Operation The machine has interlock switches in the electrical system. These switches are designed to stop the engine when operator gets off the seat while either the PTO lever is engaged or traction pedal is depressed. However, operator may get off the seat while engine is running. Although engine will continue to run if PTO lever is disengaged and traction pedal is released, it is strongly recommended that the engine be stopped before dismounting from the seat. 2. Sit on seat.
Testing This section will define components, and the tests that can be performed on those components, when those parts are disconnected from the electrical system. CAUTION For accurate resistance and/or continuity checks, electrically disconnect the component being tested from the circuit (e.g. unplug the seat switch connector before doing a continuity check).
Seat Switch (Fig. 6, 7) The seat switch is a normally open (N.O.) switch that closes when the operator is on the seat. If the PTO switch or traction switch is open and the operator raises off the seat, the engine will stop. 1. Raise the seat to get access to the seat switch wiring connector. 2. Disconnect the seat switch wiring connector and install a continuity tester or ohm meter between the two leads of the seat switch. 3. Lower the seat. The continuity tester should show no continuity.
Traction (Neutral) Switch (Fig. 8) The traction switch is normally open and closes when traction pedal is in neutral. TRACTION NEUTRAL SWITCH IMPORTANT: The traction switch has three (3) ter minals. Make sure the wires are connected to the “COMMON” and “N.O.” terminals. Test switch by disconnecting wires from switch terminals and connecting a continuity tester across COMMON and N.O. terminals. With engine off, slowly push traction pedal in forward and reverse direction while watching continuity tester.
Starter Interlock Relay (Fig. 11, 12, 13) To test the relay (Fig. 11, Item 22 or Fig. 12, Item 42), disconnect the relay wire connector and install a continuity tester between the relay terminals (terminals 30 and 87). The relay should make and break continuity at terminals 30 and 87 as 12 V.D.C. is connected and disconnected to terminal 85 with terminal 86 connected to ground.
Glow Plugs (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) See Chapter 4 - Diesel Engine. Battery (Fig. 14, 15) Use a hydrometer to test the battery. Charge the battery if necessary (see Battery Service). Electrolyte specific gravity Fully charged: 1.250 - 1.280 Discharged: less than 1.240 Figure 14 (Groundsmaster 345) 1. Wing nuts 2. Hold down strap 3. Positive (+) terminal 4. Negative (–) terminal Figure 15 (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D) 1. Wing nuts 2. Hold down strap Testing Page 6 - 22 3. Positive (+) terminal 4.
Fuel Stop Solenoid (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) (Fig. 16) Test the fuel stop solenoid by connecting the two solenoid lead wires to a 12 volt battery (fused at 10 AMPS). When the battery is connected, the plunger of the solenoid should be activated (for replacement instructions see Chapter 4 - Diesel Engine).
Fuel Stop Control Unit (Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D only) (Fig. 17) The control unit (Fig. 17, Item 27) is a solid-state timing device that controls a fuel stop solenoid for shutting the engine off with the ignition key switch. To check operation of the control unit and fuel stop solenoid, listen for an audible “click” when the key is turned to the OFF position (after having been in the RUN position), and then once again approximately 7 to 15 seconds after the key switch has been turned off.
Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 6 - 25 Testing
Indicator Lights, Buzzers and Gauges Test the indicator by disconnecting the wires and checking for continuity across the terminals. Oil Pressure Light and Buzzer Oil pressure lamp and buzzer should come on when the ignition key switch is in the RUN position with the engine not running or if the oil pressure switch closes during operation - oil pressure below 7 psi (0.5 kg/cm2). Hourmeter Test the light and buzzer by disconnecting the wire from oil pressure switch and grounding it against the engine.
Temperature Relay (Fig. 18) The temperature relay (Fig. 18, Item 18) works with the temperature gauge to disconnect battery voltage to the ignition system (gas engine) or fuel shut stop control unit (diesel engine) if the engine temperature gets too hot. The B & C terminals of the temperature relay have a normally closed connection between them. If there is no continuity between terminals B & C check the SFE-14 fuse inside the relay box. A coil resistance may be read on the ohmmeter between terminals B & S.
Engine Oil Pressure Switch (Fig. 20) The oil pressure switch is located on the cylinder block and has a brown wire attached. The switch is normally closed (NC) and opens with pressure. Turn ignition key switch ON. Oil pressure lamp and buzzer should be on. If lamp and buzzer are not on: 1. Disconnect wire from oil pressure switch and touch wire to a good ground, such as the engine block. 2. If lamp and buzzer come on, replace switch. 3.
Fuel Gauge Sending Unit (Fig. 21) 1. Remove the two wires from top of sending unity. 2. Loosen and remove screws securing sending unit to fuel tank. DANGER Because fuel is flammable, caution must be used when the sending unit is removed. Va pors may build up and be ignited by a spark or flame source many feet away. Prevent sparks and DO NOT smoke while working on the fuel system, to avoid the possibility of an explosion and personal injury. 3. Carefully remove sending unit from fuel tank. Figure 21 4.
Repairs IMPORTANT: Before welding on the machine, dis connect both battery cables from the battery and disconnect the terminal connector from the alterna tor to prevent damage to the electrical system. Battery Service (Fig. 22) IMPORTANT: To prevent damage to electrical com ponents, do not operate the engine with the battery cables disconnected. Keep the terminals and entire battery case clean. To clean the battery, wash the entire case with a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse with clear water.
Fuses and Circuit Breaker (Fig. Figure 23, 24) Groundsmaster 345 An engine temperature reset relay fuse – SFE 14 AMP – is located behind the reset relay. An inline fuse – SFE 14 AMP – protects the entire electrical system. Get access to the fuses by removing the instrument panel cover. Groundsmaster 322-D/325-D An engine temperature reset relay fuse – SFE 14 AMP – is located behind reset relay. An inline fuse – AGC 10 AMP – protects the engine control module.
Traction (Neutral) Switch Replacement (Fig. 25) 1. Remove the two wires that are connected to the traction switch. TRACTION NEUTRAL SWITCH 2. Loosen two (2) screws and remove the switch. 3. Install new switch. DO NOT over-tighten screws as the switch case could break. NOTE: Apply “Loctite 271” or equivalent to threads of switch screws before installing. 4. Reconnect the two wires to the new switch.
PTO Switch Replacement (Fig. 26, 27) Lever Type Switch (S/N Below 30001) (Fig. 26) 1. Disengage latches and remove instrument cover. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery and separate wire harness connectors. 3. Move PTO lever to the ON position and remove capscrew and locknut holding switch against mounting bracket. 4. Install new switch with capscrew and locknut. Move PTO lever to OFF position. When lever is in its normal, released position, the switch arm must bend about 1/2 inch (13 mm).
Plunger Type Switch (S/N 30001 and UP) (Fig. 27) 1. Disengage latches and remove instrument cover. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. 3. Move PTO lever forward to ON position. 4. Disconnect PTO switch electrical connector. 5. Remove boot from button end of switch. Keep boot for installation later. 6. Remove front jam nut securing switch to mounting bracket and remove switch. Figure 27 (S/N 30001 and UP) 1. PTO switch 7. Install new switch to mounting bracket.
Seat Switch Replacement (Fig. 28, 29) Lever Type Switch (S/N Below 30001) (Fig. 28) 1. Remove instrument cover and disconnect negative (–) battery cable from battery. 2. Pivot seat forward and secure with support rod to prevent it from falling. 3. (4WD units only) Remove (4) flange screws and (2) locknuts securing sealing plate to frame above fuel tank. Remove sealing plate. 4. Disconnect electrical connectors for seat switch. Remove capscrew and locknut securing switch to mounting bracket. 5.
Plunger Type Switch (S/N 30001 and UP) (Fig. 29) 1. Remove instrument cover and disconnect negative (–) battery cable from battery. 2. Pivot seat forward and secure with support rod to prevent it from falling. 3. (4WD units only) Remove (4) flange screws and (2) locknuts securing sealing plate to frame above fuel tank. Remove sealing plate. 4. Remove boot from button end of seat switch. Keep boot for installation later. Disconnect seat switch wiring connector. 5.
Chapter 6A For GM 345 (Serial Number above 21000000) and GM 328–D Electrical System Table of Contents ELECTRICAL SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ELECTRICAL SYSTEM QUICK CHECKS . . . . . . . . Battery Test (Open Circuit Test) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Charging System Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glow Plug System Test (Groundsmaster 328–D) . COMPONENT IDENTIFICATION AND TESTING . .
Special Tools Digital Multimeter The Digital Multimeter can test electrical components and circuits for current, resistance, or voltage drop. Obtain Digital Multimeter from a local supplier. Note: Toro recommends the use of a DIGITAL multimeter when testing electrical circuits. The high impedance (internal resistance) of a digital meter will ensure that excess current is not allowed through the meter. Excess current can cause damage to a circuit that is not designed to carry it.
Electrical System Quick Checks Battery Test (Open Circuit Test) Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the battery terminals. Voltage Measured Battery Charge Level 12.68 v (or higher) Fully charged (100%) Set the multimeter to the DC volts setting. The battery should be at a temperature of 60o to 100o F (16o to 38o C). The ignition key should be in the OFF position and all accessories turned off.
Component Testing Note: See Chapter 6 – Electrical System for additional component identification and testing information. Only new information for Groundsmaster 345 machines with serial numbers above 21000000 and Groundsmaster 328–D machines is provided in this Chapter. Seat Switch The seat switch is normally open and closes when the operator is on the seat. The switch is located directly under the seat (Fig. 3). 1 1. Make sure the engine and ignition switch are Off. Remove key from ignition switch. 2.
Start Enable, Run Enable, Over Temperature and Seat Delay (GM 328–D) Relays Three (3) relays (start enable, run enable and over temperature) are used on the Groundsmaster 328–D and Groundsmaster 345 to control engine operation. The Groundsmaster 328–D uses an additional relay (seat delay) to allow the engine to continue to run when the operator lifts from the seat momentarily. The relays are attached to a bracket under the instrument panel next to the battery. These relays are identical.
Fuel Sender The fuel sender is located on top of the fuel tank. Testing 1. Remove blue wire and black ground wire from the sender. CAUTION FULL POSITION If testing circuit wiring and fuel gauge, make sure wire connections are secure before turning ignition switch ON to prevent an explosion or fire from sparks. EMPTY POSITION 2. To test the circuit wiring and fuel gauge, connect blue and black wires and turn ignition switch to ON. Fuel gauge needle should point to the right edge of the green area (full).
Fusible Link Harness The Groundsmaster 328–D and Groundsmaster 345 use three (3) fusible links for circuit protection. These fusible links are located in a harness that connects the starter B+ terminal to the main wire harness. If any of these links should fail, current to the protected circuit will cease. Refer to wire harness drawings in Chapter 6 – Electrical System for additional fusible link information.
Control Ignition Delay Module (Groundsmaster 345) The control ignition delay module on the Groundsmaster 345 is one of the components in the interlock system. Whenever the run enable relay is energized, the control ignition delay module is energized and allows current to the engine ignition control module. If the run enable relay is de–energized (e.g. operator gets off the seat), the control ignition delay module will de–energize after .
Glow Controller (Groundsmaster 328–D) The glow controller used on the Groundsmaster 328–D (diesel engine) is located under the instrument panel. Note: Refer to Groundsmaster 328–D electrical schematic in Chapter 6 – Electrical System when troubleshooting the glow controller circuit. Controller Operation 1. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the controller energizes the glow plugs and lights up the glow lamp for approximately 6 seconds. 2.
Run Solenoid (Groundsmaster 328–D) (Solenoid With 3 Wire Connector) The run (ETR) solenoid must be energized for the engine to run. The solenoid is mounted on the engine block near the injection pump. 4. Touch a negative (-) test lead from the 12 VDC source to the pin of the black wire. The solenoid should engage making an audible ”click”. In Place Testing 5. Remove positive (+) voltage from the pin of the white wire. The solenoid should stay engaged.
Run Solenoid (Groundsmaster 328–D) (Solenoid With 2 Wire Connector) The run (ETR) solenoid must be energized for the engine to run. The solenoid is mounted on the engine block near the injection pump. In Place Testing Note: Prior to taking small resistance readings with a digital multimeter, short the test leads together. The meter will display a small resistance value (usually 0.5 ohms or less). This resistance is due to the internal resistance of the meter and test leads.
Service and Repairs Battery Service The battery is the heart of the electrical system. With regular and proper service, battery life can be extended. Additionally, battery and electrical component failure can be prevented. Inspection, Maintenance and Testing 1. Perform the following inspection and maintenance tasks: A. Check for cracks caused by overly tight or loose hold–down clamp. Replace battery if cracked and leaking.
2. Conduct a hydrometer test of the battery electrolyte. A. Check the voltage across the battery terminals prior to testing the battery. If the voltage is less than 12.0 VDC, recharge the battery. IMPORTANT: Make sure the area around the cells is clean before opening the battery caps. B. If the battery has been charged, apply a 150 amp load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge. Use a battery load tester following the manufacturer’s instructions. A.
Charging CAUTION To minimize possible damage to the battery and allow the battery to be fully charged, the slow charging method is presented here. This charging method can be accomplished with a constant current battery charger which is available in most shops. Do not charge a frozen battery because it can explode and cause injury. Let the battery warm to 60o F (15.5o C) before connecting to a charger. CAUTION Charge the battery in a well–ventilated place to dissipate gases produced from charging.
Chapter 7 Differential Axle Table of Contents INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Axle Removal and Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 3 3 Axle Shaft Disassembly and Wheel Bearing Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Differential and Housing Disassembly. . . . . . . . . 8 Differential and Housing Reassembly . . . . . . . .
Specifications Item Specification __________________________________________________________________________________________ Front wheel lug nut torque 45 to 55 ft-lb ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________ Front to rear housing torque 18 to 28 ft-lb ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________
Repairs Axle Removal and Installation 1. Put machine on a level surface, lower cutting unit, stop the engine and remove key from ignition switch. Block rear wheels to prevent machine from moving. 2. Remove the cutting unit. (See the Repairs section of Chapter 11 - Cutting Units.) 3. If unit is equipped with 4WD, remove rear axle drive shaft (see Chapter 9 - 4WD Rear Axle). 4. Remove hydrostatic transmission. (See Repairs section of Chapter 5 - Hydraulic System.) 5. Slightly loosen all front wheel lug nuts.
Axle Shaft Disassembly and Wheel Bearing Service NOTE: When servicing the bearing and seal area of the axle shaft, it is recommended that you replace hex head screws and flange nuts with socket head screws (946934), washers (94-6936) and nuts (94-6935). See Figure 18. 1. After the wheel has been removed, slide the brake drum off of the axle flange (Fig. 5). NOTE: It may be necessary to loosen the brake shoes by turning the star wheel inside the brake drum assembly. (See Chapter 7 - Steering and Brakes.
4. Remove the inner axle shaft seal (Fig. 8). Discard the seal and replace with a new one at the time of assembly. Figure 8 5. Center punch the outside of the retaining ring (Fig. 9). Figure 9 6. Drill a 1/4 inch hole (approximate) into the outside of the retainer ring to a depth of about 3/4 the thickness of the ring (Fig. 10). IMPORTANT: Drilling completely through the re tainer ring could damage the shaft.
7. After drilling, put a chisel in position across the hole and strike sharply to break the ring. Replace with a new ring at time of reassembly (Fig. 11). WARNING Wear protective safety goggles when break ing the retaining ring. Personal injury could result from flying metal particles. Keep all personnel away during this procedure. Figure 11 8. Inspect the shaft for possible damage (Fig. 12). Inspect the sealing surface of the hub and shaft.
11. Slide a new retaining ring on the axle shaft and support the shaft and ring in a suitable press (Fig. 14). Press the retaining ring firmly against the bearing. Figure 14 12. Put a light coating of No. 1 Permatex on the outside diameter of a new grease seal (surface that contacts the axle housing). Install the new seal to a depth of 1.218 in. into the housing (Fig. 15, 16). After the seal has been assembled, put grease on the lip of the seal. Figure 15 1.
13. Assemble the bearing retainer bolts to the axle housing. Apply a 0.625 in. (16 mm) bead of gasket material to flange on end of axle housing, then install the axle shaft assembly into the axle housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal and bearing. Line up the holes of the brake assembly and oil seal. Push the axle shaft as far as possible into the axle housing (Fig. 17). Wheel end gasket material: P/N 92-8775 Liquid Gasket Kit (Kit contains Loctite Ultra-Gray gasket eliminator and instructions.
2. Remove the four bearing cap screws and remove the caps. Place the caps in a safe place to avoid damaging their machined surfaces (Fig. 20). The bearing caps are marked for identification. The letters or numbers are in horizontal and vertical positions. When reassembling, place them back in the same position. Figure 20 3. To remove the differential assembly, place two wooden devices (i.e. hammer handles) under the differential case and pry firmly upward.
5. Do not remove the bearings from the differential case unless bearing failure is evident. It is recommended that whenever bearings are removed (regardless of usage) they must be replaced with new ones. Remove the case side bearing with a puller as shown (Fig. 23). Figure 23 6. Put the case in a vise. Drive the lock pin out of the pinion shaft (Fig. 24). Use a small drift punch as shown.
8. To remove the side gears and pinion mate gears, rotate the side gears. This will allow the pinion mate gears to turn to the opening of the case (Fig. 26). Remove the pinion mate gears and the spherical washers behind the gears. Figure 26 9. Remove the eight side cover capscrews. Remove the the side cover from the carrier assembly (Fig. 27). Clean the gasket material from the mating surfaces before reassembly. Figure 27 10.
11. Before pressing pinion out of housing: If unit was equipped with an expansion plug (removed in step 10), remove the snap ring and shim from the end of the pinion (Fig. 29). If unit is equipped with a flange for 4WD (no expansion plug), nut, washer and flange (Fig. 3C) must be removed before pressing pinion out of housing. Figure 29 12. Position the housing assembly on a suitable press. Place a 1/8 inch (3 mm) piece of steel or a screwdriver blade under the edge of the spur gear.
13. Clamp the inner pinion bearing with a universal bearing remover (Fig. 32). Position the unit in a press and carefully push the drive pinion out of the bearing. DO NOT allow the pinion to drop on the floor - damage will result. Figure 32 14. To remove the outer pinion bearing cup, position the housing in a press. Place a press plate of the proper size against the cup. Press the cup out of the housing (Fig. 33). Figure 33 15.
Differential and Housing Reassembly 1. Inspect the differential parts for damage before assembling. A. If any bearings are damaged they must be replaced with new ones. B. Check the ring, pinion, and spur gear for abnormal wear and damage; replace worn components. C. Inspect the housings for cracks and external damage that could affect the operation of the axle assembly. D. Inspect the differential case for wear in the side gear and pinion mate area.
Ring and Pinion Set Rings gears and pinions are supplied in matched sets only. Matching numbers are etched on both the pinion and ring gear (Fig. 37). The mounting distance from the bottom of the differential bearing bores to the button end of the pinion is 1.210 in. On the button end of each pinion there is a plus (+) or minus (–) number, or a (0) number. This number indicates the best running position for each particular gear set. This dimension is controlled by the shimming behind the inner bearing cup.
4. Install a new inner bearing cup using a press plate of proper diameter. Reuse the original shims or use new shims of the same thickness. Push the bearing cup into the housing until it bottoms against the housing (Fig. 38). Figure 38 5. Insert the pinion into the housing. NOTE: A number marked on the new ring and pinion set is used to establish the proper amount of shims required prior to installing the pinion gear (see page 15).
7. Support the drive pinion in a suitable press (Fig. 41). Figure 41 8. Install the outer pinion spacer with the chamfer towards the pinion splines and install the new outer pinion bearing cone (Fig. 42). Figure 42 9. With a hollow press sleeve of proper diameter, press on the outer bearing cone race until the drive pinion seats in the carrier and a slight drag is noticed when the gear is rotated by hand (2-13 in.-lb. torque to rotate) (Fig. 43).
10. Install the shim and snap ring onto the end of the pinion shaft. Use the thickest shim possible which will permit installation of the snap ring (Fig. 44). Limit the end play to 0.000 - 0.005 inch (0.000 - 0.127 mm). Figure 44 11. Apply a small bead of Permatex No. 2 or silicone sealant to the outer edge of the carrier bore. Install the expansion plug (or seal if equipped with flange for 4WD) into carrier until plug or seal seats firmly in carrier bore (Fig. 45). Figure 45 12.
13. Place the differential case in a vise as shown (Fig. 47). Apply grease to new side gear thrust washers and hubs of the side gears. Apply grease to new pinion mate spherical washers and pinion mate gears. Place the side gears and thrust washers in the case. Install the pinion gears while holding the side gears in place. Rotate the side gears until the holes of the washers and pinion gears line up with the holes of the case.
16. Put the ring gear onto the differential case and start the new capscrews into the gear with your fingers. Tighten the screws, alternating back and forth across the gear to allow the gear to be pulled evenly into place. Tighten the cap screws to a torque of 45 - 65 ft-lb (6.2 9.0 KgM) (Fig. 50). Figure 50 17. When installing new differential bearings, reuse the original shims or use new shims of the same thickness. Press the bearing onto the differential case.
19. Using a dial indicator, check the ring gear backlash in three equally spaced points. Ring gear backlash should be .003 - .007 inch (.076 - .178 mm) and must not vary more than .002 in. between points checked (Fig. 53). If the backlash is not in this range, move the shims which are located beneath the differential bearings, from one side to the other until the correct backlash is attained.
Drive Side Heel Toe Coast Side Heel Toe Backlash correct. Thicker pinion position shims required. Figure 55 Drive Side Heel Toe Coast Side Heel Toe Backlash correct. Thinner pinion position shims required. Figure 56 Drive Side Heel Toe Coast Side Heel Toe Backlash incorrect. Thinner pinion position shim required. Adjust backlash to match.
Gear Pattern Movements Summary 1. Decreasing backlash moves the ring gear closer to the pinion. Drive pattern (convex side of gear) moves lower and toward the toe. Coast pattern (concave side of gear) moves slightly higher and toward the heel. 2. Increasing backlash moves the ring gear away from the pinion. Drive pattern moves higher and toward the heel. Coast pattern moves slightely lower and toward the toe. 3.
Repairs Page 7 - 24 Groundsmaster® 300 Series
Chapter 8 Steering and Brakes Table of Contents INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 SCHEMATICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Steering Valve and Pump Tests . . . . . . .
Introduction Power Steering The Groundsmaster® 300 Series traction units are equipped with power steering. The power steering valve is enclosed in the steering tower at the front of the traction unit. As the steering wheel is turned, the steering valve meters hydraulic fluid to the double-acting steering cylinder on the rear axle and turns the wheels. Hydraulic fluid flow for power steering is supplied by the charge pump on the hydrostatic transmission.
Power Steering Schematics FROM PUMP STEERING VALVE When the steering wheel is turned to the right (Fig. 3), the control valve within the steering valve shifts to close the “AUX” port. This directs oil supplied by the steering pump to the metering section of the steering valve. As the steering wheel is turned, system oil is metered out port “RT” to the steering cylinder.
Specifications Item Specification __________________________________________________________________________________________ Front wheel lug nut torque 45 to 55 ft-lb ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Rear wheel lug nut torque 30 to 35 ft-lb __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Troubleshooting Problem Possible Causes ___________________________________________________________________________________________ Steering Wander Tire pressure incorrect or unequal left to right. Loose or worn steering linkage. Improperly adjusted or worn rear wheel bearings. Rear wheels out of alignment; toe-in / toe-out. Internal leakage of steering cylinder.
Problem Possible Causes __________________________________________________________________________________________ Steering Wheel Lash (Free Movement) Steering wheel loose on column. Steering linkage loose or worn. Steering valve loose at mounting. Air in hydraulic system. Internal leakage in hydraulic cylinder.
Testing Steering Valve Test (Control Valve Section) Using Hydraulic Tester With Flow Meter 1. Engage the parking brake and block the front wheels to prevent movement of the machine. Lower the cutting unit or implement to the floor and turn the engine OFF. 2. Disconnect the hydraulic hose at the charge pump outlet (pressure) fitting. 3. Connect the inlet hose of the tester to the hydraulic fitting on the transmission and the outlet hose of the tester to hose that was disconnected in step 2.
Steering Cylinder Internal Leakage Test 1. Engage the parking brake, and lower the cutting unit to the floor. 2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (counterclockwise) on a 2WD machine or to the right (clockwise) on a 4WD machine, so the steering cylinder rod is extended all the way. 3. Turn the engine OFF. 4. Disconnect the hydraulic hose from the fitting on the rod end of the cylinder. Put a plug in the end of the hose to prevent contamination. 5.
Adjustments Rear Wheel Toe-in Adjustment The rear wheels should have 0 to 1/8 of an inch toe-in when they are pointed straight ahead. To check toe-in, measure the center-to-center distance, at axle height, in front and rear of steering tires. If toe-in is not within specifications, an adjustment is required. 1. Rotate the steering wheel so the rear wheels and steering plate are straight ahead. 2. Loosen the jam nuts on both tie rods.
Brake Adjustment Adjust the service brakes when there is more that one inch of “free travel” of the brake pedals. Free travel is the distance the brake pedal moves before braking resistance is felt. Adjust where brake cables connect to brake pedal mount. When cable is no longer adjustable, star nut on inside of the brake drum must be adjusted to move brake shoes outward. Brake cables must be adjusted again after star nut is adjusted. 1.
Repairs Steering Wheel Removal and Installation Removing the Steering Wheel Remove the cover from the steering wheel hub. Remove the locknut that secures the steering wheel to the shaft (Fig. 15). Pull the steering wheel off the shaft. NOTE: It may be necessary to use a jaw-type puller to remove the steering wheel from the steering shaft. IMPORTANT: DO NOT hit the steering shaft with a hammer. This could damage the steering valve com ponents. Installing the Steering Wheel 1.
Rear Axle Bushing Service (2WD Units) The rear axle must be held in place snugly by the axle pin. Excessive movement of the axle, which is characterized by erratic steering, usually indicates worn bushings. To correct the problem, replace the bushings. 1. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the steering cylinder. Put caps or plugs on all the fittings and hoses to prevent contamination. NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag each of the hoses to show their correct position on the steering cylinder. 2.
7. Connect the tie rod end to the spindle bracket with one (1) nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 25 - 33 ft-lb. Install the jam nut and tighten against the other nut to secure tie rod end. 8. Install the lock nut and cap screw to secure the steering cylinder rod end to the steering pivot. Tighten the nut to 130 to 150 ft-lb. 9. Lubricate the bushings through the grease fitting on the steering pivot.
Rear Wheel Spindle Bushing Service (2WD Units) The rear wheel spindles must fit snugly in the rear axle. Excessive movement of the spindle in the axle indicates that the bushings are probably worn and must be replaced. 7. Apply grease to the inside and outside of the new bushings. Use an arbor press to install the bushings into the top and bottom of the axle tube. The bushings must be flush with ends of the axle tube. 1. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the steering cylinder.
Figure 17 Front Wheel Bearing Service See Axle Shaft Disassembly and Wheel Bearing Service in the Repairs section of Chapter 6 - Differential.
Rear Wheel Bearing Service (2WD Units) Disassemble, clean, repack and adjust the rear wheel bearings after each 500 hours of operation or once a year. Use No. 2 general purpose lithium base grease containing E.P. additive. If operating conditions are extremely dusty and dirty, it may be necessary to perform this maintenance more often. wear, pitting or other noticeable damage. Replace worn or damaged parts. 6.
Adjusting Rear Wheel Bearings 1. Remove dust cap from end of wheel spindle. Also remove cotter pin retaining slotted nut in place (Fig. 18). 2. Rotate the wheel by hand and tighten the slotted nut (Fig. 19) until the bearing binds SLIGHTLY. Then, loosen the nut until the nearest slot and hole in the spindle line up. Reinstall the cotter pin to retain the slotted nut in place. NOTE: The correct end play of the adjusted assembly is .002 -. 005 inches. 1 3.
Steering Cylinder Removal and Installation 1. Engage the parking brakes, lower the cutting units to the ground, turn the engine OFF and remove the key from the ignition switch. 2. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the steering cylinder. Put caps or plugs on all the fittings and hoses to prevent contamination. NOTE: To ease reassembly, tag each of the hoses to show their correct position on the steering cylinder. 3.
Steering Cylinder Service IMPORTANT: To prevent damage to rod or barrel, clamp vise on pivot ends only. DO NOT clamp against smooth rod surface. 1. After removing the cylinder, pump oil out of cylinder into a drain pan by SLOWLY moving piston in and out of cylinder bore. 2. Plug the ports and clean the outside of the cylinder. 3. Mount cylinder in a vise so rod end of cylinder is tilted up slightly. Do not close the vise so firmly that the cylinder barrel could become distorted. 4.
Brake Shoe Replacement CAUTION CAUTION The brake linings contain asbestos fibers. Breathing dust containing asbestos fibers may be hazardous to your health and may cause serious respiratory or other bodily harm. When servicing wheel brake parts, do not create dust by grinding, sanding or filing brake linings or by cleaning wheel brake parts with a dry brush or compressed air. (Use a water dampened cloth.) Use proper protective equipment when working with asbestos materials.
Steering Valve Removal and Installation 1. Engage the parking brakes, lower the cutting units to the ground, turn the engine OFF and remove the key from the ignition switch. 2. Remove the cutting unit or other implement. 3. Remove the steering wheel. 4. Remove the six (6) self-tapping screws securing the steering tower cover (Fig. 23A). Slide the steering tower cover off of steering column and parking brake rod. 5. Clean outside of the steering valve and the area around the hydraulic fittings.
Steering Valve Service Before Disassembly When disassembling any of the parts, use a clean work bench. Wash all parts in solvent and dry them with compressed air. DO NOT wipe them dry with a cloth of paper as lint and dirt may remain. Keep each part separate to prevent nicks and burrs. Components of the steering valve are stacked on four bolts and held in alignment with alignment pins. The alignment pins are designed to be a slip fit into the components.
Disassembly of Steering Valve 1. To avoid distorting or damaging the steering valve, do not clamp it directly into a vise. Clamp a service assembly fixture securely in a vise (Fig. 25). Put the steering valve, input shaft first, into the service assembly fixture. Attache the steering valve to the fixture with four (4) 5/16-24 UNF nuts (Fig. 26). NOTE: Before beginning the disassembly of the steering valve, study the relative positions of the alignment grooves on the side of the components in the assembly.
4. Grasp the port cover assembly (four plates bonded together) and lift it from the unit. Remove and discard the four o-rings and seal ring (Fig. 29). Figure 29 5. Remove the loosened plug and o-ring assembly from the port cover. Be ready to catch the steel check ball as it falls from its cavity (Fig. 30). Discard the o-ring. 6. Inspect the port cover for port fitting sealing surface scratches and thread damage. Replace the port cover if it is damaged.
11. Remove the valve ring (Fig. 32). Remove and discard the two seal rings (Fig. 33). The valve ring should be free of nicks and scoring. Figure 32 Figure 33 12. Remove the valve plate by lifting it from the isolation manifold (Fig. 34). 13. Inspect the slot edges and ground surfaces. If the valve plate shows nicks or scoring or the edges are not sharp, it must be replaced. NOTE: The valve ring and valve plate are a matched set and must be replaced as a set.
14. Remove three springs from the isolation manifold pockets (Fig. 35). NOTE: The unit has two different length spring sets. the set you have just removed from the isolation manifold is 1/2 in. (13 mm) long. Keep this spring set separate from the set removed from the port manifold. Figure 35 15. Inspect the springs for bent or distorted coils. If a spring is broken or deformed, all six springs in the unit must be replaced (Fig. 36). Figure 36 16. Remove the hex drive assembly from the drive link (Fig.
18. Remove the two alignment pins that align the port manifold, valve ring and isolation manifold (Fig. 38). Figure 38 19. Remove the isolation manifold (four plates bonded together) (Fig. 39). 20. Inspect the ground surfaces of the isolation manifold. You should notice a “normal” polished pattern due to the rotation of the valve plate, and on the opposite side a “normal” polished pattern due to the action of the commutator cover and commutator seal. The holes and edges should be free of nicks.
22. Remove the drive link from the unit (Fig. 41). 23. Inspect each end of the drive link. the four crowned contact surfaces should not be worn or scored. Replace if wear or scoring is evident. Figure 41 24. Remove the metering ring and discard the two seal rings (Fig. 42). If the metering ring bore is scored, it should be replaced. Figure 42 25. The “metering package” components are held together with eleven hex socket head screws.
26. Remove and discard the commutator seal from the commutator cover (Fig. 44). Figure 44 27. Remove the eleven hex socket head screws, that hold the metering package together (Fig. 45). Use a 3/32 in. allen wrench. Inspect the screws for thread and socket damage and replace as necessary. Figure 45 28. Lift the commutator cover from the metering package (Fig. 46). 29. Inspect the ground surfaces of the commutator cover. You should notice a “normal” polished pattern due to the rotation of the commutator.
30. Remove the commutator ring (Fig. 47). Inspect for cracks, burrs and scoring. IMPORTANT: Handle the commutator ring with care, as it is easily broken. Figure 47 31. Remove the commutator from the rotor (Fig. 48). IMPORTANT: To prevent damage, DO NOT use a screwdriver to remove the commutator. Use a wood dowel if necessary. 32. The commutator is made up of two round plates, pinned and bonded together as a permanent assembly that cannot be disassembled. Inspect the ground surfaces of the commutator.
34. Remove the drive link spacer (Fig. 50). Replace it if it grooved or worn. 35. With the rotor set lying on the drive plate, the rotor should rotate and orbit freely within the stator. The commutator side of the stator face must be free of grooves or scoring. NOTE: the rotor and stator are a matched set. You must replace them as a matched set, if either is worn or damaged. Figure 50 36. Check the rotor lobe “tip” to stator lobe “tip” clearance, with a feeler gauge (Fig. 51).
39. Inspect the thrust bearing side of the drive plate (Fig. 53) for brinelling (dents) or spalling (flaking). The flat sides of the input shaft engagement hole should not be grooved or worn. If any of these conditions in steps 38 and 39 are present, the drive plate must be replaced. Figure 53 40.Remove the face seal, back-up ring, and face seal spacer from the upper cover plate (Fig. 54). Discard the face seal and back-up ring. Keep the metal spacer. Figure 54 41.
43. Remove the upper cover plate (four plates bonded together) (Fig. 56). Inspect the upper cover plate. You should notice some polishing due to the action of the seal. The plate should be free of brinelling (dents) or spalling (flaking). If it is damaged, the upper cover plate must be replaced. Figure 56 44. Slide the seal from the jacket tube (Fig. 57). If the seal is worn or damaged, it must be replaced. Figure 57 45.
47. Remove the washer and upper cover & jacket (Fig. 59). NOTE: The retaining plate and upper cover & jacket are a matched set. If either part is worn or damaged, both must be replaced. Figure 59 48. Inspect the bushing at the top of the cover & jacket for wear or damage. If bushing replacement is necessary. put the upper cover & jacket in a vise. Use a pliers or punch to straighten the crimped areas on the bushing end of the jacket tube (Fig. 60). IMPORTANT: Hold the steering tube in a soft-jaw vise.
50. Remove the nuts holding the four bolts to the fixture, and remove the bolts (Fig. 62). Check the bolt threads for wear or damage.
Assembly of Steering Valve Replace all seals and o-rings with new ones. Make sure the seals and o-rings remain seated correctly when components are assembled. Before assembling the steering valve, wash all parts in clean solvent. Dry the parts with compressed air. DO NOT wipe them dry with a cloth or paper as lint and dirt may remain. 1. Put the four bolts into the fixture with the shortest threaded end of the bolts through the fixture holes (Fig. 63).
3. Put the upper cover and jacket on the four bolts with the jacket tube pointing down through the hole in fixture (Fig. 66). Make sure the square shoulder of the bolts engage the square holes in the upper cover. 4. Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to the recessed face of the retainer plate and washer. Put the retainer plate into the upper cover & jacket with the recessed retainer face out. Put the washer against the recessed face of the retainer plate. Figure 66 5.
8. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the face of the upper cover plate, input shaft and face seal (Fig. 70). Figure 70 9. Assemble the seal back-up ring and face seal onto the seal spacer (Fig. 71). Figure 71 10. Install the face seal, back-up ring and spacer assembly over the end of the input shaft and onto the upper cover plate (Fig. 72).
11. Put the drive plate on a clean lint-free surface with the eleven tapped holes facing up. Put the rotor set on top of the drive plate with the five pin holes facing up. Rotate the stator until the eleven hex socket head screw relief slots are aligned with the tapped holes in the drive plate (Fig. 73). Figure 73 12. Apply a small amount of clean multi-purpose grease to the spacer and insert it into the drive slot in the rotor (Fig. 74).
14. Align the five holes and press the five alignment pins in place (Fig. 76). IMPORTANT: Make sure the five alignment pins are pressed below the surface of the commutator. Figure 76 15. Put a few drops of oil into each recess in the commutator (Fig. 77). Figure 77 16. Put the commutator ring (either side up) on top of the stator (Fig. 78). Align the commutator ring screw recesses with the stator screw slots.
17. Put the commutator cover on top of the commutator ring with the flat surface towards the commutator (Fig. 79). Align the screw holes in the cover, with the screw holes in the drive plate. Figure 79 18. Screw the eleven hex socket head cap screws loosely into the metering package (Fig. 80). NOTE: The commutator ring must be concentric with the drive plate within 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) total indicator reading AFTER tightening the eleven hex socket head cap screws.
20. Put another piece of the 0.007 in. (0.18 mm) shim stock between the drive plate and each of the three pieces of shim stock already in place. Lift the metering ring and metering package and remove the wood block. Push the metering package and shims into the metering ring until the drive plate and shims are at least flush with the metering ring (Fig. 82). Figure 82 21. Reverse the metering ring and metering package as a unit on a flat surface.
22. Insert the LARGE tang of the drive link into the slot in the rotor (Fig. 85). IMPORTANT: An incorrect (reversed) assembly of the drive link will prevent the assembly of the hex drive. Figure 85 23. Grasp the drive link and rotate the metering package by hand to make sure the parts do not bind (Fig. 86). The rotor should orbit inside the stator. If they bind, disassemble the metering package, correct the cause and repeat the assembly and concentricity procedures. Figure 86 24.
25. Put the bearing spacer onto the face of the upper cover plate (Fig. 88). Figure 88 26. Lightly grease the roller thrust bearing and put it on the upper cover plate, inside the bearing spacer (Fig. 89). Figure 89 27. Inspect the exposed face of the drive plate making sure it is clean and lint free. Apply a small amount of clean multi-purpose grease on the drive plate (Fig. 90).
28. Put the metering package, drive plate side first, into the metering ring (Fig. 91). Revolve the input shaft or metering package until the hole in the drive plate engages the end of the input shaft and the drive plate is seated on the thrust bearing. When properly seated, the metering package will be below the surface of the metering ring. Figure 91 29. Apply clean multi-purpose grease on the new commutator seal and put it into the commutator cover seal groove (Fig. 92).
31. Put two alignment pins into the metering ring (Fig. 94). Figure 94 32. Stack the isolation manifold (4 plates bonded together) onto the metering ring, aligning the grooves on the side of the manifold with the grooves on the side of the upper cover plate (Fig. 95). Align the alignment pin holes with the alignment pins in the metering ring. The isolation manifold surface without the recessed slots must be toward the metering ring. Figure 95 33.
34. Put the three 1/2 in. (13 mm) springs into the spring pockets of the isolation manifold (Fig. 97). NOTE: Two different length springs are used in the unit. Be sure to use the 1/2 in. (13 mm) length springs during this part of the assembly. Figure 97 35. Apply clean grease to a seal ring and put it in the valve ring recess that will face down when installed. Install the valve ring over the bolts and alignment pins with the seal ring facing the isolation manifold (Fig. 98).
37. To install the valve plate correctly, first carefully study Figures 93 and 94 for positioning of the valve plate spring slots and other cavities in relation to the spring and spring recesses on the isolation manifold. Be sure to use the alignment grooves on the side of the isolation manifold for orientation. Put the valve plate with the surface that reads “shaft side” down over the hex drive assembly.
39. Put the port manifold (three plates bonded together), valve side up, in a clean surface. Install three 3/4 in. springs into the spring pockets (Fig. 103). Figure 103 40. Apply a few drops of oil to the valve plate. Align the grooves on the side of the port manifold with the grooves on the side of the isolation manifold and assemble the port manifold with the springs toward the valve plate (Fig. 104). Be careful not to pinch a spring during installation.
42. Apply clean multi-purpose grease to the four o-rings and seal ring. Put the new o-rings and seal ring into their proper location in the port cover (Fig. 106). Figure 106 43. Align a groove on the side of the port cover with the grooves on the side of the port manifold and put the port cover into position (Fig. 107).
44. Install the lock nuts onto the bolts. Tighten each nut gradually until resistance is felt (Fig. 108). Tighten to a torque of 20 - 24 ft-lb (27 - 33 Nm) in the sequence shown (Fig. 109). Figure 108 Figure 109 45. Tighten the plug to a torque of 8 - 12 ft-lb (11 - 16 Nm) (Fig. 110).
46. Apply a small amount of clean multi-purpose grease on the lip of the seal. Install the seal onto the jacket tube and input shaft (Fig. 111). 47. Make a final inspection of the relative groove positions on the side of the unit (Fig. 24). Components of the steering valve with alignment grooves, must be assembled so that their alignment grooves are positioned as illustrated for the valve to function correctly (Fig. 24). Disassemble and correct the assembly if necessary. 48.
Chapter 9 Transmission Coupler and PTO Table of Contents INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Engine to Transmission Coupler . . . . . . . . . . . . . PTO System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Checking Drive Coupling Alignment . . . . . . . . . . Adjusting Drive Coupling Alignment . . . . . . . . . .
Introduction Engine to Transmission Coupler (Fig. 1) Engine power is transmitted from the engine through a flexible coupling and drive link to the hydrostatic transmission. With this Toro design, there is no clutch used between the engine and the transmission. PTO lever fully forward to the ON position; this will start the implement or cutting unit blades. Slowly pull the lever backward to the OFF position to stop the implement’s operation.
Troubleshooting Engine to Transmission Coupler Problem Possible Cause Output shaft bearing failure. Lack of lubrication. Output shaft out of alignment. Excessive vibration of drive coupling. Drive coupling bent or deformed. Loose fasteners. Drive coupling out of alignment. Flexible (rubber) couplings wear prematurely. Drive coupling bent or deformed. Loose fasteners. Drive coupling out of alignment. Pump hub damaged. Drive coupling bent or deformed. Loose fasteners. Drive coupling out of alignment.
Adjustments Checking Drive Coupling Alignment (Fig. 2) When either the hydrostatic axle or the engine is removed and after all parts are reinstalled, the alignment of the drive coupling must be checked. In addition, any excess vibration usually indicates misalignment of the drive coupling. The drive coupling will be damaged when misalignment is more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).
Correcting PTO Drive Belt Slippage (Fig. 5) If belt begins to slip because it has stretched or because of worn linkage: 1. Unlatch and remove instrument cover. 2. Move PTO control lever to ON position. 3. Measure length of PTO spring between flat washers. There should be a spring length of 3-3/16 inches (81 mm). 4. To adjust, hold head of adjusting screw with wrench (under PTO actuating arm) and turn locknut. 5. Move PTO lever to OFF position and install instrument cover. Figure 5 1. 3-3/16 in. (81 mm) 2.
PTO Brake Adjustment (Fig. 8) 1 . Lower the implement to the shop floor, turn the engine off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and engage the parking brake. 2. Move the P.T.O. lever to the ENGAGE position. Loosen the adjusting locknut so that the brake is free to move. Then move the P.T.O. lever to OFF and position the brake in the grooves of the pulley. 3. Tighten the locknut until the spacer contacts the side of the brake bracket.
Repairs Drive Coupling Removal and Installation (Fig. 9) Removing Drive Couplings 1. Lower the cutting unit to the shop floor, turn the engine off, remove the key from the ignition switch and engage the parking brake. 2. Raise the seat and secure it in that position. 3. Jack up the back end of the machine and support it with jackstands to prevent it from falling accidentally. 4. Block the front and back of the traction unit’s drive wheels to prevent the machine from rolling. 5.
Engine Pulley Yoke Bearing Replacement (Fig. 10) 1. Position the machine on a level surface, turn the engine off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove the drive coupling as described in “Removing Drive Couplings”. 3. Remove the engine hub from the crankshaft pulley after loosening the two setscrews that secure it in place. Remove the woodruff key. 4.
PTO Belt Replacement (Fig. 12) The PTO belt is a special double belt referred to as a “torque team belt.” 1. To replace the belt, lower the implement to the shop floor, turn the engine off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove the drive coupling from between the engine pulley and transmission hub; refer to “Removing Drive Couplings”. 3. Move the P.T.O. lever to the ON position and remove the P.T.O. brake; refer to “Replacing The P.T.O. Brake”. 4. Move the P.T.O.
Removing PTO Control Lever and Linkage (Fig. 13, 14) 1. Lower the implement to the shop floor and turn the engine off. Engage the parking brake. 2. Unlatch and remove the instrument panel cover. 3. With the control lever in the OFF position, the P.T.O. compression spring tension is released and the linkage can be removed or repaired. 4. Remove the long cap screw (Fig. 14, Item 35) that passes through the P.T.O. compression spring (Item 48).
PTO Shaft and Bearing Service (Fig. 14) 1. Remove the P.T.O. belt; refer to “Replacing the P.T.O. Belt”. 2. Remove the clevis pin (Item 7) from the P.T.O. lever and compression spring yoke. 6. Loosen the setscrews (Item 46) on the P.T.O. shaft bearing collars (Item 41). Use a punch and hammer to rotate the collars in the opposite direction of shaft rotation. Remove the shaft (Item 43) and bearings (Item 40). 7. Replace any worn bushings, bearings and shafts. 3.
PTO Drive Shaft Removal (Fig. 15) DANGER Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O. lever when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected to the gearbox on the cutting unit. If the en gine is started and the P.T.O. shaft Is allowed to rotate, serious Injury could result. 1. Position the machine on a level surface, lower the cutting unit to the shop floor, turn the engine off, remove the key from the ignition switch, and engage the parking brake. 2.
PTO Drive Shaft Universal Joint Replacement (Fig. 16, 17) 1 Remove the P.T.O. drive shaft. 2. Separate the two sections of the P.T.O. shaft. 3. Mount the section to be repaired in a vise so that the U-joint is pointing upward. NOTE: If the splined portion is to be repaired, protect the splines from vise damage with wooden blocks, vise jaw cushions, etc. 4. Use two thin screwdrivers to remove the “C” shaped snap ring from each of the U-joint rollers (located inside of each yoke).
Installing the PTO Drive Shaft (Fig. 18, 19) DANGER Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O. lever when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected to the gearbox on the cutting unit. If the en gine is started and the P.T.O. shaft Is allowed to rotate, serious Injury could result. The P.T.O. Drive Shaft has two major components. When replacing it on the machine, the spline shaft portion attaches to the traction unit and the tube portion attaches to the cutting unit gearbox. IMPORTANT: The P.T.O.
Chapter 10 GM322-D or GM325-D with Inasaka axle 4WD Rear Axle Table of Contents SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Over-Running Clutch Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rear Wheel Toe-in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Groundsmaster® 300 Series 2 3 3 4 4 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications Item Specification __________________________________________________________________________________________ Lubricant (Fig.
General Information Over-Running Clutch Operation A drive shaft connected to the front axle provides power for the rear 4WD drive axle. The drive shaft tor the rear ax l e incorporates an OVER-RUNNING (ROLLER) 49 RPM Locked Unlocked CLUTCH THAT TRANSMITS POWER ONLY IN THE FORWARD DIRECTION (Fig. 4).
Adjustments Rear Wheel Toe-in (Fig. 6) 1. Measure center–to–center distance (at axle height) at front and rear of steering tires. Front measurement must be 0 to 1/8 in. less than rear measurement. 2. Remove cotter pin and nut securing one tie rod ball joint to mounting bracket on axle and disconnect ball joint from axle (Fig. 7). 3. Loosen screw on tie rod clamp. Rotate ball joint in or out to adjust length of tie rod. 4. Reinstall ball joint ot mounting bracket and check wheel toe-in. 5.
Repairs Drive Shaft Service 0.34 ± 0.03″ Arrow end of roller clutches must face 6-bolt flange end of clutch housing toward rear axle) 31 0.040″ MAX 30 30 A 29 37 B 36 Apply Never-seeze 34 Detail A Detail B B 33 31 32 39 35 Figure 8 Removing Drive Shaft Clutch Service 1. Put machine on a level surface, lower cutting unit, stop the engine and remove the key from the ignition switch. Block the rear wheels to prevent the machine from moving. 1.
0.34 ± 0.03″ Arrow end of roller clutches must face 6-bolt flange end of clutch housing toward rear axle) 31 0.040″ MAX 30 30 A 29 37 B 36 Apply Never-seeze 34 Detail A Detail B B 33 31 32 39 35 Figure 9 5. Put thrust washer (Item 14) in housing adjacent to roller clutch as shown. Press both seals (Item 13) into end of housing to dimensions shown. Seals must be installed with lip facing out. Installing Drive Shaft. 6.
Rear Axle Removal and Installation 45 - 55 ft-lb Figure 10A Figure 10B 1. Remove drain plugs from axle and allow oil to drain into a container (Fig. 2). 2. Remove drive shaft (see Drive Shaft Service). 8. Remove nut (Fig. 10A, Item 14) and flatwasher (Item 15). Remove capscrews (Item 6) from pin (Item 7). Remove the pin. This will release the rear axle and washers from the support (Item 9). Carefully pull the axle out from under the machine. 3. Disconnect clutch engagement cable from rear axle. 4.
Rear Axle Repair Apply Loctite 20 - 24 ft-lb 16 - 20 ft-lb Shim for backlash adjustment Measure backlash here: 0.003 - 0.01″ 16 - 20 ft-lb Tighten to pre-load bearings. Pinion shaft should rotate with 2.0 - 5.5 in-lb torque Shim for bevel gear to pinion contact adjustment Figure 12 1. Remove bolts (Fig. 12, Item 60) securing axle tubes (Item 16, 61) to differential case (Item 24). Separate axle tubes and axles from differental case. 4. Disassemble differential case (Fig. 12): A.
6 - 8 ft-lb 12 - 20 ft-lb Apply Loctite 12 - 20 ft-lb Figure 13 E. Tighten bolts (Item 1, 40) to a torque of 16 - 20 ft-lb (220-280 Kg-Cm). Assembly 1. Use new gaskets and seals when reassembling axle. F. Assemble clutch parts and install clutch cover (Item 53). Install new oil seals (Item 54, 55). 2. Assemble differential case (Fig. 12): A. Assemble differential. Use medium strength Loctite on bolts (Item 7) and tighten evenly to a torque of 20 - 24 ft-lb (270-330 Kg-Cm). B.
(Item 38). Note that top two (2) capscrews (Item 39), securing cover (Item 30) are a shorter length. 3. Assemble knuckle assembly (Fig. 13): A. Insert needle bearing (Item 22), washer (Item 21), knuckle pin (Item 20), spacer (Item 19) and bevel gear (Item 18) into axle gear box (Item 23). Fasten bearing retainer (Item 15) with bolts (Item 13) and tighten bolts evenly to a torque of 6 - 8 ft-lb (80120 Kg-Cm). E.
Chapter 10.1 GM 325–D or GM 328–D with Dae Dong Axle 4WD Rear Axle Table of Contents NOTE: For GM322–D or GM325–D with Inasaka axle, see Chapter 10 – 4WD Rear Axle in this manual. SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Steering Stop Bolt Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 4WD Rear Axle . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications Item Specification Wheel lug nut torque (rear) 45 to 55 ft-lbs. (61 to 75 Nm) Rear wheel toe-in 0.000 in. (0.0 mm) Tire pressure (front and rear) 21 psi (145 kPa) Rear axle lubricant SAE 80W90, API GL-5 gear lube Bidirectional clutch lubricant 4WD Rear Axle (Rev. G) (Dae Dong Axle) Mobil 424 hydraulic fluid Page 10.
Adjustments Steering Stop Bolt Adjustment The rear axle steering stop bolts help prevent over–travel of the steering cylinder in case of impacts on rear wheels. When the steering cylinder is fully extended, a gap of 1/16” (1.6 mm) should exist between left side bevel gear case casting and stop bolt (Fig. 1). When the steering cylinder is fully retracted, a gap of 1/16” (1.6 mm) should exist between right side bevel gear case casting and stop bolt. 2 1 Figure 1 1.
Repairs NOTE: See Traction Unit Operator’s Manual for Maintenance intervals and instructions. 4WD Rear Axle 23 24 32 31 30 29 28 33 27 25 22 56 19 36 55 26 21 18 34 35 35 37 57 20 34 54 53 52 51 58 39 17 49 16 15 13 14 10 40 41 11 9 RIGHT 6 5 4 46 45 1 3 7 8 42 43 44 50 12 2 FRONT 38 48 47 45 to 55 ft–lbs. (61 to 75 Nm) Figure 2 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
Removal (Fig. 2) Installation (Fig. 2) 1. Park machine on a level surface, lower cutting deck (or implement), stop engine, engage parking brake and remove key from the ignition switch. 1. Position rear axle support to axle. Install thrust washers (items 52 and 53) between axle boss and axle support to minimize clearance. 2. Drain oil from rear axle (see Traction Unit Operator’s Manual). 2. Install rear axle pin (item 27) to secure axle to rear axle support.
Bevel Gear Case and Axle Case The following procedures assume the rear axle assembly has been removed from the machine. 35 to 41 ft–lbs. (47 to 56 Nm) 1 Removal 6 1. Remove the mounting screws, nuts, and lock washers. Remove the bevel gear case/axle case assembly and O-ring from the axle support (Fig. 3). 5 4 2. Mark both right and left bevel gear case/axle case assemblies. 2 3 35 to 41 ft–lbs. (47 to 56 Nm) IMPORTANT: Do not interchange right and left bevel gear case/axle case assemblies. 1. 2. 3.
5. Remove the knuckle pin mounting screws and the knuckle pin. Remove the gasket and any remaining gasket material from either mating surface (Fig. 6). 6. While holding the bevel gear case, lightly tap the upper end of the bevel gear shaft out of the upper bearing and upper bevel gear. 17 to 20 ft–lb (23 to 27 N–m) 1 Threadlocking Compound 3 5 4 7. Pull the bevel gear case from the axle case and remove the upper bevel gear, collar, spacer, and thrust washer from the gear case. 7 9 8.
Installation 1. Coat new shaft seals with grease and install in axle case and bevel gear case as shown (Fig. 8). 3 2 1 1. Axle case 2. Bevel gear case 2. Install the lower bevel gear, and bevel gear shaft in the axle case cover. Coat a new O-ring with grease and install the axle case cover (Fig. 9). Tighten cover screws to 17 to 20 ft-lbs. (23 to 27 Nm). 3. Slide the bevel gear case over the bevel gear shaft and install the thrust washer, spacer, bevel gear, and collar.
5. Determine necessary quantity of support shims. B. Position support shims that were removed during disassembly between axle case support and axle case. Install mounting screws into axle case. Slowly tighten screws while frequently checking for clearance (vertical endplay) between axle case support and knuckle pin. If binding of components is noted before screws are fully tightened, add additional support shims. Torque screws from 57 to 67 ft–lbs. (77 to 91 Nm). C.
9. Remove the bevel gear case/axle case assembly from the axle support. Coat a new O-ring with grease and temporarily install the axle cover assembly. Position a dial indicator at the tooths center. Prevent the axle from turning and measure the lower bevel gear to axle gear backlash (Fig. 12). LOWER BEVEL GEAR BACKLASH: 0.004 to 0.016 in. (0.10 to 0.40 mm) 10.Adjust backlash by increasing or reducing axle bearing shim thickness (see Axle Shafts in this section of this manual).
Axle Shafts The following procedures assume the rear axle assembly has been removed from the machine. 17 to 20 ft–lbs. (23 to 27 Nm) Removal 1 4 1. Remove the axle cover mounting screws. Remove the axle cover from the axle case as an assembly (Fig. 15). 3 2. Use a bearing puller to remove the bearing and bevel gear as shown (Fig. 16). 3. Remove the shims, spacer, and retaining ring. Drive the axle out of the bearing and cover. Remove and discard the axle shaft seal. 4.
Input Shaft/Pinion Gear The following procedures assume the rear axle assembly has been removed from the machine. Removal 1. Remove input shaft/pinion gear assembly from the axle support. Remove the shims and bearing case Oring. 7 2. Release the stake washer and remove the locknut. Remove and discard the stake washer (Fig. 18). 5 4 3. Drive the input shaft/pinion gear out from the outer bearing cone and bearing case. Remove and discard the oil seal and O-ring. 8 4.
9. Use a depth gauge to measure the distance from the end face of the input shaft/pinion gear to the mating surface of the bearing case. Subtract the “Design Cone Center Distance” from this distance to determine initial shim thickness (Fig. 20). Design Cone Center Distance 1 DESIGN CONE CENTER DISTANCE (distance from mating surface of axle support to end face of pinion gear): 1.870 + 0.002 in. (47.5 + 0.05 mm) 2 NOTE: Bearing case shims are available in 0.004 in. (0.1 mm) and 0.008 in. (0.
Differential Gear The following procedures assume the rear axle assembly has been removed from the machine. 35 to 41 ft–lbs. (47 to 56 Nm) 5 Removal 1 7 1. Remove bevel gear case/axle case assemblies (see Bevel Gear Case/Axle Case Assembly in this section of this manual). 6 2 IMPORTANT: Do not interchange right and left differential shafts assemblies. 2. Mark and pull the differential shaft assemblies from the axle support (see Differential Shafts in this section of this manual). 3.
Inspection 1. Measure the differential side gear O.D. and the differential case I.D. to determine the side gear to case clearance (Fig. 25). Replace components as necessary. SIDE GEAR TO CASE CLEARANCE: 0.002 to 0.012 in. (0.05 to 0.30 mm) 1 SIDE GEAR O.D. (Factory Spec.): 1.335 to 1.337 in. (33.91 to 33.95 mm) DIFFERENTIAL CASE I.D. (Factory Spec.): 1.339 to 1.341 in. (34.00 to 34.06 mm) 2 2. Measure the differential pinion shaft O.D. and the pinion gear I.D.
Installation 3 1. If the ring gear was removed from the differential case, use medium strength Loctite thread locker and tighten the mounting screws from 22 to 25 ft-lb (30 to 34 N–m). 2 1 2. Apply molybdenum disulfide lubricant (Three Bond 1901 or equivalent) to the splines and bearing surfaces of the differential pinion gears, pinion washers and side gears. 3. Install the side gear shims and side gears in their original location in the differential case. 4.
Pinion Gear to Ring Gear Engagement The final position of the pinion gear is verified by using the gear contact pattern method as described in the following procedure. PROFILE TOP LAND GEAR TOOTH DEFINITIONS (Fig. 29): Toe – the portion of the tooth surface at the end towards the center. TOE HEEL Heel – the portion of the gear tooth at the outer end. LENGTHWISE BEARING ARC Top Land – top surface of tooth. 1.
Gear Pattern Movement Summary Heel Contact Base Contact Every gear has a characteristic pattern. The illustrations show typical patterns only and explain how patterns shift as gear location is changed. 1. If contact is toward the heel or base of the gear (Fig. 32): A. Install thicker or additional bearing case shim(s) to move pinion shaft toward ring gear. Figure 32 B. Install thinner or remove differential bearing shim(s) to move ring gear backward. C.
Bidirectional Clutch RIGHT FRONT 2 10 1 9 11 7 5 6 4 3 12 8 Loctite #242 Anti–seize Lubricant Figure 34 1. 2. 3. 4. Clutch locator adapter Cap screw (2 used) Cap screw (2 used) Bidirectional clutch 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Spacer Flat washer Lock washer Cap screw Lock washer (6 used) Socket head screw (6 used) Drive shaft assembly Rear axle assembly Removal (Fig. 34) Installation (Fig. 34) 1.
Bidirectional Clutch Service Hylomar Jointing Compound 1 DRIVE SHAFT 4 6 10 3 12 REAR AXLE 2 5 14 14 ft–lb (19 N–m) 7 16 8 18 9 11 13 15 17 Figure 35 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. End plate Socket head screw (6 used) Oil seal Snap ring Bearing Housing 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Phillips head screw w/o–ring Hub Needle bearing Thrust washer Wave spring Roller cage assembly Disassembly (Fig. 35) 1. Thoroughly clean exterior of clutch before disassembly. 2. Disassemble clutch using Figure 35 as a guide.
Chapter 11 72″ Cutting Units Table of Contents SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Grass Deflector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Height of Cut Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Mismatch Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications ITEM SPECIFICATION __________________________________________________________________________________________ Cutting width 71.
General Information Grass Deflector WARNING The grass deflector (Fig. 2) is a safety device that diverts grass and other foreign objects being discharged downward. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT THE DEFLECTOR BE IN ITS NORMAL OPERATING POSITION WHENEVER THE CUTTING UNIT IS ENGAGED.
Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Page 11 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series
Adjustments Height of Cut Adjustment (Fig. 3, 4) The height of cut is adjustable from 1 to 4 inches in 1/2 inch increments, by adding or removing an equal number of spacers on the front and rear caster forks. The height of cut chart below gives the combinations of spacers to use for all height of cut settings. NOTE: 1/4 inch spacers are available and can be ordered from your Toro distributor by Toro Part No. 27-1040. (Quantity - 8).
Checking and Correcting Mismatch of Blades (Fig. 5) If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be corrected by making sure the blades are straight and all blades are cutting on the same plane. 1. Using a 3 foot long carpenters level, find a flat surface on the shop floor. 2. Set rear caster wheels in the upper hole of caster forks and adjust height of cut so all six height of cut spacers are below the caster arm. 3.
Belt Tension Adjustment (Fig. 6) 1. Lower the cutting unit to the floor and shut off the engine. Engage the parking brake. 2. Remove the deck covers from the top of the cutting unit. 3. Loosen the idler pulley for the belt being adjusted and move idler into belt using a pry bar, until you get the proper tension. Tighten the idler pulley flange nut. Recommended tension is 3/8 inch deflection when an eight (8) pound load is applied to the center of the 25 inch span between pulleys.
Repairs Blade Service (Fig. 7, 8, 9) The blade must be replaced if a solid object is hit, the blade is out of balance, worn or bent. Always use genuine TORO replacement blades to ensure safety and optimum performance. Never use blades made by other manufacturers because they could be dangerous. Do not try to straighten a blade that is bent, and never weld a broken or cracked blade. Always use a new TORO blade to assure continued safety certification of the product. 1 .
Inspecting and Sharpening Blade 1. Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to prevent it from falling accidentally. 2. Examine cutting ends of the blade carefully, especially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet. Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the blade, check the blade before using the machine.
Belt Replacement (Fig. 10) 1. Lower cutting unit to the shop floor, shut off the engine and engage the parking brake. Remove covers on top of cutting unit and set covers aside. Loosen idler pulleys to release tension of belts. 2. Remove carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts holding gear box in place. Lift gear box off mounting plate and lay it on top of cutting unit. 3. Remove belts from spindle pulleys. 4.
Caster Arm Bushing Service (Fig. 11) The caster arms have bushings pressed into the top and bottom portion of the tube and after many hours of operation, the bushings will wear. To check the bushings, move caster fork back and forth and from side-toside. If caster spindle is loose inside the bushings, bushings are worn and must be replaced. 1. Raise cutting unit and block it so it cannot fall accidentally. 2. Remove lynch pin and spacers from top of caster spindle. 3.
Rear Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 12) The rear caster wheels rotate on high quality roller bearings which are supported by spanner bushings. Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal. However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a worn bearing. 1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel and (2) washers between caster fork. 2.
Front Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 13) The front caster wheels rotate on high-quality roller bearings which are supported by spanner bushings. Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal. However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a worn bearing. 1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel and (2) washers between caster fork. 2.
Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit (Fig. 14, 15, 16, 17) 1. Position machine on level surface, lower cutting unit to the shop floor, shut engine off and engage parking brake. 2. Remove self-tapping screws securing shield to top of cutting unit and set shield aside. 3. Drive roll pin out of yoke and input shaft of gear box. Also, loosen cap screws and lock nuts. Slide yoke off the input shaft.
WARNING Since the right hand push arm is spring loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand push arm is spring-loaded to about 150 pounds, a helper is needed to release push arms from cutting unit. Sudden release of the push arms could cause injury. 5. Have a helper push down on the right push arm while you remove the cap screws, flat washers, lock washers and nuts securing ball joint mount to caster arm on cutting unit.
Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit (Fig. 18, 19, 20, 21) 1. Position machine on level surface and shut engine off. 2. Move cutting unit into position in front of traction unit. WARNING Since the right hand push arm is spring loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand push arm is spring-loaded to about 150 pounds, a helper is needed to push the push arm down. Sudden release of the push arm could cause injury. Figure 18 3. Slide a large flat washer (1/2 I.D. x 1-1/4 in. O.D.
8. Line up holes in yoke and input shaft of gear box. Slide yoke onto shaft and secure parts together with roll pin (3/16 x 1-1/2 in.). Tighten (2) capscrews and locknuts securing yoke to input shaft. 9. Mount PTO shield over input shaft and onto gear box mounting plate with two self-tapping screws. 10. Attach lift chains to lift arm and cutting unit with six (6) shackles, shackle pins (3/8 x 1-1/2 in.) and cotter pins (1/8 x 3/4 in.).
Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service (Fig. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28) Removing Push Arms, Torsion Springs and Bushings 1. Separate cutting unit from traction unit and roll cutting unit away from traction unit. 2. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while you put a 4" x 4" block of wood between the chassis and the top of the push arm, and across the full width of the machine. 3. Loosen the large jam nut on the left-hand ball joint at the end of the push arm.
7. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts holding the brake mount and pedal assembly in place. Lay the brake mount and the pedal assembly on the wheel. 8. Have a helper push down slightly on the left push arm while you remove the block of wood between the push arm and the chassis. Slowly and carefully allow the push arm to move upward until all spring load is released. 9.
Installing Push Arms, Torsion Springs and Bushings 1. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings. Using a hammer and flat plate, carefully drive the bushings into the push arm pivot tubes. The bushings must be flush with the end of the tube. 2. Inspect the torsion springs. If the springs are damaged, use new springs when assembling the parts. 3. Slide the torsion springs onto the inside of the push arm pivot tubes.
Gearbox Removal and Installation (Fig. 29, 30) Removing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 1. Lower the cutting unit, shut engine off and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove shroud covering universal drive shaft. Disconnect drive shaft from gearbox. Remove belt covers from top of cutting unit. DANGER Do not start the engine and engage the P.T.O. when the P.T.O. shaft is not connected to the gearbox. If engine is started and the P.T.O. shaft is allowed to rotate, serious injury could result. 3.
Installing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 1. Install four (4) isolation mounts into two (2) brackets. Use water or lubricant to ease installation. Install mounts from bottom of bracket. 2. Install bracket on each side of gearbox with capscrews and lockwashers. Tighten capscrews to a torque of 20 - 26 ft-lb. 10. Mount gearbox with brackets onto top of cutting unit. Insert four (4) carriage bolts up from bottom of cutting unit and install flatwasher and nut on each bolt to secure the gearbox.
Gear Box Repair (Fig. 31, 32, 33) Figure 31 Gear Box Disassembly 6. Remove bearing cups (Item 14) from cap by putting a punch through the shaft bore and through the seal and then tapping against the back of the bearing cup until driven out of the cap. 1. Drain lubricant from gear box. 2. Remove capscrews and lift out shaft and cap assemblies. 3. Remove cap assemblies and bearing cones (Item 12) from shafts (Item 17, 19).
17 12 14 4, 5, 6 16 9 3 1 10 11 19 13 2 7 18 8 Figure 32 cap with the open side toward the machined side of the cap. Gear Box Pre-Assembly 1. Start with one of the shafts (Item 17) and put one of the gears (Item 10) over the shaft so the tooth side is towards the turned end of the shaft. Align the keyway in the gear with the keyway in the shaft and install one of the keys (Item 8) in the keyway. 2. Install one set of shims (Item 11) onto the turned end of the shaft.
Gear Box Final Assembly 1. Bearing drag is adjusted by the amount of gaskets (Item 4, 5, 6) used between the cap and housing machined surfaces. 2. Put two 0.015 in. gaskets on the machined surface of the housing, then install the shaft and cap assembly in the housing so the bearing cone (Item 9) on the shaft assembly and bearing cup (Item 3) in the housing are mating. Align the holes in the cap with the holes in the gaskets and housing. 3. Install capscrews and tighten. Groundsmaster® 300 Series 4.
Blade Spindle Service (Fig. 34, 35, 36, 37, 38) 3. Remove belt from spindle to be serviced. Removing Spindle and Bearings From Spindle Housing 1. Lower the cutting unit, shut the engine off and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove deck covers from top of cutting unit. Loosen idler pulley(s) to release belt tension. 4. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit. Turn the engine OFF and remove the key from the key switch. Block up the cutting unit so it cannot fall accidentally. 5.
6. Remove the lock nut and flat washer retaining the spindle pulley on the spindle shaft. Slide the pulley off of the shaft. 4 NOTE: All three spindle housing assemblies are different from one another. A spacer is located beneath the right--hand pulley (Fig. 35). 7. If the spindle shaft will be replaced, remove the blade bolt (left hand thread), belleville washer and blade from the spindle shaft. Otherwise, the blade may be left on the spindle shaft. 3 5 8.
Installing Spindle, Bearings and Seals Into Spindle Housing IMPORTANT: If a new spindle housing is being used, new bearings and the matched snap ring set must be installed; refer to step 1 below. Never use the old bearings, spacer and snap ring with a new spindle housing. By contrast, use only new bearings with cups and spacer -- not the large snap ring because it is not required -- when installing bearings into a used spindle housing that has the large snap ring installed; refer to step 2 below. 1.
Chapter 12 Triflex® 88″ Cutting Unit Table of Contents SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Grass Deflectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Mechanical Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Skid and Roller Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications ITEM SPECIFICATION __________________________________________________________________________________________ Cutting width Center section only With one wing disengaged 88 inches 54 inches 71 inches ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Height of cut range 1 to 4 inches ________________________________________________________________________________________________________
General Information Grass Deflectors WARNING The grass deflectors (Fig. 2) are safety de vices that divert grass and other foreign ob jects being discharged downward. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT THE DEFLECTORS BE IN THEIR NORMAL OPERATING POSITION WH ENEVER THE CUTTING UNIT IS ENGAGED.
Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Page 12 - 4 Groundsmaster® 300 Series
Adjustments Mechanical Door (Fig. 3) On each side of the deck center section is a mechanical door that opens and closes as the wing sections are lowered and raised. The doors open to provide overlap of the cutter blades when the wing units are down. The doors close to provide safety and protection when the wing units are raised. To adjust mechanical door, disconnect threaded rod from the door by removing cotter pin.
Height of Cut Adjustment (Fig. 6, 7, 8) The height of cut is adjustable from 1 to 4 inches in 1/2 inch increments, by adding or removing an equal number of spacers on the front and rear caster forks. The height of cut chart below gives the combinations of spacers to use for all height of cut settings.
IMPORTANT: All six “U” shaped spacers must be on rear square caster shafts – if one is left off, remaining spacers will not stay in position during operation. Always install spacers on caster shafts with the spacer opening facing forward or to the rear. Never install with the spacer facing the side or middle of the deck (the arrow on the spacer should be in the same direction as the pin).
Checking and Correcting Mismatch of Blades (Fig. 9, 10) If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be corrected by making sure the blades are straight and all blades are cutting on the same plane. 1. Put the deck into position on a flat 4 x 8 foot sheet of plywood that is at least 3/4 inch thick. IMPORTANT: If the rear caster wheel axle is in the lower hole, put a 3/4 inch block under each front caster wheel to level the deck.
Belt Tension Adjustment (Fig. 11, 12, 13) NOTE: Check that belts are in good condition and positioned correctly in the sheaves of the pulleys on the center section and wing sections of the deck. IMPORTANT: Check tension on new belts after 10 hours of use. Wing Section: NOTE: Block deck in raised position so that it cannot accidentally lower while belts are being adjusted. Wings should be in lowered position. Loosen two (2) capscrews securing spring bracket (nuts are located under the deck).
Center Section: NOTE: Spring tension is only 10 to 15 lbs. on the wing section, but is 80 to 90 lbs. on the center section, requiring the use of a threaded rod for adjustments. 1. Loosen nuts securing the spring bracket to the deck. Loosen the jam nut on the threaded rod. 2. Adjust the spring bracket so that the lip on the spring bracket just contacts the rubber stop on the idler arm. Use the threaded rod to make belt adjustments.
Wing Pulley Brake (Fig. 14) Raise wing to be adjusted, 15 degrees (use a magnetically mounted compass) and loosen brake pad capscrews with an Allen wrench. Push brake pad against pulley with one hand and tighten capscrews with the other hand. NOTE: Idler arm assembly is shimmed to center the brake pad (vertically) in the pulley groove. Add washers under the idler arm pivot hub as necessary. Figure 14 1. Brake pad capscrews (2) per wing 3. Allen wrench 2. Brake pad 4. 15° angle Wing Shaft End Play (Fig.
Wing Lift Cylinders (Fig. 16, 17) Slotted holes in the lift cylinder bracket allow for adjustment of the wing lift cylinders. With the cylinder fully extended manually pull the pivot pin outward. The pivot pin should rest up against the outer edge of the pivot hole on each wing section. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 65 ft-lb. Once the cylinder is in the correct position, adjust the wing vertical stop on the top of the deck.
Repairs Blade Service (Fig. 19, 20, 21) The blade must be replaced if a solid object is hit, the blade is out-of-balance, worn or bent. Always use genuine TORO replacement blades to ensure safety and optimum performance. Never use blades made by other manufacturers because they could be dangerous. CAUTION Do not try to straighten a blade that is bent, and never weld a broken or cracked blade. Always use a new TORO blade to assure continued safety certification of the product. 1 .
Inspecting and Sharpening Blade 1. Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to prevent it from falling accidentally. 2. Examine cutting ends of the blade carefully, especially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet. Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the blade, check the blade before using the machine.
Belt Replacement (Fig. 22, 23, 24, 25) Wing Sections: 1. Lower cutting unit to shop floor, turn off engine and remove key. Remove belt covers. NOTE: To remove center section belt, the wing section belts have to be removed first. 2. With the wing unit raised, loosen nuts on capscrews holding the spring bracket from under the deck. NOTE: Block deck in raised position so that it cannot accidentally lower while belts belt tension is being adjusted. Wings should be in lowered position. 3.
Center Section: NOTE: Wing belts must be removed first. 1. Loosen capscrew nuts holding the spring bracket to the deck. Loosen the threaded rod jam nut, then gradually loosen the tension nut to release the spring tension. CAUTION Loosen capscrew nuts holding the spring bracket to the deck before loosening threaded rod to avoid sudden movement of the spring bracket. 2. With belt tension released, remove idler arm and belt guides as necessary and remove the belt. 3.
Caster Arm Bushing Service (Fig. 26) The caster arms have bushings pressed into the top and bottom portion of the tube and after many hours of operation, the bushings will wear. To check the bushings, move caster fork back and forth and from side-toside. If caster spindle is loose inside the bushings, bushings are worn and must be replaced. 1. Raise cutting unit and block it so it cannot fall accidentally. 2. Remove lynch pin and spacers from top of caster spindle. 3.
Rear Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 27) The rear caster wheels rotate on high quality roller bearings which are supported by spanner bushings. Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal. However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a worn bearing. 1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel and (2) washers between caster fork. 2.
Front Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 28) The front caster wheels rotate on high-quality roller bearings which are supported by spanner bushings. Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal. However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a worn bearing. 1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel and (2) washers between caster fork. 2.
Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit (Fig. 29) 1. Position machine on level surface, lower cutting unit to the shop floor, shut engine off and engage parking brake. 2. Disconnect three (3) hydraulic lines at mounting bracket, located next to traction pedal, using quick disconnects. Immediately put attached rubber plugs in disconnects on both the traction unit and deck hoses. 3. Remove PTO shield from top of cutting unit and set shield aside. 4. Drive roll pin out of yoke and input shaft of gear case.
Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit (Fig. 30, 31, 32, 33) 1. Position machine on level surface and shut engine off. 2. Move cutting unit into position in front of traction unit. WARNING Since the right hand push arm is spring loaded to about 100 pounds and left hand push arm is spring-loaded to about 150 pounds, another person is needed to help push the push arm down. Sudden release of the push arm could cause injury. Figure 30 3.
IMPORTANT: The PTO shaft yokes must be exactly in line with each other when outer PTO is installed on splined shaft. Remove sleeve and change yoke position if alignment is not correct. Misalignment of the two yokes will shorten life of PTO shaft assem bly and cause unnecessary vibration when cutting unit is operated. 8. Line up holes in yoke and input shaft of gear case. Slide yoke onto shaft and secure parts together with roll pin, capscrews and nuts. 9.
Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service (Fig. 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40) Removing Push Arms, Torsion Springs and Bushings 1. Separate cutting unit from traction unit and roll cutting unit away from traction unit. 2. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while you put a 4" x 4" block of wood between the chassis and the top of the push arm, and across the full width of the machine. 3. Loosen the large jam nut on the left-hand ball joint at the end of the push arm.
7. Remove the cap screws locknuts, carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts holding the brake mount and pedal assembly in place. Lay the brake mount and the pedal assembly on the wheel. 8. Have a helper push down slightly on the left push arm while you remove the block of wood between the push arm and the chassis. Slowly and carefully allow the push arm to move upward until all spring load is released. 9.
Installing Push Arms, Torsion Springs and Bushings 1. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings. Using a hammer and flat plate, carefully drive the bushings into the push arm pivot tubes. The bushings must be flush with the end of the tube. 2. Inspect the torsion springs. If the springs are damaged, use new springs when assembling the parts. 3. Slide the torsion springs onto the inside of the push arm pivot tubes.
Gear Case Removal and Installation (Fig. 41, 42) Removing Gear Case and Drive Pulley 1. Lower the cutting unit, shut engine off and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove shroud (Item 20) covering universal drive shaft. Disconnect drive shaft from gear case. Remove belt covers from top of cutting unit. 4. Remove flange nuts and carriage bolts securing gear case mount plate (Item 22) to cutting unit and remove plate and gear case. 5. Remove the set screws (Item 28) from the taper lock bushing (Item 27).
Continue to hit taper lock and tighten set screws until 55 in-lb of torque will not turn the setscrews. Installing Gear Case and Drive Pulley 1. Install bracket (Item 18) on each side of gear case with capscrews and lockwashers. Tighten capscrews to a torque of 20 - 26 ft-lb. Install gear case and bracket assembly to mount plate (Item 22) with carriage bolts and flange nuts. 2. To install pulley (Item 26) and slide taper lock (Item 27), small end first, into pulley hub. 3.
Gear Case Repair (Fig. 43, 44) Figure 43 Gear Case Disassembly 6. Remove bearing cups (Item 14) from cap by putting a punch through the shaft bore and through the seal and then tapping against the back of the bearing cup until driven out of the cap. 1. Drain lubricant from gear case. 2. Remove capscrews and lift out shaft and cap assemblies. 3. Remove cap assemblies and bearing cones (Item 12) from shafts (Item 17, 19).
17 12 14 4, 5, 6 16 9 3 1 10 11 19 13 2 7 18 8 Figure 44 cap with the open side toward the machined side of the cap. Gear Case Pre-Assembly 1. Start with one of the shafts (Item 17) and put one of the gears (Item 10) over the shaft so the tooth side is towards the turned end of the shaft. Align the keyway in the gear with the keyway in the shaft and install one of the keys (Item 8) in the keyway. 2. Install one set of shims (Item 11) onto the turned end of the shaft.
Gear Case Final Assembly 1. Bearing drag is adjusted by the amount of gaskets (Item 4, 5, 6) used between the cap and housing machined surfaces. 2. Put two 0.015 in. gaskets on the machined surface of the housing, then install the shaft and cap assembly in the housing so the bearing cone (Item 9) on the shaft assembly and bearing cup (Item 3) in the housing are mating. Align the holes in the cap with the holes in the gaskets and housing. 3. Install capscrews and tighten. Repairs 4.
Blade Spindle Service (Fig. 45, 46, 47) Removing Spindle Housing Assembly 1. Lower the cutting unit, shut the engine off and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove deck covers from top of cutting unit. Release belt tension. Remove belt from spindle to be serviced. 3. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit. Turn the engine OFF and remove the key from the key switch. Block up the cutting unit so it cannot fall accidentally. 4. Using a rag or thickly padded glove, grasp end of blade.
Assembly and Installation of Spindle IMPORTANT: If a new spindle housing is being used, new bearings and matched snap ring set must be installed; see step 1 below. Never use old bearings, spacer, and snap ring with a new spindle housing. If installing bearings into a used spindle housing that still has a snap ring installed, use only new bearings with cups and spacer – not the large snap ring because it is not required; see step 2 below. 1. Install large snap ring into groove in bore of spindle housing.
Chapter 13 Guardian® 72″ Recycler® Cutting Unit Table of Contents SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Height of Cut Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Adjusting Skids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mismatch Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . REPAIRS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications ITEM SPECIFICATION __________________________________________________________________________________________ Cutting width 72 inches ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Height of cut range 2 to 5 inches ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Height of cut a
Troubleshooting Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 13 - 3 Troubleshooting
Adjustments Height of Cut Adjustment (Fig. 2, 3) The height of cut is adjustable from 2 to 5 inches in 1/2 inch increments, by adding or removing an equal number of spacers on the front and rear caster forks. The height of cut chart below gives the combinations of spacers to use for all height of cut settings. Height of Cut Spacers Below Caster Arms inches mm Front Rear 2 2-1/2 3 3-1/2 4 4-1/2 5 50 64 76 89 102 114 127 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 1.
Adjusting Skids (Fig. 4) 1. Adjust each skid by loosening the three (3) flange nuts and moving the skid to the desired position. Tighten the flange nuts to secure the skid in position. Figure 4 1. Skid Groundsmaster® 300 Series Page 13 - 5 2.
Checking and Correcting Mismatch of Blades (Fig. 5) If there is mismatch between the blades, the grass will appear streaked when it is cut. This problem can be corrected by making sure the blades are straight and all blades are cutting on the same plane. 1. Using a 3 foot long carpenters level, find a flat surface on the shop floor. 2. Adjust height of cut so all six height of cut spacers are below the caster arm. 3. Lower cutting unit onto flat surface. Remove covers from top of cutting unit.
Repairs Blade Service (Fig. 6, 7, 8) The blade must be replaced if a solid object is hit, or if the blade is out-of-balance, worn or bent. Always use genuine TORO replacement blades to ensure safety and optimum performance. Never use blades made by other manufacturers because they could be dangerous. CAUTION Do not try to straighten a blade that is bent, and never weld a broken or cracked blade. Always use a new TORO blade to assure continued safety certification of the product. 1 .
Inspecting and Sharpening Blade 1. Raise cutting unit to highest position, shut the engine off and engage parking brake. Block cutting unit to prevent it from falling accidentally. 2. Examine cutting ends of the blade carefully, especially where the flat and curved parts of the blade meet. Since sand and abrasive material can wear away the metal that connects the flat and curved parts of the blade, check the blade before using the machine.
Belt Replacement (Fig. 9, 10, 11) Signs of a worn belt are: squealing when belt is rotating, blades slipping when cutting grass, frayed belt edges, burn marks and cracks. Replace the belt if any of these conditions are evident. The blade drive belt is held under tension by a spring loaded idler. 1. Lower cutting unit to shop floor, stop the engine and engage the parking brake. Remove belt covers from top of cutting unit. 2. Disconnect spring from idler arm bracket to release belt tension.
Caster Arm Bushing Service (Fig. 12) The caster arms have bushings pressed into the top and bottom portion of the tube and after many hours of operation, the bushings will wear. To check the bushings, move caster fork back and forth and from side-toside. If caster spindle is loose inside the bushings, bushings are worn and must be replaced. 1. Raise cutting unit and block it so it cannot fall accidentally. 2. Remove lynch pin and spacers from top of caster spindle. 3.
Caster Wheel Bearing Service (Fig. 13) The rear caster wheels rotate on high quality roller bearings which are supported by spanner bushings. Even after many hours of use, provided that the bearing was kept well-lubricated, bearing wear will be minimal. However, failure to keep bearings lubricated will cause rapid wear. A wobbly caster wheel usually indicates a worn bearing. 1. Remove capscrew and locknut holding caster wheel between caster fork. 2. Pull spanner bushing out of wheel hub. 3.
Separating Cutting Unit From Traction Unit (Fig. 14, 15, 16) 1. Position machine on level surface, lower cutting unit to the shop floor, shut engine off and engage parking brake. 2. Remove self-tapping screws securing shield to top of cutting unit and set shield aside. 3. Drive roll pin out of yoke and input shaft of gear box. Also, loosen cap screws and lock nuts. Slide yoke off the input shaft.
Mounting Cutting Unit to Traction Unit (Fig. 14, 15, 16, 17) 1. Position machine on level surface and shut engine off. 2. Move cutting unit into position in front of traction unit. 8. Line up holes in yoke and input shaft of gear box. Slide yoke onto shaft and secure parts together with roll pin. Tighten (2) capscrews and locknuts securing yoke to input shaft. 9. Mount PTO shield over input shaft and onto gear box mounting plate with two self-tapping screws.
Push Arm and Torsion Spring Service (Fig. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24) Removing Push Arms, Torsion Springs and Bushings 1. Separate cutting unit from traction unit and roll cutting unit away from traction unit. 2. Have a helper push down on the left push arm while you put a 4" x 4" block of wood between the chassis and the top of the push arm, and across the full width of the machine. 3. Loosen the large jam nut on the left-hand ball joint at the end of the push arm.
7. Remove the cap screws, locknuts, carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts holding the brake mount and pedal assembly in place. Lay the brake mount and the pedal assembly on the wheel. 8. Have a helper push down slightly on the left push arm while you remove the block of wood between the push arm and the chassis. Slowly and carefully allow the push arm to move upward until all spring load is released. 9.
Installing Push Arms, Torsion Springs and Bushings 1. Apply grease to inside and outside of new bushings. Using a hammer and flat plate, carefully drive the bushings into the push arm pivot tubes. The bushings must be flush with the end of the tube. 2. Inspect the torsion springs. If the springs are damaged, use new springs when assembling the parts. 3. Slide the torsion springs onto the inside of the push arm pivot tubes.
Gearbox Removal and Installation (Fig. 25, 26) 4. Remove capscrews and nuts securing gear box plate (Item 10) to deck channels. Removing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 1. Lower cutting unit to shop floor, stop the engine and engage the parking brake. Remove belt covers from top of cutting unit. 2. Remove shroud (Item 9) covering universal drive shaft. Disconnect drive shaft from gearbox. 5. Remove the set screws (Item 19) from the taper lock bushing (Item 18).
Installing Gearbox and Drive Pulley 1. Install isolation mounts (Item 3) into brackets (Item 7, 13). Use water or lubricant to ease installation. Install mounts from bottom of bracket. 2. Install bracket on each side of gearbox with capscrews and lockwashers. Tighten capscrews to a torque of 20 - 26 ft-lb. 3. Install gearbox with brackets to gear box mount plate (Item 10). 4. To install pulley (Item 17), slide taper lock (Item 18), small end first, into pulley hub. 5.
Gear Box Repair (Fig. 27, 28) Figure 27 Gear Box Disassembly 6. Remove bearing cups (Item 14) from cap by putting a punch through the shaft bore and through the seal and then tapping against the back of the bearing cup until driven out of the cap. 1. Drain lubricant from gear box. 2. Remove capscrews and lift out shaft and cap assemblies. 3. Remove cap assemblies and bearing cones (Item 12) from shafts (Item 17, 19).
17 12 14 4, 5, 6 16 9 3 1 10 11 19 13 2 7 18 8 Figure 28 cap with the open side toward the machined side of the cap. Gear Box Pre-Assembly 1. Start with one of the shafts (Item 17) and put one of the gears (Item 10) over the shaft so the tooth side is towards the turned end of the shaft. Align the keyway in the gear with the keyway in the shaft and install one of the keys (Item 8) in the keyway. 2. Install one set of shims (Item 11) onto the turned end of the shaft.
Gear Box Final Assembly 1. Bearing drag is adjusted by the amount of gaskets (Item 4, 5, 6) used between the cap and housing machined surfaces. 2. Put two 0.015 in. gaskets on the machined surface of the housing, then install the shaft and cap assembly in the housing so the bearing cone (Item 9) on the shaft assembly and bearing cup (Item 3) in the housing are mating. Align the holes in the cap with the holes in the gaskets and housing. 3. Install capscrews and tighten. Groundsmaster® 300 Series 4.
Blade Spindle Service (Fig. 29, 30, 31) Removing Spindle Housing Assembly 1. Lower the cutting unit, shut the engine off and engage the parking brake. 2. Remove deck covers from top of cutting unit. Release belt tension. Remove belt from spindle to be serviced. 3. Start the engine and raise the cutting unit. Turn the engine OFF and remove the key from the key switch. Block up the cutting unit so it cannot fall accidentally. 4. Using a rag or thickly padded glove, grasp end of blade.
Installing Spindle, Bearings and Seals Into Spindle Housing IMPORTANT: If a new spindle housing is being used, new bearings and matched snap ring set must be installed; see step 1 below. Never use old bearings, spacer, and snap ring with a new spindle housing. If installing bearings into a used spindle housing that still has a snap ring installed, use only new bearings with cups and spacer – not the large snap ring because it is not required; see step 2 below. 1.
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