Installation manual
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many
Owners
rely on
their
boatyards
to
prepare their craft,
including engines
and
generators, for lay-up during
the
off-season or
for
long periods of inactivity. Others prefer
to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which
follow
will allow
you
to
perform your
own
lay-up
and
recommissioning,
or
you
may
use
them
as
a
check list if others
do
the procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a lay-up and
also
help familiarize
you
with
the
maintenance
needs
of
your
engine.
If
you
have
any
questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your
local
servicing
dealer;
he will be more than willing
to
provide
assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should
always
be opened
up
and
the
bolts
removed when
the
boat
is
hauled
out of
the
water or
moved
from land
to
water,
and
during
storage in the cradle.
The
flexibility of the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft or coupling
or
both, while
the boat
is
taken out
or
put in the
water.
In some cases, the
shaft
has
actually been bent
by
these strains. This
does
not
apply
to
small boats
that
are hauled out of the water when
not in
use,
unless
they
have been
dry
for a considerable
period of
time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
A 50-50 solution of antifteeze and distilled water
is
recommended for use in the coolant system at
all
times.
This solution
may
require a higher concentration of
antifreeze, depending
on
the area's winter climate. Check the
solution
to
make sure
the
antifreeze protection
is
adequate.
Should
more
antifreeze
be
needed, drain
an
appropriate
amount
from
the engine block and
add
a
more
concentrated
mixture.
Operate
the
engine
to
ensure a complete circulation
and
mixture
of the antifreeze concentration throughout the
cooling
system.
Now
recheck
the
antifreeze solution's
strength.
Lubrication
System
With the engine warm, drain
all
the engine oil
from
the oil
sump. Remove
and
replace the oil filter and
fill
the sump
with
new
oil.
Use the correct grade
of
oil.
Refer
to
the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages in this manual for the
oil changing procedure. Run the engine
and
check for proper
oil pressure and make sure there
are
no
leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Lubricating
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top
off your
fuel
tanks with unleaded gasoline
of
89 octane
or
higher.
A fuel conditioner such
as
Sta-Bil gasoline
stabilizer should be
added.
Change the element in your
gasoline/water separator
and
clean the metal bowl. Re-install
and
make
certain there
are
no
leaks. Clean
up
any spilled
fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top
off your
fuel
tanks with
No.
2D
diesel
fuel.
Fuel
additives should be added prior
to
topping off
to
ensure
they
mix with the
fuel
being added and
fuel
still in the tank.
Additives such
as
Bio-bor and Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
should be added at this time
to
control bacteria growth and
condition the
fuel..
Care should be taken that the additives
used
are
compatible with the primary fuel filter/water
separator used
in
the system. Change the element in your
primary fuel filter/water separator and clean
the
separator
sediment bowl.
Change
the
fuel
filter elements on the engine and bleed the
fuel system,
as
needed. Start
the
engine and allow it
to
run
for 5 -
10
minutes
to
make sure
no
air
is left in the fuel
system. Check for
any
leaks that may have been created in
the fuel system during this servicing, correcting them
as
needed. Operating the engine for
5ยท
-
10
minutes will help
allow movement
of
the
treated fuel through the injection
equipment on the engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close the through-hull seacock. Remove the raw water intake
hose
from
the
seacock. Place the end of this hose into a
five
gallon bucket of clean fresh
water.
Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found in the primary heat exchanger on
the engine and clean
or
replace it
as
required, and also clean
any
zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where the
zinc
anode
is
located.
Clean
the
raw
water
strainer.
Start the engine and allow the
raw
water pump
to
draw
the
fresh water through the system. When
the
bucket is
empty,
stop
the engine and refill the bucket with
an
antifreeze
solution slightly stronger than needed for winter freeze
protection
in
your
area.
Start
the
engine and allow
all
of this mixture
to
be drawn
through the
raw
water system. Once the bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine. This antifreeze mixture should protect the
raw
water circuit from freezing during the winter lay-up,
as
well
as
providing
corrosion
protection.
Remove the impeller from your
raw
water
pump
(some
antifreeze mixture will accompany
it,
so
catch
it
in a bucket).
Examine the impeller. Acquire a replacement, if needed,
and
a cover gasket. Do not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until recommissioning, but replace the cover
and
gasket.
-...v-
WESTERBEICE
Engines & Generators
46