Installation manual
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many owners rely on their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the
off-season
or
for long periods
of
inactivity. Others prefer
to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which follow will allow you to perform your
own
lay-up
and
recommissioning,
or
you
may
use
them
as
a
check list
if
others
do
the procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a lay-up and also help familiarize you with the
maintenance
needs
of
your
engine.
If you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will be more than willing
to
provide
assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out
of
the water or moved from land
to
water, and during
storage in the cradle. The flexibility
of
the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft
or
coupling or both, while
the
boat
is
taken
out
or
put
in
the
water.
In
some cases,
the
shaft has actually been bent by these strains. This does not
apply to smaIl boats that are hauled out of the water when
not in use, unless they have been dry for a considerable
period
of
time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
[Propulsion
Engine]
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water is
recommended for use in the coolant system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration
of
antifreeze, depending on the area's winter climate. Check the
solution to make sure the antifreeze protection
is
adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed, drain
an
appropriate
amount from the engine block and add a more concentrated
mixture.
Operate
the
engine
to
ensure
a
complete
circulation
and mixture
of
the antifreeze concentration throughout the
cooling system. Now recheck the antifreeze solution's strengtb.
Lubrication
System
With the engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter and
fill
the sump
with new oil.
Use the correct grade
of
oil. Refer to the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages in this manual for the
oil changing procedure. Run the engine and check for proper
oil
pressure
and
make
sure
there
are
no
leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
in
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Lubricating
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top off your fuel tanks with unleaded gasoline
of
89
octane
or higher. A fuel conditioner such
as
Sta-Bil gasoline
stabilizer should be added.
Change the element in your
gasoline/water separator and clean the metal bowl. Re-install
and make certain there are no leaks. Clean up any spilled
fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diesel]
Top off your fuel tanks with
No.2
diesel fuel. Fuel additives
such as BiaBar and Diesel Kleen or
Cetane Boost should be
added at this time to control algae and condition the fuel.
Care should be taken that the additives used are compatible
with the primary fuel filter/water separator used in the sys-
tem.
Change the element in your primary fuel filter/water
separator,
if
the
fuel
system
has
one,
and
clean
the
separator
sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements on the engine and bleed the
fuel system,
as
needed. Start the engine and allow it
to
run
for 5 -
10
minutes to make sure no air
is
left in the fuel
system.
Check for any leaks that may have been created in
the fuel system during this servicing, correcting them as
needed. Operating the engine for 5 -
10
minutes will help
allow movement
of
the treated fuel through the injection
equipment on the engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close the through-hull seacock. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the seacock. Place the end
of
this hose into a five
gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found in the primary heat exchanger on
the engine and clean or replace it as required, and also clean
any zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where the
zinc
anode
is
located.
Clean
the
raw
water
strainer.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump
to
draw the
fresh water through the system. When the bucket is empty,
stop the engine and refill the bucket with
an
antifreeze
solution slightly stronger than needed for winter freeze
protection
in
your
area.
Start the engine and allow all
of
this mixture
to
be drawn
through the raw water system.
Once the bucket is empty, stop
the engine. This antifreeze mixture should protect the raw
water
circuit
from
freezing
during
the
winter
lay·up,
as
well
as
providing
corrosion
protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze
mixture
will
accompany
it,
so
catch
it
in
a
bucket).
Examine the impeller. Acquire a replacement,
if
needed, and
a cover gasket. Do not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until
recommissioning,
but
replace
the
cover
and
gasket.
Intake
Manifold
and
Thru-Hull
Exhaust
Place a clean cloth, lightly soaked in lubricating oil, in the
opening
of
the intake manifold to block the opening. Do not
shove the cloth out
of
sight.
(If
it is not visible at
recommissioning,
and
an
attempt
is
made
to
start
the
engine,
you
may
need
assistance of
the
servicing
dealer.
Make
a
note
to
remove the cloth prior to start-up. The thru-hull
exhaust
port
can
be
blocked
in
the
same
manner.
Engines & Generators
40