User’s Guide KEEPING THE WORLD SEWING™
This houshold sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594 IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: • • A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.
Table of Contents Overview ........................................................2 Extension Table.............................................3 Free-arm sewing ............................................3 Standard Accessories and Storage ..............4 Getting ready to sew 5-20 Connecting the Power Supply .....................5 Adjusting the Sewing Speed ........................6 Needle up/down ...........................................6 Sewing Guide Reference Chart ...................
7 Overview 6 8 5 4 2 3 1 9 10 11 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 23 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 22 13. 21 16 17 18 19 20 26 27 25 24 28 12 13 14 15 29 30 37 36 35 34 31 32 33 31.a 2 33.a Bobbin stop Bobbin spindle Hole for extra spool pin Spool holder Spool pin Thread guide for bobbin winding Thread take-up lever Presser foot pressure dial Face plate Thread cutter Needle threader Needle plate Extension table (Accessory storage) 14. Bobbin cover plate 15. Bobbin cover plate release button 16.
Extension Table To remove Hook your Àngers on the bottom left of the extension table and pull it to the left. Free-arm sewing For stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs or any other tubular garments. For darning socks or mending knees or elbows. To attach 1 2 Slide the extension table on and insert the pins into the holes and push the extension table to snap it in place.
1 2 4 3 5 6 7 9 10 11 8 Standard Accessories and Storage 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 12 15 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23.
Getting ready to sew For Emerald 118 and 122 1 6 5 Connecting the Power Supply Turn the power switch off. 3 Insert the foot control plug into the machine socket. 4 2 For Emerald 116 1 6 5 Insert the power supply plug into the machine and the wall outlet. Turn the power switch on. 1 Power switch 2 Foot control plug 3 Machine plug 4 Machine socket 5 Power supply plug 6 Wall outlet Before connecting to the power supply, make sure the voltage shown on the machine conforms to your electrical power.
Adjusting the Sewing Speed You can control the sewing speed in two ways; with the speed control slide or with the foot control. Speed control slide (model 118 and 122) With the speed control slide, you can change the sewing speed to suit your needs. The slide limits how fast you can sew. To increase the sewing speed, slide the bar to the right. To reduce the sewing speed, slide the bar to the left. Foot control For model 118 and 122 You can control the sewing speed by using the foot control.
Sewing Guide Reference Chart 1 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 4 5 Fabric Presser foot pressure Sewing technique Stitch Presser foot Thread tension Stitch length Stitch width 2 6 7 8 Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for the fast easy way to select the best stitch, stitch length, stitch width, thread tension, presser foot and presser foot pressure for your sewing technique and fabric. Look in the column for your fabric type: WOVEN FABRICS: for stable fabrics that have no stretch. Usually woven.
Reverse Lever 1 1 When you press the reverse lever downwards, the machine will sew in reverse. The machine will only sew in reverse as long as the reverse lever is pressed down. 1 Reverse lever Presser Foot Pressure Dial Turn the pressure dial to adjust the pressure of the presser foot on the fabric when sewing on different thicknesses of fabric. The pressure dial should be set at 3 for regular sewing. Reduce the pressure to 2 for appliqué, cutwork and basting.
Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot 3 3 2 2 1 1 The presser foot is raised and lowered with the presser foot lever. The presser foot must be down when sewing. By raising the presser foot lever as far as it goes the lift height of the presser foot can be increased by 1/4” (0.6 cm). This is useful for easy removal of the presser foot or when placing heavy fabrics under the foot.
1 Changing the Needle 2 a c c b Turn off the power switch. Your machine uses standard sewing machine needles. 1 Lower the presser foot. Loosen the screw in the needle clamp by turning it counterclockwise. Remove the needle. 2 Push up the new needle as far as it will go with the Áat side away from you. Tighten the screw Àrmly by turning it clockwise. a Stop b Flat side c Needle clamp screw To check for a good needle: Put the Áat side of the needle onto something Áat (needle plate, glass etc.).
Placing the thread spool on the spool pin Place the thread spool on the spool pin with the thread coming off as illustrated. With large thread spools, the large holder is placed in front of the thread. If you use narrow thread spools, the small holder is placed in front of the thread. 1 1 Large spool holder 2 Small spool holder 2 Removing the bobbin 1 a Turn off the power switch. 1 Push the bobbin cover release button to the right and remove the cover.
3 1 b a c 2 Bobbin Winding 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 Pull the handwheel out to put the machine in bobbin wind position (the needle will not go up and down). Guide the thread around the bobbin thread tension guide into the tension disk. Thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to the outside. Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle with the free end of the thread coming out at the top. Slide the bobbin winder spindle to the right.
Placing the bobbin 1 Turn off the power switch 2 1 Place the bobbin in the bobbin case with the thread pulling off as illustrated. 2 Guide the thread into the front notch (a) on the front side of the bobbin case. Draw the thread to the left, sliding it between the tension spring blades. 3 Continue to draw the thread lightly until the thread slips into the side notch (b). 4 Pull out about 10 cm (4”) of thread. Attach the bobbin cover.
1 Threading the Machine 3 Turn off the power switch Make sure the presser foot is raised and the needle is in the up position. 1 Bring the thread from the spool and pass it through the thread guide. Then draw it down along the right slot. 2 Guide the thread around the bottom of the thread guide plate. 3 Firmly draw the thread from right to left over the take-up lever and down into the take-up lever eye. 4 Slide the thread from the left behind the needle bar thread guide.
Needle threader 1 Turn off the power switch 1 Raise the needle to its highest position. Lower the needle threader as far as it will go. The hook comes through the needle eye from behind. 2 Bring the thread from the left around the guide and under the hook. a Guide b Hook 3 Release the knob slowly while holding the thread end with your hand. A loop of the thread is pulled through the needle eye. 4 Pull the loop of thread behind the needle eye.
Bringing up the Bobbin Thread 1 Turn off the power switch. 2 b 1 Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand. 2 Turn the handwheel slowly toward you one complete turn. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle thread as illustrated. a a Needle thread b Bobbin thread 3 16 3 Pull 10 cm (4”) of both threads back and under the presser foot.
Stitches Stretch stitches Emerald 116 Stretch stitches Emerald 118 Stretch stitches Emerald 122 17
Stitch selection 2 Raise the needle to its highest position. Turn the stitch selection dial to set the desired stitch pattern number at the setting mark. 1 1 Stitch selection dial 2 Setting mark NOTE: Always raise the needle above the fabric and presser foot before you turn the stitch selction dial. 2 Stitch Length Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitch length number at the setting mark. The higher the number, the longer the stitch.
Adjusting stretch stitch balance If the stretch stitches are unbalanced when you sew on a particular fabric, balance them by turning the stitch length dial, within the stretch range. To adjust the distorted stitches: If the stitches are spread out (a), correct them by turning the dial in the “–” direction. If the stitches are close together (b), correct them by turning the dial in the “+” direction.
1 4 Balancing Needle Thread Tension The thread tension may be adjusted depending on the sewing materials, layers of fabric and sewing method. 3 Balanced tension: 2 The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers of fabric, as illustrated. For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show on the right side (top side) of the fabric, and the needle thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.
Basic sewing Straight Stitch Sewing Machine setting Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for the settings recommended. Starting to sew Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam guide line on the needle plate. Lower the needle to the point where you want to start. Lower the presser foot and pull the threads toward the back. Press the foot control. Gently guide the fabric along the seam guide line letting the machine feed the fabric.
1 2 3 22 Finishing sewing 1 Press the reverse lever and sew several stitches in reverse at the end of the seam, to lock the stitch. 2 Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing the threads to the back. 3 Draw the threads up and into the thread cutter. The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam.
Seam Guides on the Needle Plate The seam guides on the needle plate help you measure seam allowance. The numbers indicate the distance between the center needle position and the seam guide. 1 Seam guides 1 Number 15 20 4/8 5/8 6/8 Spacing (cm) 1.5 2.0 1.3 1.6 1.9 Pivoting Seam along the 5/8” guide. Stop stitching and lower the needle when the fabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering guides as shown. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to line up to the edge with the 1.
Utility Stitches Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for the fast easy way to select the best stitch, stitch length, stitch width, thread tension, presser foot and presser foot pressure for your sewing technique and fabric. Basic Zigzag Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting, sewing on buttons etc. Three-step Zigzag When using the Edging Foot J for three-step zigzag, make sure the needle does not hit the pin in the needle hole.
1 Reinforced Straight Stitch 2 3 4 Machine setting 1 Stitch pattern: 1 2 Stitch width: 0 or 5 3 Stitch length: stretch 4 Thread tension: 2 – 5 5 Presser foot: Utility foot A 5 This stitch is stronger than regular straight stitch, due to the fact that it is a triple and elastic stitch. The reinforced straight stitch can be used for heavy stretch fabrics, for crotch seams which are subject to considerable strain and for topstitching in heavy fabrics.
1 Automatic Buttonhole 2 3 4 5 1 Machine setting 1 Stitch pattern: 2 Stitch width: 4 – 5 3 Stitch length: 4 Thread tension: 3–5 5 Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R NOTES: The size of buttonhole is automatically set by placing the button in the automatic buttonhole foot R. The button holder of the foot takes a button size up to 2.5 cm (1”) in diameter. Make a test buttonhole on a fabric sample duplicating the interfacing and seams of the actual garment. Use stabilizer under all fabric.
3 3 Pull the buttonhole lever down as far as it will go. a Buttonhole lever a 4 4 d Raise the foot and put the needle thread through the hole and under the foot. Draw both threads to the left. Insert the fabric under the foot and lower the needle at the starting point. Lower the foot. b c d e b e Needle thread Bobbin thread Hole Starting point NOTE: Make sure there is no gap between the slider and front stop. If there is a gap, the length of the right and left rows of the buttonhole will differ.
5 6 5 Sew slowly. The machine will stitch the complete buttonhole. Stop the machine at the starting point when the buttonhole is completed. The machine sews the front bartack and left column Àrst, then the back bartack and right column. 6 Raise the foot and remove the fabric.Cut both needle and bobbin threads leaving about 10 cm (4”) of thread ends loose. Draw the needle thread to wrong side of the fabric by pulling the bobbin thread. Then, knot the threads.
7 7 When Ànished, push the buttonhole lever up as far as it will go. Adjusting the buttonhole stitch density Turn the stitch length dial within to adjust the the range of buttonhole stitch density. 1 NOTE: If the button is extremely thick, make a test buttonhole. If it is difÀcult to Àt the button through the test buttonhole, lengthen the size by pulling back the button holder which will increase the buttonhole length.
1 Corded Buttonhole 2 3 4 5 Machine setting: 1 Stitch pattern: 2 Stitch width: 4 – 5 3 Stitch length: 4 Thread tension: 3 – 5 5 Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot R 1 1 a Spur a 2 2 d c 30 Draw both needle and bobbin thread to the left. Lower the needle into the fabric where the buttonhole will start and lower the foot. Press the foot control gently and sew the buttonhole over the cord. The sewing sequence is the same as the automatic buttonhole.
Manual Buttonhole 1 Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for recommended settings. If the diameter of the button is more than 2.5 cm (1”), make the buttonhole manually as follows: 1 Snap on buttonhole foot C. 2 2 a b Pull the buttonhole lever down as far as it will go. Draw both needle and bobbin thread to the left. Lower the needle into the fabric where the buttonhole is to start, and lower the foot.
4 4 Sew the front bartack and left column to the desired length then stop sewing. 5 Pull the buttonhole lever toward you. 6 Sew the back bartack and right column and then stop sewing at the starting point. 7 When Ànished, push the buttonhole lever up as far as it will go.
1 Sewing Zipper 2 Machine setting 1 Stitch pattern: 1 2 Stitch width: 5 3 Stitch length: 1.5 – 4 4 Thread tension: 3 – 6 5 Presser foot: Zipper foot E 3 4 5 To Snap On the Zipper Foot Snap on the zipper foot. 1 Groove 2 Pin To sew the left side of the zipper, snap on zipper foot on the right bar on the side. 2 1 To sew the right side of zipper, snap on the zipper foot on the left bar on the side.
2 n 2 l m k j k l m n j a 1 1 Snap on the zipper foot with the bar on the right side. Turn under the right seam allowance to form a 0.4 cm (1/8”) fold. a Lower layer b End of opening c Zipper teeth d 0.4 cm margin e Wrong side of the fabric f Opening size g Fold h Basting stitch line 2 Place zipper teeth next to the fold and pin in place. Align the zipper foot with the fold. Return thread tension and stitch length to original settings.
3 3 Sew through all layers next to the fold. Stop just before the zipper foot reaches the slider on the zipper tape. Lower the needle slightly into the fabric. Raise the zipper foot and open the zipper. Lower the foot and stitch the remainder of the seam. i Slider j 5 cm (2”) 4 Close the zipper and spread the fabric Áat with the right side facing up. Baste the opened fabric and zipper tape together.
5 5 n Remove the zipper foot and snap on with pin on left side. Guide the edge of the foot along the zipper teeth and stitch through the fabric and zipper tape, about 1 cm (3/8”) distance from the basting line. Stop about 5 cm (2’’) from the top of the zipper. m Remove the basting stitches n 1 cm (3/8”) m 6 6 36 Unzip a few centimeters/inches to clear a path for the stitch. At end of seam, sew a few stitches in reverse to lock.
1 Blind Hem b a b a c Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for recommended settings. 1 d 2 Fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated for Àne or medium fabrics. Fold a hem with the wrong side up forming a 0.5 cm (1/8”) allowance. a b c d 3 2 Snap on the adjustable blind hem foot. Place hem under the presser foot. When the needle comes to the left side, position the fabric so that the folded edge comes to the left side of the guide. Lower the presser foot.
Non-stick Glide Foot H Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for recommended settings. When sewing foam, plastic, plastic coated fabrics, leather and imitation leathers, the Non-stick Glide Foot H feeds over the fabric without sticking. Use it for general sewing and buttonholes on plastic and leather type fabrics. Snap on the Non-stick Glide Foot H. Select desired stitch and sew. Quilting Guide 1 3 2 The quilting guide will help keep stitching lines straight.
Gathering Foot Gather fabric or gather and attach a rufÁe in one step. Suitable for light to medium weight fabrics. Straight stitch, (left needle position), length 4. The longer the length, the more fabric will gather. Snap on Gathering Foot. For gathered fabric: Place fabric under Gathering Foot and sew. Increase upper tension for tighter gathers. To gather and attach gathered fabric in one step: Place fabric to be gathered under the presser foot right side up.
Care and maintenance 1 Turn off the power switch. a 2 Do not dismantle the machine other than as explained in this section. Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and mild soap. Cleaning the Hook Assembly area and Feed Teeth 1 Remove the presser foot and needle. Remove screw on the left side of the needle plate with the screwdriver supplied with the machine. Remove the needle plate and take out the bobbin. a Screw 2 Lift up the bobbin case and remove it. 3 Brush out dust and lint.
Replacing the Bobbin Case 1 Turn off the power switch. 1 Insert the bobbin case into the hook assembly area. 2 Make sure the knob of the bobbin case Àts next to the stopper in the assembly area. 2 a Knob b Stopper b 3 a 3 c Insert the bobbin. Replace the needle plate, inserting the two needle plate guide pins into the holes in the needle plate. Replace the screw. c Guide holes d Screw d c Replacing the Light Bulb Turn off the power switch.
Troubleshooting Condition 42 Cause Reference The needle 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. thread breaks. 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. 3. The needle is bent. 4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. 5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not placed under the presser foot at start of sewing. 6. The threads were not drawn to the rear after sewing. Page 14 Page 20 Page 10 Page 10 Page 21 The bobbin 1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the thread breaks.
We reserve the right to change the machine equipment and the assortment of accessories without prior notice, or make modiÀcations to the performance or design. Such modiÀcations, however, will always be to the beneÀt of the user and the product. Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/electronic products.
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