Instructions / Assembly

17
Building Fences
Rails are most
easily set with
galvanized metal*
fence brackets and
nails. They may
also be butted and
toenailed, lapped,
blocked or set
with a dado. In
each case, be sure
to use galvanized*
nails. Drill pilot
holes and stagger
the nails in your
rails to avoid
splitting along
grain lines. Attach
the fence boards
according to the
style you have
selected. Using a
tight line along the bottom edge will help
ensure vertical alignment. Leave a few inches
between the bottom of the fencing boards and
the ground, or
plan for the
installation of a
kickboard. A
spacer will make
quick work of
evenly spacing the
boards on a
picket-style fence. Kickboard can be added to
the bottom of the fence for added security and
to keep pests out and pets in. Use 1" x 4" or 1" x
6" material, as
shown, before
installing
siding boards.
6. Designing
Your Gate
Solid construc-
tion is the key
to a long
lasting gate. To
install a gate,
the first step comes
when you are setting
your face posts. Posts to
either side of the gate
should be absolutely
plumb and set at least
24” in concrete.
The gate itself is
framed with 2”x4”s and
assembled with wood
screws. Make it no
wider than 48”. Allow
1/2” clearance for the latch and hinges. Use a
carpenter’s
square to keep
the framing true.
A diagonal brace
can be marked
and cut to fit
inside the gate
frame. The top of
the brace goes on
the latch-side
corner and the
bottom on the
hinge side.
Apply gate hard-
ware and facing
boards to the
frame with
wood
screws.
When
apply-
ing the
siding
boards
to the
gate,
begin
on the
hinge
side and
cut the
last
board
flush.
Top Lap Butted
Variation of Top
Lap on Corners
Butted and
Toenailed
Butted with Nailer
Butted with
Fence Bracket
Side Lap
Incorrect Correct
Allow 1/4"
Hinge
Clearance
and 1/2"
Swing
Clearance
90
90
o
90
o
Cleat
Post
Rail
Kickboard
Siding
Rail
Kickboard
17
*See Pg. 4 for
recommended hardware.