Installation manual
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many owners rely on their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the off-
season or for long periods of inactivity.
Others prefer to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which follow will allow you to perform your
own lay-up and recommissioning, or you may use them as a
check list if others do the procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a lay-up and also help familiarize you with the
maintenance needs
of
your engine.
If
you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will be more than willing to
provide assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be
opened up and the bolts removed when the boat
is
hauled
out
of
the water or moved from land to water, and during
storage
in
the cradle. The flexibility
of
the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft or coupling or both, while
the boat
is
taken out or put
in
the water. In some cases, the
shaft has actually been bent
by
these strains. This does not
apply
to
small boats that are hauled out
of
the water when
not
in
use, unless they have been dry for a considerable
period of time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water
is
recommended for use in the coolant system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration
of
antifreeze, depending on the area's winter climate. Check the
solution
to
make sure the antifreeze protection
is
adequate.
Should more antifreeze
be
needed, drain
an
appropriate
amount from the engine block and add a more concentrated
mixture.
Operate the engine
to
ensure a complete circulation
and mixture
of
the antifreeze concentration throughout the
cooling system. Now recheck the antifreeze solution's strength.
Lubrication
System
With
the
engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter and fill the sump
with
new
oil. Use the correct grade
of
oil. Refer to the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages
in
this manual for the
oil
changing procedure. Run the engine and check for proper
oil
pressure and make sure there are no leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Engine
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top off your fuel tanks with unleaded gasoline
of
89
octane
of
higher. A fuel conditioner ·such as STABIL gasoline
stabilizer should be added. Change the element
in
your
gasoline/water separator and clean the metal bowl.
Re-install and make certain there are no leaks. Clean
up any spilled fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top off your fuel tanks with
No.2
diesel fuel. Fuel additiyes
such as
BlOB
OR and STABIL should be added
at
this time
to
control algae and condition the fuel. Care should
be
taken
that the additives used are compatible with the primary
fuel
filter/water separator used
in
the system. Change the element
in
your primary fuel filter/water separator, if the
fuel
system
has one, and clean the separator sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements on the engine and bleed the
fuel system, as needed. Start the engine and allow
it
to run
for 5
- 10 minutes to make sure no air
is
left
in
the fuel
system. Check for any leaks that may have been created
in
the fuel system during this servicing, correcting them as
needed.
Operating the engine for 5 -
10
minutes will help
allow movement
of
the treated fuel through the injection
equipment on the engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close the through-hull seacock. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the seacock.
Place the end
of
this hose into a
five
gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found
in
the primary heat exchanger on
the engine and clean or replace it
as
required, and also clean
any zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where the
zinc anode
is
located. Clean the raw water strainer.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump
to
draw the
fresh water through the system. When the bucket
is
empty,
stop the engine and refill the bucket with
an
antifreeze
solution slightly stronger than needed for winter freeze
protection
in
your area.
Start the engine and allow all
of
this mixture
to
be
drawn
through the raw water system.
Once the bucket
is
empty, stop
the engine. This antifreeze mixture should protect the raw
water circuit from freezing during the winter lay-up,
as
well
as providing corrosion protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze mixture will accompany it, so catch it
in
a bucket).
Examine the impeller. Acquire a replacement, if needed, and
a cover gasket. Do not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until recommissioning, but replace the cover and gasket.
Cylinder
Lubrication
[Gasoline]
With the engine running, remove the flame arrester and spray
fogging oil into the open air intake. The fogging
oil
will stall
out the engine as
it
coats the valves, cylinders and spark
plugs for winter protection.
Engines & Generators
44