Blue Jeans Machine ‘ WHITE BEWINQ MACHINE
CONTENTS 1. NAMES OF PARTS 2. ACCESSORIES 3. BEFORE SEWING Detaching Extension Table Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Changing Needle Changing Foot Bobbin Winding Inserting Bobbin Adjusting Lower Tension Drop Feed Lever Threading Upper Thread Twin Needle Threading Decorative Tucks or Designs Drawing Up Lower Thread Foot Pressure Fabric, Thread and Needle Table Pattern Setting 4.
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1. NAMES OF PARTS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. Thread guide for bobbin winding Foot pressure regulator Upper thread tension dial Face cover Thread guide for upper threading Presser foot thumb screw Presser foot Shuttle cover Top cover Bobbin winding spindle Screw hole for extra spool pin Zigzag width control Special buttonhole adjustment Stitch length dial Reverse sewing lever Pattern selection dial Free arm Drop feed lever 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.
2. ACCESSORIES ,— Felts (2 pcs.) Bobbins (3 Buttonhole foot Needles c Ordinary needles (3 pcs.) Button sewing foot N ( ‘J Bail point needle (1 pc.) Twin needle (1 pc.) Zipper foot Extra spool pin (For twin needle sewing).
3. BEFORE SEWING Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier for ordinary sewing. Detaching Extension Table Slide off, and the machine is used as a free-arm model. J To open top cover of accessory box, push open, as illustrated. Do vice-versa of above steps to at tach extension table. Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs, T-shirts, blouses, etc.
Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot controller and power cord CD Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine (* written on a plate at back of machine) * Specifications vary from country to country. Put power switch on the machine and turn on the sewing light. b Push button to turn sewing light on and off. Always switch off or unplug machine when not in use. * Specifications vary from country to country.
Changing Needle Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle. With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar. Push needle until it reaches stopper and tighten needle clamp screw firmly. Always use a straight needle with a sharp point.
Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter. Set needle in the highest position by turning haridwheel towards you. (1) Push button of holder towards you and foot will come off. (2) Position a new foot by aligning holding groove of shank with pin of foot. (3) Lower presser foot lifter so that holder catches presser foot.
Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Open shuttle cover. Open latch of bobbin case and remove case. J Release latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily.
Push back to fold handle. Open top cover. Put a spooi on spool pin. Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pretension device, and, following numbers 4 © Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool. Wind thread clockwise around bob bin several times. Push bobbin onto spindle. Holding handwheel with your left hand disengage handwheel by unscrewing stop motion knob.
Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller. Machine stops automatically when bobbin is full. Push bobbin to left, to disengage from wheel. 1 Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread. Retighten stop motion knob. ,— trouble 4c correction —10— If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open top cover and use screw driver to adjust the guide for bobbin winding.
Inserting Bobbin Place bobbin in case with thread running in direction of arrow. ) Guide thread into slot case.
Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown. At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount. To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver. Raise needle to highest position. Leave end of thread of about 10 cm (4”) from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case into hook. Release latch when bobbin case is fully inserted. J r Drop Feed Lever __j The lever is in the right side of shuttle cover.
Threading Upper Thread Raise presser foot. Set take-up lever to the highest po sition by turning handwheel towards you. Open top cover and put spool into spool pin. Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool. Thread, following numbers -®. Pass thread through guide Dthen to®. Lead thread thru either side of ten sion disc®. Hook it to lower guide to left upwards. from right 1 Thread take-up lever .
Twin Needle Threading Extra spool pin is packed in accessory tray. Screw thread extra spool pin in screw hole, place a felt and put another spool. Thread in the same way as normal threading, except at points ®, © and ®. } At point ©, pass threads separately to right and left of tension disc. At guide , pass one of threads to right guide and the other at left guide. At point ®. thread from right guide should be lead to right needle eye, and from left guide to left needle eye.
Drawing Up Lower Thread Hold the end of upper thread with left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again. Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop. Pull out both threads about 15cm (6”) and place them together under presser foot to left. NOTE: Always place thread to the back or left when starting to sew a seam. Failure to do this may cause thread jamming.
Fabric, Thread and Needle Table THREAD FABRIC NEEDLE Cotton European Mercerized Covered European Polyester Cotton Cotton Silk, Nylon 705 U.S. Size Point 15x1 Style VERY SHEER: LACE.
Pattern Setting PATTERN NAME TWIN NEEDLE PATTERN SELECTOR 4- 1-4 [11] BUTTONHOLE — 6 STRAIGHT — MW tvWWyW 7JAULAA AAi AiAJ A .
4. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown. If you need to move needle position to left side, set zigzag width control 5. Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left. * Always make sure needle is in the highest position when oper ating dial. Stitch Length Dial Set dial at indicating point ( ac cording to stitch size required. For a longer stitch, turn dial to right. For a shorter stitch, turn it to left. a For normal sewing it is set between 2 and 3.
Piace fabric under foot about 1cm (O.4) inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter. I Double Presser Foot Lifter In order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go. To reinforce seam, sew backwards to the edge of fabric by pushing down reverse sewing lever. t 1> Hold lever down for longer reverse sewing. } Release lever and commence for ward sewing, guiding fabric by hand as it is fed. Never pull material.
Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Sew reverse stitches for reinforce ment at end of seam. Draw fabric to left when sewing is finished. I Cut threads with thread cutter behind presser bar. Adjusting Thread Tension + L ‘; —-;—:i— i) .
Applications at Straight Stitch A. Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elasticity to the seam. — B. Basting/Topstltching Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is useful for temporary seams prior to fitting.
5. ZIGZAG SEWING 4- Set machine as shown. To prevent seam ends unravelling, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam. Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing. Make sure needle is in upper posi tion when you set control, and extra thread is placed to the left or rear.
6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES I Set machine as shown. I Determine Length / mark n g Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm (1/8”) for bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material. Determine Width O.3cm(1/8) diameter__ tl: Determine width according to di ameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material. I thickness } Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part a of buttonhole foot. Place material under foot so that marking of buttonhole passes through center of foot.
Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 () and sew 5-6 stitches. fl r___ -h1 ;-iL Left side:Change pattern to 2(21]). Sew left side from front to back un til it reaches end line. Remember the point of arrow so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. J Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 () and sew 5-6 stitches. E L Right side: Change pattern to 4 ([Ia) and sew right side until it reaches first bar tack. .
Buttonhole Density Adjustment Adjustment is located to right of stitch length dial. With some materials it is possible that the sides or density of a button hole will vary, it is possible to adjust or balance these sides by turning the special buttonhole adjustment to to attain a correct “+“ or balance. It is advised to always turn this ad justment to center as this may vary some of the other stitches slightly.
Cutting Buttonholes Stick a needle or pin through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting. Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter.
7. SEWING ON BUTTONS Set machine as shown. ial un Position a button and mater to left es der foot. When needle com ise Ra t. side of stitch, lower foo th so needle and adjust zigzag wid e of hol t righ to es that needle com button. I t nee Make one stitch be certain tha es. hol dle is aligned with botton’s and Run machine at medium speed s. sew 5-6 zigzag stitche is in Stop machine when needle n.
8. OVERCASTING For light weight material: Set machine as shown. Overcasting prevents edge of fabric from fraying and produces neat finish. J Sew carefully so that all stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabric. For thick and elastic material: Set machine as shown. Sew in the same way above.
9. OVERLOCKING Overlocking stitches make it possi ble to sew and overcast seams at the same time. Set machine as shown. Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew. To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop out side the edge of material. Then press flat. n some cases overlocking stitches can be used for overcasting.
___ 10. STRETCH STITCHING 10 11 12 13 The stitches shown are all used with stretch and knit fabrics. These are special utility stitches built in the machine for your quick selection.
Application of Rick-Rack hit\ViA k Topstltching/Rlck-Rack A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair. L B. Tapering/Rick-Rack The rick-rack stitch may be tapered to.form creative stems and petals of flowers, embroidered pictures and wall hangings. As in tapering the zigzag, slowly turn the stitch width dial from 0 to 5 and back to 0.
Application of Decorative Fun Patterns A. Fun stitches-Briar >>>?EJ The reverse stitch patterns produce briar designs for use on household linens and children clothes. These reverse stitch pattern can be used to sew in hems. The reverse stitch patterns can also be used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect. This is done in the same manner that lace is applied with the zigzag stitch.
11. BLIND HEM STITCH Set machine as shown. n Fold material as shown and place under foot. For a neater finish, it is preferable to baste or iron the hem beforehand. Sew carefully, so that straight stitches are made on hem edge, and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold.
right side wrong side . a Correct seam. Needle is catching edge of fold too much.
12. STRETCH SEAM I- A ball-point needle is essential. Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding. a Medium-weight fabrics Double knit, jersey. Apply elastic triple straight stitch. b Light-weight fabrics Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension. c For Very elastic fabrics Spandex (power net) Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply multiple zigzag.
13. ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown. Used for dresses, blouses skirts, trousers, bags, etc. r By using the special zipper foot, zip per sewing can be easily done. O.3cm(’/a”) a .1 wrong side (1) With right sides together, tack along seam line of the opening (2) Open the tacked seam and pull out the lower material O.3cm(½”). Place the folded edge over the right side of the zipper and tack over it. Li (3) Replace the presser foot with the zipper foot on the left of the needle.
14. SHELL STITCHING Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable. Set machine as shown. Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing. Adjust tension to 8 or 9 to form the shell effects. Always return the tension setting to normal when finishing the shell effect. Make sure needle misses raw edge of fold when it moves side ways.
15. PIN TUCKING Set machine as shown. For better appearance, use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little. For twin needle threading see p.14. Insert the quilting guide under the spring plate on the holder. Mark first line with pencil or tailor’s chalk, and sew. From second line, just sew, follow ing seam of first line using guide. Interval between seams can be adjusted by moving guide in direction of arrow.
16 QUILTING Set machine as shown. 23 Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out as you sew.
17. MENDING Patching Set machine as shown. Place the patch over the worn part. Pull thread ends toward back or left when starting sewing. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side. A A A y c A A A A A A fl+t) L. Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew two more seams on either side. A piece of gauze can be placed underneath to reinforce the rip.
Darning Set machine as shown. or Stretch fabric over the hoop to according arm free with ® sew darn. to going are you part the j S. Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced stitches, guiding material back and forth by hand. By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible.
19. APPLIQUE WORK Set machine as shown. Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out. Place cut-out on base material and baste it. Sew around outline with zigzag stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base material. To change direction at corners, or to sew very small circles, stop machine, positioning needle just away from edge of cut-out, lift press er foot and turn material. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.
Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. d To avoid lower thread being pulle . ion tens ad thre er up, reduce upp rtant For good embroidery, it is impo ad. thre and dles nee rect to use cor er upp for Use thin embroidery silk e sam of silk ner thread and a thin ad. thre r lowe for kind and color ,— Trace your design on material and center it in embroidery hoop. Made sure material is taut. Pull up lower thread by turning handwheel towards you while hold ing upper thread lightly.
20. MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satisfactory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month. / \ Cleaning Remove foot and needle. Remove needle plate. “ Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush. 4 ‘I.,’ Turn latches outwards. - 1 —44— Remove hook race cover. Remove hook. Clean hook race with a cleaning brush and a soft cloth.
z Oiling Use oil manufactured especially for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to hook where friction occurs. Replace hook and race cover care fully, turn handwheel manually to insure correct assembly. Open face cover and apply oil to points indicated with arrow. - — Be careful not to apply too much oil or it may stain your material and cause some sewing difficulty.
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