Installation Guide
Table Of Contents
- Floor & Wall Tile Installation Guide
- Understanding Substrates and Surface Preparation
 - Determining the Tile Layout
 - The ultimate goal when determining a layout is to minimize the amount of cut tiles across the entire installation. This requires careful planning prior to mixing the mortar and setting the tiles.
 - Working with Mortar
 - Setting the Tile in Mortar
 - Making Tile Cuts
 - Applying Grout to the Joints
 
 
trowel at a 45-degree angle.  This removes excess adhesive resulting in a uniform, ridged setting bed. 
Do not spread more mortar on the substrate than you can set tile in within 15 minutes.  
Setting the Tile in Mortar 
Variation in shading is an inherent characteristic of tile. Mix the tiles from several cartons prior to 
setting to avoid dramatic shifts in color tone from one area to the next.  Begin installing tiles in the 
center of the room, one chalk line section at a time.  Finish each grid before moving on to the next.  
Place the first tile in the corner of the grid near the previous section and work outward. Do not slide 
tiles into place.  Insert tile spacers as each tile is set and leave them in place until the mortar has 
cured.  Place perimeter tiles last and leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and wall.  Long linear tiles 
should never be set in a grid or running bond pattern. There should be no more than a 33% overlap 
between adjacent pieces.  The grout joint should be expanded larger than a typical 1/8”. If the field 
tile exceeds 15” in length in any dimension, spread a thin layer of mortar directly onto the back using 
the flat edge of the trowel prior to pressing into the mortar bed. This technique is called “back 
buttering” the tile and it ensures a complete bond. When the tiles in each chalk line grid are set, tap 
them down to ensure a proper bond and level plane. Remove excess mortar from open grout joints 
with a putty knife.  Do not grout or walk on the tile until the mortar has completely cured (usually after 
24 hours).  
Making Tile Cuts 
Carefully measure tiles to be cut and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen.  Make straight or diagonal 
cuts with a tile score and cut tool or a wet saw. Make curved cuts with a tile nipper by chipping 
away small pieces at a time. Full-length curved cuts should be made with a rod saw.  Smooth all 
sharp edges by hand using a silicon-carbide stone.  
Applying Grout to the Joints 
Once the mortar has cured, carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the grout 
packaging.  Mix just enough to fill the joints in an area that can be completed in less than 30 minutes.  
Remove all tile spacers and spread the grout across the tile surface. Apply pressure down into the 
joints with a silicon grout float tilted at a 45-degree angle.  Remove excess grout from the tile surface 
immediately by tilting the grout float about 90-degrees and scraping it diagonally across the tile.  
Wait 20 minutes for the grout to begin to set then use a damp sponge to clean the excess from the 
surface and smooth the grout joints.  Rinse the sponge often and change water in the bucket as it 
begins to turn cloudy. Let the grout dry until a haze forms on tile surface, then polish the tile with a 
soft damp cloth.  Rinse again with a sponge and clean water.  The grout should be completely cured 
within 24 hours of finishing the last step. Do not apply sealers to the tile or grout for at least two 
weeks, and only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. 


