Installation Guide

Items you may need
Tools Materials
Power saw String
Hammer Grade stakes
Level Concrete and gravel
Posthole digger Fence panels or pickets
Power drill Fence posts
Tape measure 2x4s for bracing posts
Carpenter’s pencil Nails or screws*
Digging postholes
A general rule of thumb is to place 1/3 of the length of the post
in the ground. Local municipalities may require postholes to be
a specific depth. Please verify code compliance prior to instal-
lation. The fence will be stronger if end, corner and gate posts
are set at least 6" deeper. Using a posthole digger or power
auger, dig the holes 10" to 12" wide and 6" deeper than needed.
Backfill the hole with 6" of gravel to drain water away from the
bottom of the post (Fig. 2). Keep the height of your fence
panels in mind when digging your postholes.
Setting posts
Install end and corner posts first. Tie a string between the posts
along the fence line. This establishes a reference, ensuring the
posts are in line (Fig. 3). Brace the posts using 2x4s nailed to
both the posts and stakes in the ground. This will keep them
straight while the concrete sets. Check for plumb (90º angle)
on two adjacent sides prior to pouring concrete. Fill holes with
ready-mix concrete following the package instructions. Tamp
the concrete to remove any air pockets. Overfill the holes at the
top and slope the concrete away from the post to keep water
from collecting around it. Recheck plumb and alignment of all
posts and allow concrete to cure for 24 to 48 hours.
Cutting the posts to the proper height
An easy method to ensure your post tops are level is to run
a string from corner post to corner post at the desired height,
keeping the string taut (Fig. 3). Mark each post at the string line
and cut off the tops of the posts. Finish off your posts with one
of our decorative finial tops.
Step Method
Parallel Method
Fig. 1
Concrete
6" Gravel
10" - 12"
Fig. 2
Preparation
Check with local ordinances and regulations before building
fences in your area. Before construction, contact your local
utility companies to mark any underground cables and pipe-
lines. In addition, it’s a good idea to discuss plans with any
neighbors along your proposed fence line.
Design and layout
• Determine the number of posts, panels and gates needed
to complete the job, based on total linear footage. Take into
consideration post, panel and gate width when determining
the total number of each.
• Adjust layout to accommodate as many full panels as
possible. If you must use part of a panel, place in farthest
rear corner of the property. Some types of pre-assembled
panels can be trimmed to fit odd-sized layouts, but other
types are difficult or impossible to cut to size.
• Locate property boundaries and drive stakes into the ground
at corners and ends of fence line, 6" inside property boundary.
• Stretch twine or heavy string between stakes and pull tight to
mark layout of fence line.
• Be sure to measure your fence panels and gates prior
to locating the postholes. Also take into consideration
your chosen method of attaching the backer rails to posts
(see Connecting backer rails to posts section). Locate post
placement in the following order along string line:
a) End/corner posts
b) Gate posts
c) Line posts
Installing fences on sloped landscapes
Fences are installed on slopes using one of two methods (Fig.
1). Preassembled panels can only be installed using the step
method. The fence gradually steps up the slope with the rails
level, rather than parallel to the slope.
With loose components, you have the option to use the parallel
method. The rails are installed based on the degree of the slope.
Because this method requires that the fence be constructed
to conform to the slope, it cannot be accomplished using pre-
assembled fence panels.
Planning and Installing Your Fence
WOOD FENCING
10783_9/19
Fig.3
* Use hot-dip galvanized fasteners or other fasteners as
required by building codes.