Installation manual
LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
General
Many owners rely on their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including
engines
and
generators,
for
lay-up
during
the
off-
season
or
for long periods
of
inactivity. Others prefer to
accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The
procedures which follow will allow you to perform your
own
lay-up
and
recommissioning,
or
will serve
as
a checklist
if
others do the procedures.
These procedures should provide protection for your
engine/generator during a lay-up and also help familiarize
you
with
its
maintenance
needs.
If
you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer.
He
will be more than willing to
provide
assistance.
Propeller
Shaft
Coupling
[Propulsion
Engine]
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out
of
the water
or
moved from land to water, and during
storage in the cradle.
The
flexibility
of
the boat oftens puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft or coup ling or
hath, while
the boat is taken
out
or
put
in the water. In some cases, the
shaft has actually been bent by these strains. This does not
apply to small boats that are hauled out
of
the water when
not in use, unless they have been
dry for a considerable
period
of
time.
Fresh
Water
Cooling
Circuit
A 50-50 solution
of
antifreeze and distilled water is recom-
mended for use
in
the fresh water cooling system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration of antifreeze,
depending on the area's winter climate. Check the solution to
make
sure
the
antifreeze
protection
is
adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed, drain an appropriate amount
from
the
engine block
and
add
a
more
concentrated
mixture.-
Operate the engine to ensure a complete circulation and mix-
ture
of
the antifreeze concentration throughout the cooling
system. Then recheck the antifreeze solution's strength.
Lubrication
System
With the engine warm, drain all the engine
oil
from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter and fill the sump with
new oil. Use the correct grade
of
oil. Refer to the ENGINE
LUBRICATING OIL pages in this manual for "engine oil
change",
Run the engine and check for proper oil pressure and make
sure
there
are
no
leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do
not
leave
the
engine's
old
engine
oil
In
the
sump
over
the
lay-up
period.
Engine
oil
and
combustion
deposits
combine
to
produce
harmful
chemicals
which
can
reduce
the
life
of
your
engine's
internal
parts.
Fuel
System
[Gasoline]
Top
off
your fuel tanks with unleaded gasoline
of
89 octane
or higher. A fuel conditioner such as
STABIL
gasoline
stabilizer should be added. Change the element in your
gasoline/water separator and clean the metal bowl.
Re-install and make certain there are no leaks. Clean
up any spilled fuel.
Fuel
System
[Diese~
Top
off
your fuel tanks with No.2 diesel fuel. Fuel additives
such as
BIOBOR and
STABIL
should be added at this time to
control algae and condition the fuel. Care should be taken
that the additives used are compatible with the primary fuel
filter/water seperator used in the system. Change the element
in your primary fuel filter/water seperator.
if
the fuel system
has one, and clean the seperator sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements on the engine and bleed the
fuel system, as needed.
Start the engine and allow it to run
for 5
- !O minutes to make sure no air is left in the fuel
system. Check for any leaks that may have been created in
the
fuel
system
during
this
servicing,
correcting
them
as
needed. Operating the engine for 5 -
!O
minutes will help
allow movement
of
the treated fuel through the injection
equipment
on
the
engine.
Raw
Water
Cooling
Circuit
Close the through-hull fitting. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the fitting. Place the
end
of
this hose into a five
gallon bucket
of
clean fresh water. Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found in the primary heat exchanger on
the engine and clean or replace
it
as required and also clean
any
zinc
debis
from
inside
the
heat
exchanger
where
the
zinc
anode
is
located.
Clean
the
raw
water
strainer.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump to draw the
fresh water through the system.
When
the bucket is empty,
stop the engine and refill the bucket with an antifreeze
solution
slightly
stronger
than
needed
for
winter
freeze
protection
in
your
area.
Start the engine and allow all
of
this mixture to be drawn
through the raw water system.
Once the bucket is empty, stop
·the
engine.
This
antifreeze
mixture
should
protect
the
raw
water
circuit
from
freezing
during
the
winter
lay-up,
as
well
as
providing
corrosion
protection.
Remove the impeller from
your
raw
water pump (some
antifreeze mixture will accompany it, so catch it in a bucket).
Examine the impeller. Get a replacement,
if
needed, and a
cover gasket.
Do
not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until
recommissioning,
but
replace
the
cover
and
gasket.
Intake
Manifold
and
Thru-Hull
Exhaust
Place a clean cloth, lightly soaked in lubricating oil, in the
opening
of
the intake manifold to block the opening. Do not
shove the cloth out
of
sight. (If it is not visable at
recommissioning,
and
an
attempt
is
made
to
start
the
engine,
you may need assistance
of
the servicing dealer).
Make
a
note to remove the cloth prior to start-up. The thru-hull
exhaust port can be blocked in the same manner.
Engines
&
Generators
47