Installation manual
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many
owners rely
on
their boatyards
to
prepare their craft,
including engines and generators,
for
lay-up during
the
off-season
or
for long periods of inactivity. Others prefer
to accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which follow
will
allow
you
to
perform your
own
lay-up and recommissioning,
or
you
may
use
them
as
a
check list if others do
the
procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a lay-up
and
also
help familiarize you with
the
maintenance needs of your engine.
If you have
any
questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will
be
more than willing to
provide assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed
when
the boat
is
hauled
out
of
the.
water or moved from land
to
water,
and
during
storage in the cradle. The flexibility of the boat often puts a
severe strain
on
the propeller shaft
or
coupling or
both,
while
the boat
is
taken out
or
put in the
water.
In
some cases,
the
shaft
has
actually been bent
by
these strains. This
does
not
apply
to
small boats that
are
hauled out of
the
water
when
not in
use,
unless they have been
dry
for
a considerable
period of time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
[Propulsion
Engine]
A 50-50 solution of antifreeze and distilled water
is
recommended
for
use in
the
coolant system
at
all
times.
This
solution may require a higher concentration of
antifreeze,
depending
on
the area's winter climate. Check
the
solution to
make
sure
the
antifreeze protection
is
adequate.
Should
more
antifreeze
be
needed,
drain
an
appropriate
amount
from
the
engine block
and
add
a
more
concentrated
mixture.
Operate
the
engine
to
ensure
a
complete
circulation
and
mixture
of
the
antifreeze
concentration
throughout
the
cooling
system.
Now
recheck
the
antifreeze
solution's
strength.
Lubrication
System
With
the
engine
warm,
drain
all
the
engine oil
from
the oil
sump.
Remove and replace the oil
filter
and
fill
the
sump
with
new
oil.
Use
the correct grade of
oil.
Refer
to
the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages in this manual
for
the
oil changing procedure.
Run
the engine
and
check for proper
oil pressure and
make
sure
there
are
no
leaks.
A
CAUTION:
00
not
leave
the
enginets
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Lubricating
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
~nginets
internal
parts.
.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top
off your
fuel
tanks
with
unleaded gasoline of
89
octane
or
higher.
A
fuel
conditioner such
as
Sta-Bil gasoline
stabilizer should
be
added.
Change
the
element in your
gasoline/water separator
and
clean the metal
bowL
Re-install
and
make certain there are
no
leaks.
Clean
up
any
spilled
fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top
off your
fuel
tanks with No.2
diesel
fueL
Fuel
additives
such
as
BioBor
and
Sta-Bil should be
added
at this time to
control
algae
and condition
the
fueL
Care should be
taken
that
the
additives
used
are
compatible
with
the primary
fuel
filter/water separator used
in
the system.
Change
the element
in your primary
fuel
filter/water separator, if the
fuel
system
has
one,
and
clean the separator sediment
bowL
Change
the
fuel
filter elements
on
the
engine
and
bleed
the
fuel
system,
as
needed. Start the engine
and
allow
it
to
run
for
5 -
10
minutes
to
make
sure no air
is
left
in
the
fuel
system.
Check for any leaks that may have been created
in
the
fuel
system
during this servicing, correcting
them
as
needed.
Operating the engine for 5
10
minutes
will
help
allow movement
of
the
treated fuel through the injection
equipment
on
the
engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close
the
through-hull seacock. Remove
the
raw
water
intake
hose
from
the
seacock. Place the end of
this
hose
into a
five
gallon bucket
of
clean fresh
water.
Before starting
the
engine,
check the
zinc
anode
found
in the primary heat exchanger
on
the engine
and
clean or replace it
as
required,
and
also
clean
any
zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where
the
zinc
anode
is
located. Clean the
raw
water
strainer.
Start
the
engine and allow
the
raw water
pump
to
draw
the
fresh
water through the system. When
the
bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine
and
refill
the
bucket with
an
antifreeze
solution slightly stronger
than
needed for winter freeze
protection
in
your
area.
Start the engine
and
allow
all
of this mixture
to
be
drawn
through
the
raw
water system. Once the bucket
is
empty,
stop
the
engine.
This
antifreeze mixture should protect the
raw
water circuit from freezing during the winter lay-up,
as
well
as
providing corrosion protection.
Remove
the
impeller from your raw water pump
(some
antifreeze mixture will accompany
it,
so
catch it in a
bucket).
Examine
the
impeller. Acquire a replacement, if
needed,
and
a cover
gasket.
Do
not
replace
the
impeller (into
the
pump)
until recommissioning, but replace
the
cover and
gasket.
Intake
Manifold
and
Thru-Hull
Exhaust
Place a clean cloth, lightly soaked in lubricating
oil,
in
the
opening of
the
intake manifold to block
the
opening.
Do
not
shove
the
cloth out
of
sight. (If it
is
not visible
at
recommissioning, and
an
attempt
is
made to start
the
engine,
you
may_
need
assistance of the servicing
dealer.
Make
a
note
to
remove
the cloth prior
to
start-up. The thru-hull
exhaust
port
can
be
blocked in the same
manner.
Engines
&
Generators
58