Installation Guide

ManualsBrandsWilsonart ManualsCountertop Samples2 in. x 3 in. Laminate Countertop Sample in Luna Winter with HD Mirage Finish

NECESSARY ITEMS FOR DIY

FABRICATION

What you will need to make a new laminate

countertop:

Tools (minimum requirements)

• Trim router

• Wilsonart® WA600 Adhesive

• 3” – 9” paint/adhesive roller with cover (⁄” nap)

• Flush trim router bit (carbide tips)

• 1” paint brush (china bristle) — NO

SPONGE BRUSHES

• File

• 4 – ¼” dowel rods 36” long (one for every 12” of

counter- top)

• 3” rubber J-roller

• Sanding block with 80-grit sandpaper

• Safety glasses

• Ear protection

Optional tools

• Circular saw with ﬁne tooth carbide blade

• Scoring knife

• Laminate scissors

Recommended substrates: 5/8” or 3/4” thickness

• Particle board

• Medium density ﬁberboard (MDF)

• Plywood with one “A” face

WILSONART LAMINATE

DIY FABRICATION AND INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS

Here are step-by-step directions. Read carefully before

beginning your project. If you have questions please contact

the Wilsonart Hotline at 800-433-3222. Make sure the

Wilsonart Laminate and the substrate you are covering are

clean, dry and smooth. Do not laminate over paint, varnish

or old covering.

CUTTING YOUR LAMINATE

1. On the laminate sheet, mark

dimensions ⁄” larger than the

size of the surface to be covered

(substrate) to allow for trimming

after bonding. Place a strip of

masking tape over the cut line to

prevent chipping. Mark the line on

the tape and cut through tape and

laminate at the same time when

using a scoring knife (see

photo A).

When using a circular saw, cutting

from the bottom side of the

laminate will eliminate chipping

of the decorative surface. Use a

router from the top or bottom of

the laminate when cutting.

2. Use the remaining material to

cut strips for the edges in the same manner as stated above.

LAMINATING THE EDGES

3. Using a 1” brush with WA600,

apply adhesive to the backside

of the laminate edge strips and

double coat the edge of the

substrate (see photo

B). Do not apply

adhesive to top

surface at this time.

Allow adhesive to dry.

FAB TIP: Once the adhesive is ready to bond, if any contact

is made between the back side of the laminate and the edge

of the substrate, they will bond immediately. To test the

adhesive for appropriate dry time, lightly touch the adhesive

with your ﬁnger. If the adhesive feels tacky yet does not

stick to your ﬁnger, it is ready to bond. Refer to adhesive

manufacturer directions.

4. Be very careful to align each

laminate piece with the substrate

prior to the surfaces touching.

Starting at one end of the edge,

start applying the edge strip with

excess laminate extending above

the top side of the counter. Use

a rubber J-roller to apply uniform

pressure along the entire edge

strip (see photo C). Route edge

and sand ﬂush to top of surface

(see photo D).

LAMINATING THE TOP

5. Apply the adhesive on the

laminate ﬁrst, substrate second

using your adhesive roller. (see

photos E & F). The laminate is a

non-porous product, it will only

dry from one side, the substrate

is a porous product, it will absorb

and ﬂash into the top as well. It

will dry faster. Two thin coats on

the surface are better than one

heavy coat. One hundred percent

adhesive coverage is required

(each coat). Before applying a

second coat, make sure that the

ﬁrst coat is dry. Allow adhesive on

both components to dry.

6. Position the dowel rods on the top substrate surface

approximately 12” apart,

perpendicular to the front

edge (see photo G). Position

the laminate carefully over the

substrate. Starting at one end

of the counter, start removing

the dowels one at a time while

holding the laminate in place.

7. Use a rubber 3” J-roller to apply

uniform pressure across the entire

countertop (see photo H). Apply

pressure to every inch of the

surface for a complete and lasting

bond.

8. Route o the laminate

overhangs with the router and

ﬂush trim bit (see photo I). For

inside corners, such as a cooktop cutout, start the routing

process by drilling ⁄” or greater holes in each corner. Use

each corner as the starting point

for the jigsaw process. The

radius left by the routing process

in any inside corner should

remain (see photo J). Use a ﬁle

to remove sharp edges and sharp

outside corners.

9. Clean o excess adhesive with

Wilsonart 121 Cleaner

and a clean white cloth

(Acetone is also an option).

10. Areas that cannot be routed

may be ﬁled smooth. When ﬁling

never drag a ﬁle out toward

the decorative surface of the

laminate. Doing so can result in

chipping of the color/pattern.

FAB TIP: Cutouts for sinks and

cooktops may be made with a

jigsaw and a ﬁne tooth blade. A

radius on an inside corner (minimum 1/8”) will strengthen the

corner (see photo J). Sand the cutouts smooth with a ﬁle or

sandpaper. Holes for faucets may be made with a

hole saw.

Summary of content (1 pages)

PAGE 1
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS ® Here are step-by-step directions. Read carefully before beginning your project. If you have questions please contact the Wilsonart Hotline at 800-433-3222. Make sure the Wilsonart Laminate and the substrate you are covering are clean, dry and smooth. Do not laminate over paint, varnish or old covering. CUTTING YOUR LAMINATE 1. On the laminate sheet, mark dimensions 1/2” larger than the size of the surface to be covered (substrate) to allow for trimming after bonding.