Instructions / Assembly

5. We recommend before going any further you use a string and weight
to determine your static water level. With the weight attached to the
string, drop the weight down inside the casing. A splash will be heard
when the weight reaches the water level. Then, mark the string at the
top of the casing, remove it from the well and measure the length from
the weight to the mark on the string. This length will give you the
static water level. (Static water level is the distance from ground level
to the water level in your well). This water level should remain
constant now as you go deeper.
Note: This water level is also important in sizing your pump.
6. The object is now to flush the sand and water up through the 2” casing.
Starting with a piece of ¾” pipe, serrate one end as you did on the 2”
casing and glue a ¾” female adapter to the other end. Attach male and
female adapters to additional pipe as needed to reach the bottom of 2”
pipe. Unscrew the 2” reducer bushing from the DIY Install Kit, exposing
the ¾” male threaded nipple. Thread this nipple to the female adapter on
the ¾” pipe. Having lowered the ¾” pipe inside the 2” casing, attach
water supply to the ¾” pipe, turn on the water. Water and sand will now
flow up the inside of the 2” casing. You will need to turn the 2” casing
with a pipe wrench and push down causing the serrated end to auger the
sand. As the water and sand pass upward through the 2” casing, the pipe
will pipe continue to move downward.
NOTE: Allowing the ¾” pipe to extend farther than the 6” past the 2”
casing may cause water and sand to stop washing up inside the casing.
When this happens, you will need to pull back the ¾” pipe a few inches
and force the 2” casing down further.
7. You will continue to auger the 2” casing down, adding an additional 5’
section using the 2” flush inside couplings. Continue washing out the
center. This step may need to be repeated to attain “Adequate Depth.”
“Adequate Depth” is enough standing water inside the 2” casing to cover
the full length of the screen plus an additional 18 to 24 inches. Example:
if using a 4’ well point, you need 48 inches of water plus an additional 18
to 24 inches extra for a total depth of 66 to 72 inches of standing water.
This standing water level can be measured by removing ¾” pipe and again
using the string with a weight. Extremely dry seasons and/or heavy usage
may cause fluctuations in the water table. By continuing as far as
possible past “Adequate Depth” (even as deep and 30’ – 35’), it is possible