user manual

TR008 / 050207.2 DURANGO™ / Page 9
CHIMNEY CONNECTIONS continued …
Continued on next page
professional. DO NOT USE a chimney that is unlined
or damaged!) If you have any question regarding
the condition of the chimney, consult a qualified
licensed contractor, qualified engineer, competent
mason, certified Chimney Sweep, or a knowledg-
able inspector. Consult your insurance company if
you cannot find a qualified expert.
CAUTION: Not all fireplaces are suitable
for conversion to a wood stove. Check
with a qualified expert.
Many prefabricated fireplaces are of the
“zero-clearance fireplace” category. These consist
of multilayered metal construction. They are de-
signed with enough insulation and/or air cooling
on the base, back and sides so they can be safely
installed in direct contact with combustible floors
and walls. Although many prefabricated fireplaces
carry endorsements from nationally recognized
organizations for use as fireplaces, they have not
been tested for connection to wood stove heaters.
Connecting a stove to such a device will void the
manufacturer’s warranty.
Steel-lined fireplaces are constructed with
1/4” firebox liner, an air chamber in connection
with 8” of masonry. These can be safely used with
wood burning stoves. They contain all the essential
components of a fireplace, firebox, damper, throat,
smoke shelf, and smoke chamber. Many look iden-
tical to masonry fireplaces and should be checked
carefully before connecting a stove to them.
Venting a stove directly into a fireplace does
1. An entry hole must be cut through the masonry
and tile liner with minimal damage to the liner.
At least 8” of liner must remain below the entry
position. When locating the stove and stove-
pipe, all minimum clearances must be observed
from combustible surfaces including mantels,
combustible trimwork, ceilings and walls.
Positioning the center of the stove pipe entry
into the chimney 24” below the ceiling should
insure proper clearance for a 6” stovepipe.
2. Install a metal or fire clay (5/8” minimum thick-
ness) thimble. Make sure the thimble is flush
with the inner surface of the chimney liner and
does not protrude into the flue (see figure 7 on
page 6).
3. Secure the thimble with refractory mortar. The
thimble should be surrounded by 8” of solid
unit masonry brickwork or 24” of stone.
4. Install the stovepipe into the thimble as far as
possible without extending past the flue lining
(see figures 7 & 8 on pages 6 & 7).
5. A small airspace (about 1/2”) should remain
between the stovepipe and thimble to allow for
expansion of the pipe. Seal this airspace with
high-temperature caulking or ceramic wool.
6. Secure and seal the damper in the closed posi-
tion using high-temp caulking, ceramic wool,
or furnace cement. Also check to see if the
chimney has a cleanout. If it does, make sure it
is closed and sealed as well. A leaky cleanout
will greatly reduce draft efficiency.
Fig. 12 - Fireplace Conversion
not meet code and should not be at-
tempted. (This constitutes connection
to another appliance - the fireplace.)
Combustion products will be depos-
ited and build up in the firebox or
fireplace. The stove warranty will be
void with such an installation. Do
not create a hazard in your home by
connecting in this manner.
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
Directly connecting the stovepipe
into the existing masonry chimney
(figure 12 “Type A” fireplace con-
version) of the fireplace is the only
approved method of installation. This
is a complicated and involved process
and to insure safety should only by
done by a qualified installer.