Installation manual
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many owners rely on their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the
off-season
or
for long periods
of
inactivity. Others prefer
to accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which follow will allow you to perform your
own lay-up and recommissioning,
or
you may use them as a
check list
if
others do the procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a lay-up and also help familiarize you with the
maintenance needs
of
your engine.
If
you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will be more than willing to
provide assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out
of
the water
or
moved from land to water, and during
storage in the cradle. The flexibility
of
the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft
or
coupling
or
both, while
the boat is taken out
or
put in the water. In some cases, the
shaft has actually been bent
by
these strains. This does not
apply to small boats that are hauled out
of
the water when
not in use, unless they have been
dry for a considerable
period
of
time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
[Propulsion
Engine]
A
50-50
solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water is
recommended for use in the coolant system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration
of
antifreeze, depending
on
the area's winter climate. Check the
solution to make sure the antifreeze protection is adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed,
drain
an appropriate
amount from the engine block and add a more concentrated
mixture. Operate the engine to ensure a complete circulation
and mixture
of
the antifreeze concentration throughout the
cooling system. Now recheck the antifreeze solution's strength.
Lubrication
System
With the engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter and fill the sump
with new oil. Use the correct grade
of
oil. Refer to the
ENGINE LUBRICATING
OIL
pages in this manual for the
oil changing procedure. Run the engine and check for proper
oil pressure and make sure there are no leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Lubricating
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
51
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top off your fuel tanks with unleaded gasoline
of
89 octane
or
higher. A fuel conditioner such as Marine Sta-Bil gasoline
stabilizer should be added. Change the element in your
gasoline/water separator and clean the metal bowl. Re-install
and make certain there are no leaks. Clean up any spilled
fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top off your fuel tanks with No.
20
diesel fuel. Fuel
additives such as
Bio-bor and Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
should be added at this time to control algea and condition
the fuel. Care should be taken that the additives used are
compatible with the primary fuel filter/water separator used
in the system. Change the element in your primary fuel fil-
ter/water separator clean the separator sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements
on
the engine and bleed the
fuel system, as needed. Start the engine and allow
it
to run
for
5-
10
minutes to make sure no air is left in the fuel
system. Check for any leaks that may have been created in
the fuel system during this servicing, correcting them as
needed. Operating the engine for 5 -
10
minutes will help
allow movement
of
the treated fuel through the injection
equipment
on
the engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close the through-hull seacock. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the seacock.
Place the end
of
this hose into a five
gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found in the primary heat exchanger on
the engine and clean
or
replace it as required, and also clean
any zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where the
zinc anode is located. Clean the raw water strainer.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump to draw the
fresh water through the system. When the bucket is empty,
stop the engine and refill the bucket with an antifreeze
solution slightly stronger than needed for winter freeze
protection in your area.
Start the engine and allow
all
of
this mixture to be drawn
through the raw water system. Once the bucket is empty, stop
the engine. This antifreeze mixture should protect the raw
water circuit from freezing during the winter lay-up, as well
as providing corrosion protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze mixture will accompany it, so catch it in a bucket).
Examine the impeller. Acquire a replacement,
if
needed, and
a cover gasket.
Do
not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until recommissioning, but replace the cover and gasket.